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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am interested in buying an EVO I but would like some info on things to look out for when buying one, such as common problems and places to check for rust etc etc.
I would also like to know about service intevals for the cars and how easy parts like oil filters are to source for the car. Any help and other relavant info you can think of will be greatly appreaciated.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi,
from my experience with an evo1, (I've had mine about 9 months),
some things to look for might be -
1. Gears crunching - they seem a bit prone to this, mine was made worse by a rubber bush between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder - watch that as well.
2. Top wishbone Rubber bushes in the rear suspension seem to wear at higher mileage. Don't know how much they are to replace - I haven't had them done yet. Causes knocking from the rear of the car.
3. Water pump may start seeping at higher mileages - small hole below pulley. I think the part was about £90 from Mitsubishi. A Galant 2.0 GTi pump fits.

Other stuff:
I have read a lot of owners say their cars' hydraulic valve lifters rattle. Mine do to. They seem to have got better since using thicker synthetic oil. The oil filter used is also for a Galant 2.0 GTi.

A problem that affects quite a few Mitsubishi cars of 1989 - 1994 vintage (so that obviously includes evo 1's) is that some components in their ECU's are prone to failure causing them to stall or stop running completely. Check out www.dsm.org (US website concerning related models).
This has happened to mine, but the fix suggested has not worked (although it is supposed to work in most cases) and so I have probably got an unexpected £600 bill soon. (See Wanted on this website).

Body panels may be available from sources other than Mitsubishi / Coordsport as I believe the evo1 shaped lancers (although not evos) were imported into europe. I also think some panels from the similarly shaped Protons may fit.

Well that's my 2 peneth worth. Hope it helps a bit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
gear Syncro's seem weak.
MY rear anti-roll bar links need replacing - the rear suspension creaks. Not expensive but you need to watch out for things like this. i suspect it is becuase UK roads are much rougher than Jap roads, and the cars pretty stiff.
Again, tappet noise on startup - should go away though after a very short time.

Check usual stuff (oil leaks on cam cover), condition of oil on dip-stick - (feel it). Check in oil filler cap for any gunk. (should be none)
Check what the water in the radiator looks like - Nice and clean, with antifreeze.
Also, i found that if there is problem/potential problem with the head gasket/cooling system you can do this : when engine is cold, start car and run for 30 secs or so. then stop and remove gap. if there is aproblem the water may spill out.
It will do this if it is warm, but if the water has not got warm the presure is not due to the cooling system but becuase a combustation leak is presurising the system.
(Had this fault on my old Lotus)
Check all the electrical buttons work.
Check the chassis rails for any bends/buckles/creases incase of accidents.
And check door fits, I saw a few GTI-rs with misaligned doors - which made me worry why.
Check condition of raditor fins (quite hard as intercooler is partly in the way)
Check power steering fluid, shoudl be clean. If that is dirty or very low could be a problem.
make sure turbo hoses/water hoses aren;t perished/damaged.
Rust..hm difficult as if it is direct from Japan it shoudl be failry clean. Don;t know of any common areas. Although the mounting points for the rear trailing arms looks like it would be a point to check. The bottom of the car is realitivly smooth so not to many water traps.
When/if you do get one I'd recomend you spend a day with compressor and some waxoyl and squirt loads everywhere you can underneath the cr, and in the cavity's.
I'd also get the steering alighment checked (moine was way off) and a full service asap if one isn't included when buying it.
And try and get a good warranty. My creaking anti-roll bar links are covered by my warranty. whaey !
And when you have a test drive try not to get to excited with the power but make sure you look an feel for driving faults - this is the hardest bit cos once you acelerate hard you WANT that car no matter what.
I know where there is a red Evo2 for sale near me, from a good specialist (who service my car)
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks TonyC. I'm quite used to the waxoyl thing as I have a Mini Cooper at the mo'. It looks like it might be a few months before I get my Lancer as I have repairs to do before I sell my car but I will definetly take heed of your advice. Just a quick clarification. You mention removing a gap on the Headgasket/cooling system. Which gap would this be?

Anyway thanks again. If anyone else knows of any other problems I may nee to know about then post a message.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ah, that'l be the gap thats normally spelt with the letter c. Eg the cap - radiator cap.
Doh, someone help me , my fingers are out of control.

TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think Tony meant to type 'cap' not 'gap'. It's all that gin he drinks


Have to concur with the advice given previously, esp. the bit about test driving one. It's very easy to get blown away with the grip and power, especially coming from a Mini
Having said that, every Lancer I've been in has creaked and groaned to some degree so don't over-analyse noises, particularly ones from inside the cabin.

Don't make the same mistake I did and leave the a/c off for more power
it needs to be used constantly to avoid the magnetic clutch getting fubared. This is a very expensive thing to get fixed, so it's best to leave the a/c in eco auto mode.

I would also check that the car you are looking at is what the guy claims to be selling. There is a handy list of chassis numbers on the Co-ordsport site. Many Evo 1s are sold as '280bhp Evo 3s' when all they have is the larger rear wing. Familiarise yourself with the different bodykits by having a look at some of the cars here and on other sites.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Doh! Forgot to mention service intervals:

As often as you can afford basically, 6000 kilometres is what I've been recommended (or about 4500 miles conversion fans), but I've found that changing the oil and filter every 3-4000 miles and doing a full service every second oil change is sufficient. Plugs etc. last at least this long.

Not having a 4G63 I wouldn't know exactly about parts availability, but it can't be any worse than my 1.8, so you shouldn't have a problem. AFAIK even Halfords have oil filters that'll fit, though I have been told that Mits ones are better 'cos of a flap that stops oil draining down the engine when switched off (helps tappets). This is apparently missing on pattern parts. Any takers as to whether this is true?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
he he and amp;lt;Hic and amp;gt;
Good point about checking what you are buying, the co-ordsport site is good for checking out the chassis numbers etc (by the way there are on a plate on the firewall under the bonnet (between you and engine).
The place I bought mine from we're ok but tried to convince me that evo I's had 280bhp etc. Its better if you know more than the car than the sellers.
The only difficulty is finding people who know about the I. I've tried a number of specialists and they um and ah once you mention it is a I.
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One of my doors is misaligned but I did that and won't mention how I did it.

One major thing to watch out for is the roof rusting. This happened on my car and I've seen it on others as well. The adhesive that Mitsubishi used to bond the roof support rails to the underside of the roof corrodes the roof from the inside out. You will first see it as some little bumps on the roof that get bigger and bigger and more plentiful.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
With regards to pattern oil filters : the bit about the flap being
missing that stops the oil draining back definately used to be true as it use to affect my old Toyota Corolla Coupe. I was informed quite a time ago that you would be hard pressed to find a pattern filter without one these days though.

Has nobody but me here ever had any ECU problems then?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow so many replies. Well cheers to all those who have replied I feel I am armed with lots of info now so will feel a lot more confident in buying an EVO. As I said it will be a little while yet 'til I get it but I will keep you all posted on the progress.

Thanks Again
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Definitely go for it.

The problems I have had were minor compared to the fun the car has given me. The roof has been the major thing. Other than that, I replaced the water pump and the clutch, which wear out on any car after a while.

It wasn't too hard to patch the roof. They just removed the roof liner, cut the rails on one side, ground of the adhesive and re-welded them back in. Then they drilled out all the rust spots, filled them, primed and painted inside and out and that was it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It cost about us$400.00 to do. Not exactly cheap, but again not really a big deal as the car has been so much fun.
 
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