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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ahve an EVO VI GSR with Stage 1.

I am tempted by the Ralliart ECU, Intercooler Piping kit, induction piping and strengthend conrod bolts.

Is this what I should go for, or is there better stuff on the market? Aftermarket ECU's etc. I have heard bad things about Power Engineering etc, what do you guys/gals tink?

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
What bad things have you heard about Power Engineering?

I hav only heard good things and if you read the fuel cut out problems and other threads, you will see the limitations of the RalliArt chip.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A very good ECU is the MOTEC M48. It's totally remappable, you can have the anti-lag system http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > , run a lot of boost with the necessary fuel, etc. The only downside is the price, approx £1500.

I have the Ralliart Sports ECU with a smaller restrictor, it's good, no pbs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Adamski,
Forget the rumours , go for the PE ECU remap , yes to the conrod bolts , everyone uses the ARP bolts so have them fitted at PE if u decide to use them.
There are alternatives to the Ralliart piping kits which are expensive for what they are , I have used the HKS version on the intercooler which is as good but lower cost , although it's not red!!
Also , fit an HKS super sequential dump valve , this will improve response and sounds OUTSTANDING
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here in italy all evo6 group N run with TDD Walbro ecu, there is a specific one for evo6,it can command the water spray automatcally and have the ALS system if you want it!!!!
Next year Gr N world champion Gustavo Trelles run his evo with TDD, it cost around 1000 Euro.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't go for the PE remap if you really want to tune the car. I've got it and against to what I've said before, I'm not happy with it. I have fuel cuts and this is at boost levels over 1bar. And let me tell you another story about their expertise :
I bought their lowering spring set, hoping it would improve the handling (it actually made it worse), but after about four months it started rubbing against my wheelarch (when cornering hard) forming a massive hole. After months of complaints (they had a look at the car several times) they put it down to my car not being straight, because of a crash that I had. Everything had been renewed, so I was a little dubious and asked them to put the standard suspension back in and measure the car. I drive my car there one day, only to go and pick it up the next day and find that it was rubbing on the inner side of the other wheelarch and making all sorts of weird noises (with the standard springs). A monkey could have set the car up in a better way. I was ####ed off, especially as I had to drive to Germany that day and had to do the journey in a Diesel Shogun instead. So, they measure the car and find out that there is no problem with it and manage to set it up so it can be driven and that is the last time they will work on my car. I got my money back for the springs, but had to pay the labour, which was not very cheap. Since then I've been using a WRC mechanic for maintenance and tuning, because I prefer someone who knows their arse from their elbow to work on my car. The point is, don't get ripPEd off!! The PE sticker that I got from them during better times is now stuck to my rubbish bin... I've also heard a lot of bad things about them from other people, but they should come forward themselves, if they wish. And back to the original question: I'll be getting a Motec ECU as soon as I have the money, so if anyone is interested in a PE remap, please send me a mail, otherwise I'll throw it in the PE-bin.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Adamski..........I can recommend the EvoLink ECU as an alternative, mapped by Bob Rawle. This is a programmable ECU so can be mapped exactly to your engine and modifications, and to your specific requirements in terms of power and torque. In my conservative configuration mine runs about 330 bhp and 320 lbs/ft torque as a guess with a straight through exhaust and induction kit. Dump valve, wastegate actuator, boost solenoid, and piping all remain as standard.

My car has covered about 10,000 miles with the ECU now including 3 trackdays. I have never had a fuel cuts or seen knock at all. Unlike the Ralliart ECU once boost has peaked, boost remains constant whether at 3500 rpm or 7,000 rpm. The Ralliart boost seems to tail off towards the redline (according to RR boost graphs).

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Might want to try the Apex'i Power FC ECU for the Evo VI. It's got a base program so you can run it without tuning, you can adjust all ECU parameters (fuel map, ignition map, boost setting etc) and costs half the price of a MoTec.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Michael K

What the #### did you expect from lowering springs??????????
If the springs are shorter, the damper will be too long for it.
If the springs are the same length, then they will have to be softer.
Therefore: FORGET SPRINGS
Get a proper suspension set up with gas shoch absorbers and the right springs (between 5 and 6 kg/mm2).
Springs are for tuning/aestetics, shock absorbers for efficiency.

Where is the Italian guy with the TDD something ECU? Anybody heard of this ECU before?

Claudius

PS: BTW, Mickael, did you get a brocket?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Dudus! (Claudiushttp://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >)

If you want some informations about the TDD,why don't you ask to your Italian friends[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >?
Maybe they know something about it!

So, When are all the parameters going to be good enough for you to go and pick up your car in holland?
What are you waiting for to order the parts?
....................LOADING..............................LOADING............................
When you drive your evo vi you are qiet fast considering the weight of all that useless stuff,the long ratio gearbox and the standard(LOL)exhaus.
But when you have to go for some parts or to pick up your car that is just waiting for you,
you became really slow!

So will your tommi edition be really fast,or you are going to have only 450/500bhp,as you scared about the fuel consumption?

OOPPPPPSS,don't forget.... AYC!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Michael K

I have also had the Power Engineering re-map and lowered springs in my un-warped EVO V1 and cannot sing their praises enough.

Your bad experiences appear to be down to your car and not their workmanship.

I have never experienced fuel cuts and the performance on 95RON fuel has been nothing less than spectacular.

Their springs have performed far better than the originals with no rubbing of the wheel arches.

I am sorry to hear of your problems, but think that it is unreasonable to put the blame at PE’s door.

And before anyone asks, I have no financial or other connection with PE and am another paying customer like yourself.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Claudius,

I've got a Proflex suspension now, and I know it was stupid to put springs in. Anyone who says that PE lowering springs improve the handling obviously don't really know how a car should handle. I'm still contemplating whether to buy a broquet, it sure is a great product http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/Happy.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| middle >!!!

Zippy,

what boost do you run your ECU on? I've got a boost controller and DO experience fuel cuts. And believe me it IS their workmanship, but then you seem to happy to be ripped off. Ask around what other companies charge per hour and how long it takes for them to complete a job and then you will understand. My WRC mechanic charges 35 quid and it takes him half the time to do the jobs better. I know of other companies that only charge 25 quid and are supposed to be quite good. Ah, yes, like I said PE measured my car and had to admit that this was not what caused the problem. Why did they give me my money back then?? Each to his own...
 
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