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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gwaldo's
Evo IV Restomod


Insta: @gwaldo_1​
So here goes...

Car imported into the UK in 2004. Purchased by me Jan 2011 with roughly 47k Miles on the clock.

Starting Point:
  • Tidied up bodywork
  • Removed original IV engine and fitted replacement IX engine including manifolds & 80 series turbo.
  • Fitted Hydra Nemesis EMS 2.5
  • Fitted upper & Lower HKS hardpipes
  • Fitted R-spec oil temp, pressure and boost gauges
  • Replaced worn Ralliart topmount O/S/F
  • Replaced HKS EVC with Greddy Profec-B
  • Fitted F&R Upper strut braces
  • Engine dress up inc: Polished manifold cover, Tegiwa stainless fixing kit, Tegiwa battery tie, Carbongoodies Mivec cam cover & Ralliart plug cover, red conduit and silicone hose, neverneverman cam sensor heat shield.
  • Rear suspension recall work
  • Front end tidy: Inc fresh mesh, new number plate & new fixings.

I'm no Evo guru or car mechanic and I certainly don't claim to be. I'm sure I'll be met with plenty of issues along the way but fingers crossed the wealth of knowledge on this forum will see me through :smthumbup

My intentions (Revised 14/11/12):

  • Completely strip underside and protect, re-seal and paint.
  • Replace all steel F&R suspension arms with 5/6 alloy arms and fit aftermarket bushes.
  • Refurbish drive-train.
  • Replace wheel bearings.
  • Remove AYC diff and fit a LSD.
  • Remove ABS and install bias control on the rear.
  • Replace Ralliart coilovers with a fast road/track day alternative.
  • Remove A/C, de-clutter, deep clean engine bay and wire-tuck/tidy.
  • Engine build (2lt long rod)
  • Body work + arch work and full respray.
  • Fit harness bar or possibly a bolt-in cage.
  • On completion; full geometry setup & mapping

Update: 29/06/19
Spec/Parts List

Engine: 2.0ltr Long Rod Mivec
  • OEM 4G63 crank
  • Oliver I-Beam Extreme Conrods 156mm
  • Mahle Pistons 85.50mm
  • ACL Race Bearings
  • ARP Main Studs
  • H11 Head Studs
  • Cosworth Head gasket
  • Balance Shaft Delete
  • Stock Valves
  • Supertech Dual Valve Spring and retainer Set
  • GSC S1 cams 268/268
  • Tomei Adjustable Cam Gear
  • OEM Water Pump
  • OEM Oil Pump
  • Hel 19row Oil Cooler
  • Kiggly Racing HLA Pressure Reg
  • Dual Mishimoto sealed catch can setup
  • Ralliart 76° Thermostat
  • SFS Rad Hoses
  • Koyo Radiator
  • Ralliart 1.3bar Rad Cap
  • Honda CBR Coolant Expansion bottle
  • 14" Spal Slimeline Fan
  • Ralliart Engine Mount Bushes
  • New Oil Sump
  • Tomei Slicing & Baffle Kit
  • Fluidampr Crank Pulley with ARP bolts

Turbo & Intake:
  • Evo IX 80series Turbo
  • Uprated Oil Feed & Return Lines
  • Ross Sport 3" Intake Pipework
  • K&N Airfilter
  • HKS J-Pipe
  • HKS Intercooler Pipework modified straight 2.5" + Tial Flange
  • Tial Q 50mm BOV
  • Stock Throttle Body
  • Stock Intake Manifold
  • Allisport Intercooler

Exhaust:
  • JMF Prostock Stock Frame Exhaust Manifold
  • C-tec modular 3" elbow
  • C-tec modular 3" downpipe
  • C-tec custom 3" de-Cat
  • Custom True 3" cat-back exhaust
  • DEI Titanium Thermal Heat Wrap
  • Torque Solutions exhaust mounts

Fuel:
  • Hardwired Walbro 255lph
  • AN -6 Braided Feed Line
  • 6mm ID Braided Return Line
  • In-line Torques Fuel Filter
  • Stock Fuel Rail
  • Stock FPR
  • Injector Dynamics 725cc

Electronics:
  • Link G4+ Storm Black Edition
  • Custom Sequential COP Bosch Ignition system
  • Greddy Profec B Spec-II
  • Prosport Stepper Touch Oil Temp, Pressure & Boost Gauges
  • AEM AFR Gauge with Bosch sensor
  • Custom engine loom with Mil-Spec connectors
  • Bosch Knock sensor

Drivetrain:
  • Evo IV GSR 5 Speed box
  • Evo VI LSD Transfer Box
  • Reinforced linkage brackets
  • Solid Shifter Bushes
  • Solid Shifter Base Bushes
  • Braided Clutch Line
  • Exedy Hyper Twin Plate Clutch & flywheel + ARP bolts
  • Solid Propshaft Bushes
  • Ralliart & Powerflex Diff Bushes
  • Quaife Rear ATB Helical LSD

Suspension & Steering:
  • Ohlins DFV R&T (Re-valved by Aurok for the Evo 4/5/6 sprint & track)
  • C-tec/Aurok Top Mounts
  • Cusco 3 point Front Strut Brace
  • Ultra Racing3 point Fender Braces
  • Aluminium Evo5/6 Suspension Arms
  • Full Ralliart Bush set + Some Powerflex and Polybush
  • SuperPro Caster Increase bushes
  • OEM Front ARB
  • 24mm X heavy duty Whiteline Rear ARB
  • OEM front & rear droplinks
  • Custom braided PAS line
  • Custom Setrab 7 row PAS cooler setup
  • Work Wheels Emotion 11R Matte Black 17x9.0 +18 (9.3kgs)
  • Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 235/40/17
  • Taper Pro Alloy 25mm Spacers
  • ARP Extended Wheel Studs
  • Muteki SR48 Lightweight Steel Wheel Nuts

Brakes:
  • Fully Refurbished F&R Brembos
  • PF Floating Front Discs
  • Carbotech XP8 Front Pads
  • Carbotech XP8 Rear Pads
  • Grooved Rear disc
  • SS Braided Brake Lines
  • SS Braided through-car Brake Lines
  • Tilton Rear Brake Proportioning Valve
  • Motul RBF660 Fluid
  • Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper

Interior:
  • Flocked interior Trim
  • Nardi-Personal Steering Wheel
  • NRG Short Quick-release steering boss
  • AMS gear knob
  • Lifeline extinguisher
  • Cobra Suzuka Pro Bucket Seats
  • Custom low position seat mounts
  • TRS Clubman Harnesses
  • Lifeline 1.75ltr AFFF Extinguisher
  • Safety Devices Rear Roll-cage with Harness bars

Other:
  • Beatrush Laile Underpanel
  • Attain cooling panel
  • Attain carbon exhaust shield
  • Custom fibreglass rear diffuser setup
  • Custom carbon fibre sill extensions
  • Bosch 054 boot mounted Battery
  • Custom fibreglass wide arches
  • Lightweight N/S Support
  • Custom Aluminium front Splitter
  • ABS/AYC Delete
  • A/C Delete
Sadly due to work commitments this build is going to take me a very long time but I will persevere. :smthumbup

Please excuse the poor camera quality. It's only temporary.

Some before shots












Regards
Will
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Up on axle stands:

Horrible waxoyl.


Bumpers off

I'll be either removing the aluminium splitter and replacing it with a custom carbon one or have it powdercoated black.

Shabby oil cooler


Arches not looking too bad :rolleyes:






Rear end stripped.
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Fuel tank, car has been standing for along time at some point, the space between the fuel tank and shell was full of nuts, acorns and sh*t, literally :crackup: (This is the tank brushed off)


Ridiculously heavy steel arms and worn OE bushes. Plus the remains of ABS/AYC sensor.


AYC diff anyone?


Got my work cut-out stripping this lot back.


Moving along nicely, then, hidden behind side skirt on N/S/R was this.
Edit: After further investigation it becomes clear that the N/S/R wing has been completely replaced likely due to accident damage. Now whoever carried out the repair failed to seal the panel seems correctly and also made a complete hash job of welding the sills back together, hense the reason moisture has made its way inside the sills and caused rusting on the unprotected steel of the replacement panel. It's a shame really as apart from this the underside is great shape.


After some probing and slight cutting you can see where the replaced quarter was poorly joined with the original body.


My intention is to aquire a replacement sill section and have the rotten area cut-out and replaced.
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Time to start stripping back the Waxoyl, paint and rust.

Right tool for the job and all that..


By far the worst effected area.


After a good strip down all the surface rust is removed leaving just slight pitting which will be dealt with prior to painting and sealing.


50/50 :blah:


Under the underseal:smthumbdo



Getting there...


Surface almost cleared ready for metal treatments
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Check the inner sill of the rear wheel arch, they go there loads :(
It's not bad at all surprisingly. Just a slight bit of surface rust that'll come right off.


Once finished stripping the rear/boot section back to bare metal I de-greased the entire area and gave it two treatments of Metal Blast over the course of 24hrs to etch the metal and kill off any remaining hidden rust.

My paint of choice was Rust Bullet Automotive (Same paint Coskev used on his V), comes highly recommended and easy to use. This paint is badass and hard as nails. Don't get this on bare skin!

After two coats. A total of 4 coats will be applied followed by 2-3 applications of topcoat area dependant.


Awesome stuff.
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How hard was it to get the bearing/flange out the hubs?
Was a pain, jury rigged two chocks of wood and sat the hub on them, Used what must have been a 60mm socket and a copper hammer to knock them out. Hit it like you mean it type of thing. No damage to the bearings. :smthumbup
 

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after the Rust Bullet what do you put on after because im going to be doing under my car.....looking sweet fella

cheers stewart
 

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Fanboy
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1,892 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Entirely upto you. You don't need to topcoat it if you don't want to, its tough stuff! Topcoats however need to be applied within a time frame, if you refer to their website it will tell you all you need to know.
 

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bit of OT ,but what make wheels /size/offset and tyre size?

looking good sofar

one day ill prolly have to do the same.
 

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i was going to scrap all mine off and coat it up with waxoil.ive got a tin off waxoil all ready so i might get some rust bullet and do that first
 

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Thats a nice bit of work you are doing there lad,will be worth all the heartache when its finnished......
 
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