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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread is intended to be a resource for anyone wanting information on the Evo VII GT-A.

I will include information relevant only to the GTA, in this one place.

Contents:
Auto to manual conversion (Post 2)
Flashing the GTA ECU (Post 3)
Flashing the GTA ECU for a manual car (Also on Post 3)
ECU Pinouts (Also on Post 3)
Transfer box differences (Post 4)
Auto gearbox information (Post 5)
Auto gearbox oil change (Post 6)
Other differences and brochures (Post 7)
Links (Post 8)

All information here is taken from various sources on the internet and my personal experience.
This is not a 'guide' just some information which may be used for entertainment, therefore, I take no responsibility for the use of this information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Auto to manual conversion:

Parts required:
5/6 speed manual gearbox
Gearbox mounts
5/6 speed Linkage, selector & knob.



Clutch pedal & mount
Release (slave) Cylinder
Master cylinder
Brake fluid reservoir (possible to modify existing one)
Clutch pipe work



Flywheel + bolts (different length GTA/Manual)
Clutch
Release bearing



Front left drive shaft (different length GTA/Manual)


*************PIC GTA driveshaft ************* -need to source. ********************
Centre console (front part only)
Speedo connector plug (possible part number OK000 005 012)
Reverse connector plug (possible part number OK000 005 021)

Gearbox loom modifications:
There are 4 plugs, large black, small black, large grey, small grey.
The large black plug going into your gearbox is the only one we need. It has 2 rows of pins, 4 big & 6 small. The 4 big ones are the ones we are interested in.
The pins are attached to wires coloured: (1)[brown] + (2)[Black/Yellow] + (3)[Black/Brown] + (4)[Black/Yellow]

(1)+(2) are for the reverse light switch - extend to gearbox connector.
(3)+(4) are for Neutral/park sensor - the ECU won't allow you to start the engine unless in N or P, short these 2 out (or hide a switch in the cabin for an extra immobiliser).

Your GTA dash will still indicate when you are in reverse, and will still beep in the cabin.

Manual box:


Circled in Red is the speed sensor, which goes to the ECU & speedo on manual car. ***Will update how to wire to GTA soon as I can ********
Circled in Green is the mounting point for a 'mount' (the mount is needed also)
Circled in blue ***********Description****************88

Flywheel:



Circled in red are the 7 bolts that need to be sourced from a manual car (or dealer)




Clutch pedal box:


This is with the clutch pedal fitted, there is a blank in the bulkhead which has to be removed. (The large brake pedal can be swapped over too)

This pedal mount has had a spot weld also.


Now the bulkhead side of the pedal box is mounted, that leaves the top of the box. This is where it gets difficult; the manual car has a mounting position for this. It is an extra bit built into the chassis. On the GTA there is just a gap:





There are 2 options, (1) remove the entire dash (maybe will do this one day), or (2) the easier option, a large piece of metal plate, braced to the brake pedal box top mount.


Brake reservoir:

This is also the clutch reservoir, there is a protruding blank in the LHS of the plastic. Which needs drilling out, and clutch pedal header pipe goes over and clamped with jubilee clip.
Circled in red is part to be drilled out.
However, it may be easier to source a reservoir from a manual car.



Speedo:

The GTA speedo works differently to the manual car. The ECU does not take a direct input from a speed sensor as it would on a manual. It uses output &/or input shaft speed to calculate the speed, then outputs it to the speedo.
My speedo doesn't work with auto ECU, maybe the speedo sender is faulty, maybe the speedo is faulty, either way I fitted an after-market speedo Clicky for thread

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Flashing the GTA ECU

Same equipment required as for manual VII.
Using ECUflash (recent version), you (will probably) need to add 2 files to your system as follows;

Add the 'read template' for the GTA in this location;
C:\Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\read templates (or adjust if installed in a different location - this is where it is put as standard)
Click for read template

You will also need the 'XML file' added to this location;
C:\Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\evo
Click for XML file

Connect up to your ECU and 'Read' the ROM.
Make sure after you have saved the ROM that it is a file size of 512kb. If it is 256kb you have done something wrong.

Click here for a standard GTA ROM.


The GTA ECU is unique to the GTA (or so I believe), It was the first in the Evo range to use the plugs with 3 rows of pins, it has the same connectors as the VIII & IX, plus an additional one. They are, however wired up completely differently. (I have noticed a couple of other Mitsubishi cars with the same plug configuration)


Flashing the GTA ECU for use in a manual car (manual converted GTA)

I have managed to flash a Tephra ROM on my GTA ECU. *NOTE - This only applies to a GTA with a Manual conversion, using the standard GTA ECU*
I Used Tephra ROM 5.10 96260009-v5.10fix2-mods.bin, which will need the following XML file: 96260009-v5.10fix2-mods.xml (see above procedure for adding to ECUflash)

I copied most of the fields from my GTA ROM (which had a ECUtek map), including the map onto the Tephra ROM. I changed as many of the entries in the new ROM for the values in my old ROM. (including scales etc)
Mine seems to work well, of the 3 features included with the Tephra ROM, I have 2 working; "CEL (Check Engine Light) on knock", and "Valet mode" (which is why I have gone to this trouble!) I'm still experimenting though. If anyone is interested, or can make use of, here is my ROM GTA Manual 8MR ECU Tephra 5.10 with maps and limits and knock 1e.bin
I don't think it will be possible to implement the third feature of the 5.10 ROM; "No Lift To Shift" (NLTS), as this requires a clutch switch input to the ECU.

ECU Pinouts

Below is a 'pinout' of the GTA, It is still incomplete. Please forward any amendments to me.



Below is a description of the gearbox connections loom, again please forward any amendments


Here are some pictures showing the physical differences between the GTA ECU & an 8 FQ300 ECU. The GTA has 4 plugs & a longer body.




.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Transfer box

The GTA Transfer box is slightly different to the manual version.
It will, however, fit a manual car. But, a manual car transfer box will not fit a GTA unless modified.

Pic 1 shows the difference between both boxes, the shorter shafted one is the GTA


Pic 2 close up of GTA transfer box


Pic 3 close up of Manual Evo transfer box.


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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Tiptronic Gearbox information

Mitsubishi's clever INVECS transmission (it stands for Intelligent & Innovative Vehicle Electronic Control System) was first made available in the Galant over a decade ago. It has now been developed into INVECS-II, and is seen in the Mitsubishi Shogun, Grandis and the Lancer.

In simple terms INVECS-II is a computer-controlled automatic transmission which has the ability to "learn" your driving style, using its Adaptive Shift Control software. As soon as you start driving the computer begins to monitor your driving style, and after a short while sets the up and down-change points to suit, thus smoothing out progress on the road. It's almost like having a person sitting next to you who, having seen how you drive, adjusts the automatic gearbox accordingly.

For the fully automatic mode to be in operation, the gear selector is simply left in 'D'. But on the Shogun, Grandis and Lancer models, if you want to use the manual mode - which gives the driver more control over the transmission, and allows higher engine revs in each gear - then the lever is slid over to the left into another gate, which is Sports Mode.

Now, tapping the lever forward prompts an electronic up-change, while moving it back down-shifts. Effectively you have a clutch-less gear shift, but you don't need to worry about suddenly being caught out at low speed in a high gear, because when stationary the transmission automatically reverts to first.

Torque converter:


Code reads "4a" & "2B18D"


Valve body:








 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Auto Gearbox oil change

Oil e.g. Amsoil Sythetic ATF - www.opieoils.co.uk The service manual says 8 quarts, (7.8 Litres) I still have 1qt left and used 1qt to flush


Washer for sump plug. I used a 16mm Dowty seal, as they are reusable and seal without too much torque. (pictured)


Tools (I used)

socket and ratchet set, biggest 24mm
Funnel
Ramp (I used scaffold boards screwed together as my ramps were too steep-not as ropey as it sounds!)
Axle stands (double safe!)
Chock for rear wheels (triple safe!)
Oil catch tray (washing up bowl)
Rags
Latex/nitrile gloves

Procedure
Drive 10 miles to warm up gearbox.
Jack up - I used ramps (pictured)
I removed the plastic tray under the engine bay, not sure if it was required - but I was doing other things too.

Drain on the side bolt, 24mm hex bolt. (pictured)


Internal filter should be replaced but only when the sump pan is removed.

Wait a while for it to drain (do engine oil and filter?)

Replace cleaned plug - new washer (detailed above)
Remove the hose that goes to the radiator. I split one hose on a join and aimed both ends into my oil bucket. (used an oversized hose and slipped it over existing hose and rested it in bucket)

Put 1 qt in the gearbox. I did this via the dipstick with a very small funnel and was very patient! (I have since been told there is a filler under the battery somewhere)
Start engine and let fluid pump out of the removed hose, stop engine when fluid stops.
Repeat until fluid comes out same colour as went in. I only used 1 qt of oil.
Fill to spec. Replace filler cap.
To check the level

Start the car; let it warm up to operating temp. Go for a drive, since gearboxes warm up slower than engines.
Park the car on a level surface, put on handbrake.
Select neutral (N)
Select D
Select N
Select R
Select N
Basically work it through the gears
Check the dipstick level.
Top up as necessary.

All the steps with the shifting are necessary so that the torque converter fills up with fluid. If this step isn't taken, you will NOT read your fluid right, the level will be very high. Total capacity is supposed to be 8 quarts.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Click for GTA Brochure (This bad boy took some searching for!)
Click for Evo7 Brochure

Cams are labelled as:
Inlet Cam (with no slot in end), 1k30 on shaft, 202151037 on end.
Exhaust Cam (with slot in end), 1L12 on shaft, 202152314 on end.


Radiators are different, GTA has 2 more out/in-lets:



Also addition of auto box cooler:




GT-A VIN CT9A-010xxxx

GTA Differences to the other VIIs

(Other model EVO 7/8/9 differences HERE - Thanks 'youngsyr'

As VII GSR, plus:
Low spoiler with LED brake light (large spoiler or no spoiler options)
No bonnet vents
INVECS-II Sport Mode 5A/T transmission
GTA Badging
15GK compressor housing
9.0 turbine housing
Slightly detuned engine (272 bhp)
Revised front bumper
Centrally located number plate
Vibration dampening steel oil pan
Steel intercooler piping
Electric wing mirrors
Automatic headlights
Choke-pipe in back box
HIDs + fog lamps
Clear indicator lenses
Clear rear lights (inc. indicator lens)
White instrument dials with revised layout including drive selected
Instrument dial bezels, shift selector boot ring & door handles are finished in chrome
Mitsubishi steering wheel incl. mounted shift selector
Centre console incl. auto gear stick
Blue pearl dashboard trim, shift selector & window switch panel
Blue stitching in seats, gear knob & hand brake
Larger seats
Adjustable arm rest with cup holders
Sound insulation in dashboard, floor console, door trim & floor carpet
Lower sash weather strip added to improve door sound insulation
Altered suspension geometry & steering
Matt finish wheels
Leather seats optional
No SAS
225/45Z17 tyres
Alloy wheels same 17-inch as GSR, with a special lustre finish
Radiators are different, GTA has 2 more out/in-lets

Choice of six body colours: Deep Blue (pearl) and Light Gold (metallic) - two new Mitsubishi colours - as well as Silky White, Queens Silver, Black (pearl and Wine Red (metallic)
 

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I didnt see this difference mentioned here but the radiator is different in gt-a and gsr. Worth to mention in my opinion. :)

MR464612 is GSR radiator, http://www.akadia.ru/_catalog-images/mitsubishi/japan_images/0140010-D00042.gif
MR968734 is GT-A radiator, http://www.akadia.ru/_catalog-images/mitsubishi/japan_images/0230310-D00013.gif

GT-a´s radiator also carries transmission oil thru it. Inlet and outler are located under the radiator and from there oil flows to oil cooler in passenger side fender. There is no such inlet/outlet in manual transmission evo. I recon manual cars have intercooler water spray reservoir located where automatic gearbox oil cooler is. Gt-a has no water spray.

If you need a new radiator for your gt-a here´s one option: http://www.carcooling.co.uk/index.php?p=product&id=84872&parent=3796&is_print_version=true
 

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Similar to the VR4 auto setup, with the InvecsII they use the same cooler, a sperate gearbox oil cooler is an upgrade especially if track use is intended.

Nads, some excellent info there, am I right in thinking the GTA ECUflash will translate across to the Airtrek?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
am I right in thinking the GTA ECUflash will translate across to the Airtrek?
I have heard of people frying their Airtrek ECU by doing this, I believe there is 2 or 3 pin out differences on the ECU. I am trying to finish the GTA pinout diagram & would like to find an Airtrek one to compare with.

This russian site has most of mitsubishi models in. Even gt-a!
Just enter your vin-code and follow the pictures. Its in russian but still very, very handy site and definetely worth a bookmark.
Will have a look, cheers!
 
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