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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everybody,

Need some help here. I'm looking to buy an Evo VI soon. For some reason, the price is hell of a bargain. Therefore, I can't help being suspicious that the car might be Evo V facelifted to Evo VI. I would appreciate some tips on how to identify them apart. What should I look for that could help me distinguish original VI and V. Thanks in advance. Have a nice day.

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It'll cost .
No one in there right mind would up grade an E5 bodily to an E6.
E5 much better looking :)
Don't know any one that has done it would do it ,so pretty safe .just look at the specs .based on look only .If yor getting one direct from japan then could be a lancer dressed up ,better stick with recommendation of suppliers from this board .tried and trusted.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Easiest way is to look at the chassis number on the engine bulkhead:
Evo V will be CP9A-0000001 onwards
Evo VI will be CP9A-0100001 onwards

A few obvious, easy to check differences apart from the bodystyling and chassis numbers:
Evo VI had its Windscreen Washer bottle relocated to the boot (left hand kick panel) and a seperate Intercooler spray bottle under the bonnet. The Evo V has a single combined affair under the bonnet with nothing in the boot.
The thermostat housings are completely different between the 2 models. The water inlet to the thermostat on the Evo VI comes from a small 'T' piece from a horizontal tube running underneath the thermostat housing. The Evo V water inlet to the thermostat is bolted onto the right hand side of the thermostat.
The front suspension is different in that the Evo VI has a 'link plate' on the lower suspension arm connecting it to the steering knuckle ball joint. The Evo V lower arm connects directly onto the steering knuckle ball joint.

These are probably the easiest to spot differences but there are quite a few more that are not so obvious. Oh don't forget to have a look underneath the boot lid as there will be obvious signs of the fixing holes for the Evo V rear spoiler being filled in.

Personally I doubt if anyone would change an E5 into an E6 as there is little price difference but you have ask why is it so cheap though!

Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Around this region, it's quite common for shops to do engine transplant and serious modification. They even converted Lancer MX to E4/5/6 and at a glance, they look really sharp and real!

Therefore, I have to be cautious. We have what we called half-cut all over the place and they are easily available and fairly cheap! But thanks for your posting, I appreciate it man. And one more thing. I kinda agree with you. That E5 is better looking than E6. I like that double pane rear wing on E6 but that bulging on the front bumper looks really weird. Cheers.

Heave Ho Six:
Actually, that's what I've been looking for.....chassis number. Thanks a lot for your info, you seem to know a lot about all this. Are you a mechanic? I will note these down and take it with me when I inspect the car soon.

Like I said, these half-cuts are easy to get and even bumpers and virtually anything that you want to do the facelift, they can source it for you. Therefore, it's very possible thing to do. Maybe in UK things are different and there's no worry but we have to be careful when it comes to genuiness and originality of cars here. Not to mention stolen cars and illegal engine swaps.

Yeah, how come it's so cheap?? Perhaps I should consider the fact that maybe this particular car has been wrecked before! Minor dent on the shell I can compromise but when chassis got hurt, that's not good! Any tips on inspecting the chassis, to see whether it has been damaged?

Thanks a lot, both of you! Have a nice day.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Humble .

Where are you located?
Ref was mainly for Uk ,but if you have alot of cut aand shut work shops where you are then guess be carefull ,I have seen some very good E4 body kits on protons fron the US sites and they are good.
But as HH6 sais ,chassis number ,vin plate ,documentation .All can be falsified but its looking in the boot for re spraying ,door and front roor pillars for seems /mis aligned panels .
If its yellow then the 6 never came in yellow ,that would be a silly one.
There are quite a few differences but what you want is ,physical differences.
If the engine and chassis number don't match on the paperwork then ,well you take an inspecter with you .or buy from some one you know.

Discussion Starter · #6 ·

I'm in South East Asia, where half-cuts from Japan are abundant. Tax to bring in Evo is still high but when half-cuts (literally means a front half of a car) are brought in as a scrap metal, the tax become significantly low. So, importers bring in virtually anything from Daihatsu Mira L200 to full line of VTec and performance engines like Evo and Skyline as well. In fact, there are a few shops that carry Continental like BMW and Alfa!

I know that I have to be extra careful in this case. That's why I joined this forum and seek advise and tips from you guys, who obviously know more about Evo. This is one hell of a bargain and if the car is genuine, it would be such an excellent catch for me, know what I mean? With all the tips and info from you guys, I'm quite confident I will not be conned. Wish me luck and I will sure update you all after I see the car soon.

Thanks, and have a nice day.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Be very careful! I didn't realise you were talking about half-cuts which we call cut 'n' shuts over here. Knowing the chassis number will be no use to you in that case but what you need to look at is possible areas where the 2 halves of the cut 'n' shuts are welded together. Usually this is on the top or half way down the A pillars. Its should be fairly easy to pull off or at least prise out the A pillar grey plastic trim and check behind it for signs of welding or overspray. Check the sills and floor by lifting the carpets and have a good look underneath. It is not always the A pillar area where they are joined and can be further back but that means a continuous weld is required across the roof which is not really favourable. Make sure all the doors open and close correctly and check for consistant panel gap widths.
Checking fully underneath is probably the best bet, be very wary of any continous welded joins as spot welding is the norm. Try and find somewhere that looks unmolested and see how the joints are made up (spot welds and seam sealant thickness) and then compare it to a suspect join. The joins will probably be well hidden with seam sealer and underseal so some proding and probing maybe required. Christ you could right a whole book on this subject alone.
Above all be very careful!

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You could get an Evo front welded to a BMw arse and then Claudius would love it ,hair dressing mean mobile.OH yeah chop the roof off !
Humble watch out for EVO convertables ,nice touch though:)

Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to see the car today. Wish me luck!

Shorty and HH6, thanks again for all the tips.


Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The original Ralliart VI in the UK - white one on stand at Autosport 99 was a V with a VI body kit as they couldn't get hold of a complete car quick enough.

When he talks about half cuts he doesn't mean cut and shuts but buying the front half of a car for parts - very common in Australasia. An easy way to re-engine any car as the donor half cut has all loom,ecu,rad,intercooler etc. Not like these cowboy rip off merchant jap engine shops in Uk which charge a fortune for shite without even the turbo (oh dat's anuvva 300 quid mate! [for a turbo which barely rotates with all the crud inside it!] and we've jetwashed it mate- so it's all clean on the outside but rusty as F**k inside).

BTW HH6 have you seen the latest Coordsport sale with cheap evo 6 complete engines!

Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lightspeed: Thanks for shedding some light. I didn't know the difference between the two. But, like HH6 said, if they did weld the halfcut to make one complete car, then the chassis number will tally coz in most cases, the welding spots would be way back. I've seen they welded the bottom part just behind front seat but the roof and upper part are welded near the A-pillar.

Let's say there's a front half cut of an E6 complete with intercooler and everything and there's a rear half of E4/5, which front half had been sold prior to this, then they could weld it together and change to double pane wings and there you go.....a fake E6! border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > In this case, checking for welding spots and signs alike could help figuring it out.

Didn't get to see the car today, hopefully tomorrow.

Have a nice day:)
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