Lancer Register Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, working on the Evo over the b/h Monday...a few Q's!

What Oil do people use? I use Mobil 1 Motorsport Fully Synthetic 15w-50
Fitting a replacement clutch (standard as its half the price of AP and amp; lasts 3/4 just as long as long as U dont abuse it) NE tips on fitting? Im worried about the flywheel 2...NE help here would be much appretiated!
Getting the alignment done as fitted Eibach lowering springs. NE1 can advise on settings?
Changing brake pads and amp; brake fluid to it advisable?
What about ARP con rod bolts? What does it take to fit them and amp; 4 how much?
Where can i get 3 exhaust gaskets?

and amp; finally...NE1 near Horsham, West Sussex with an Evo?

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I use AMSOIL 10W30.

Sorry can't really help too much but you have mail with something that may help ;) I believe that more often than not the flywheel will need grinding or replacing as it does seem to get some stick.

Geometry for lowered car
I think you are limited with the minimum camber on the front (and back) if you lower the car. Don't expect to get less than -2° camber on the front. Toe-in of 1mm all round seems to work for me.

Brake fluid
I have been doing a lot of research on brake fluid lately for the FAQ's and I will be going for Motul RBF600 (DOT 4) fairly soon, it will make a good comparison against AP Ultra 5.1 (DOT 5.1) which I have been running for the past 10,000 miles. DOT 5.1 does have a lower viscosity so it may well be better for ABS systems on the GSR than the DOT 4 spec fluids but then again the Motul has better boiling point performance, both wet and dry. The factory spec is DOT 3 or 4 so it should be OK. I suppose you could go for Castrol SRF but @ £40 per litre it is a bit of overkill especially when Motul @ £13 per litre has a better dry boiling point (by a huge 2°C!). Nothing can beat SRF on the wet boiling point though, for example AP Ultra 5.1 has a dry boiling point the same as Castrol SRF's wet boiling point!!!!!

Not sure on the ARP bolts and exhaust gaskets. I know that you need 'special' sealant for the sump that takes 24 hours to cure before refilling with oil.

I am in the North Hampshire area so not far off, I will also be under my Evo this weekend, Powerflex bushes to go on the front and the rear if I get around to it. Next weekend hopefully the front hubs and brakes.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dark Destroyer

Cannot answer a lot but here's a few points. Regarding oil, the Mobile 1 15w-50 is one of the few oils I would use. Castrol RS 10w60 is my prefered oil.

Regarding the brakes, I bow to HH6's research but would ask what you are trying to achieve? Is it concerns oabout boiling fluid or are you trying to improve pedal feel? If it is the later, have you got braided hoses and a brake master cylinder support bracket. They would make a big difference.

Regarding the ARP con rod bolts, how much power have you got or are you planning on. Before deciding to do this, which isn't a difficult job, do a search and read peoples views. Then make your own choice. I believe that the bolts themselves are only about £50.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
(standard as its half the price of AP and amp; lasts 3/4 just as long as long as U dont abuse it)

Dark Destroyer if that was you down Boxhill the other day I think you should go down the

A.P. or some other make on the clutch front. Especially if you continue racing every


See you on the 7th.

1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.