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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my 8 decided to show the dreaded 3 ayc lights :smthumbdo

I have had a search and had a look for corrosion inside the plugs in the passenger footwell as mentioned in a couple of threads on here
All the plugs are fine no sign of corrosion, carpet was a little damp underneath but all plugs and wiring was bone dry

evoscan decided to give me every possible ayc fault code :wallbang:
no idea what that could mean other than a faulty ayc ecu?

copied from evoscan today

Updated: 15:31:47
Diagnostic Codes:12 Val. Power Supply
0xC0 And 0x02 Unknown DTC
26 Speed Sensor
25 Deformed Tyre
24 Rear Left Sensor Open
23 Rear Right Sensor Open
22 Front Left Sensor Open
21 Front Right Sensor Open
0xC1 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
0xC1 And 0x02 Unknown DTC
0xC1 And 0x04 Unknown DTC
41 TPS Open
34 ST-1,2 Short
33 Fixed ST-N High
32 ST-N Short
31 ST Sensor Open
0xC2 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
65 ABS Monitor
0xC2 And 0x04 Unknown DTC
61 Stop Lamp Switch
0xC2 And 0x10 Unknown DTC
56 G Force Sensor (Lateral)
52 G Force Sensor (Stick)
51 G Force Sensor (Straight)
0xC3 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
83 Pump Fail 2
82 Pump Fail 1
81 Pump Relay
0xC3 And 0x10 Unknown DTC
73 Left Direct Valve
72 Right Direct Valve
71 Proportion. Valve

:rotz:

Any thoughts guys?

Also the 3 lights initially come on with the abs light when the n/s/r abs ring failed about a month ago
so we used the 6 daily and rarely used the 8 as no abs in the icy weather we had was not a great idea

that was replaced friday and abs light cleared on the dash but the ayc lights still indicating a fault
 

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are the lights on right away when you start the car or do they show up after a while?

if they are on right away it is probably something electrical or the pressure sensor.. but could be something else..

if it shows up after a bit of time after you start the car then it is probably pump corrosion.
in that case try testing the pump with the quick test involving the full throttle pedal test..

turn off the car, apply full throttle, turn the ignition to on (dont start the car) and wait for the pump to switch on... if it starts and makes a continuous noise, without slowing down then it has lost pressure, needs to be overhauled..
If it doesnt start at all then it might be stuck or have an electrical problem..

also check the pump fuse..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
are the lights on right away when you start the car or do they show up after a while?

if they are on right away it is probably something electrical or the pressure sensor.. but could be something else..

if it shows up after a bit of time after you start the car then it is probably pump corrosion.
in that case try testing the pump with the quick test involving the full throttle pedal test..

turn off the car, apply full throttle, turn the ignition to on (dont start the car) and wait for the pump to switch on... if it starts and makes a continuous noise, without slowing down then it has lost pressure, needs to be overhauled..
If it doesnt start at all then it might be stuck or have an electrical problem..

also check the pump fuse..
The lights come on when you start driving they have never come on when ignition has been turned on you can select between tarmac gravel and snow

I have just tried the full throttle test multiple times and I never heard the pump operate, the list of fault codes seems rather large for just a pump to fail:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you cleared the codes, driven till the light comes on, then checked codes again?

Stu
I have mate yes makes no difference

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The lights come on when you start driving they have never come on when ignition has been turned on you can select between tarmac gravel and snow

I have just tried the full throttle test multiple times and I never heard the pump operate, the list of fault codes seems rather large for just a pump to fail:confused:
I had exactly the same issue when I picked up my 8. You could toggle through the three settings and seemed normal but when. You started driving after a min or so the lights came on. Removed and sent to hockley motorsport turned out dodgy solenoid. They overhauled and sent back to me
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
finally got around to reading the codes

codes from ayc
82 - Pump malfunction or sensor failure

codes from abs
13 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system (open- or short-circuit) 35B-8
23 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system 35B-8
24 Wheel speed sensor (RL) system 35B-8

disconnected the battery and drove half a mile down the road

same codes re appeared

also just to relitterate the lights all appeared at once when the rr abs reluctor ring failed had that replaced abs light extenguised but ayc still illuminating

possible the abs sensors causing the ayc to fail

tried the throttle to the floor test and no noises from ayc pump:wallbang:
 

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finally got around to reading the codes

codes from ayc
82 - Pump malfunction or sensor failure

codes from abs
13 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system (open- or short-circuit) 35B-8
23 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system 35B-8
24 Wheel speed sensor (RL) system 35B-8

disconnected the battery and drove half a mile down the road

same codes re appeared

also just to relitterate the lights all appeared at once when the rr abs reluctor ring failed had that replaced abs light extenguised but ayc still illuminating

possible the abs sensors causing the ayc to fail

tried the throttle to the floor test and no noises from ayc pump:wallbang:
Ok, im not sure on this, but I have a feeling that disconnecting the battery doesnt clear ABS codes, but I could be wrong. If the ABS lights not on (but obviously comes on with ignition, then goes off and stays off) that would imply abs is working

Which leaves the expected Pump failure for the AYC

Only my take on it though, could well be wrong

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, im not sure on this, but I have a feeling that disconnecting the battery doesnt clear ABS codes, but I could be wrong. If the ABS lights not on (but obviously comes on with ignition, then goes off and stays off) that would imply abs is working

Which leaves the expected Pump failure for the AYC

Only my take on it though, could well be wrong

Stu
Thanks for the input buddy I suspect it's the pump also but just odd they both come on at the same time

What I'd like to do is clear the abs faults having a search how to clear the abs codes nothing come up as yet

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Easy way to test if your ABS is actually working is to drive on gravel ;)
We assume it is as no abs light on :mhihi:
Pump should make noise as its priming with car off /foot on ze gas pedal as mentioned ......points towards dreaded pump issue , rebuild can be done DIY with kit if you're brave enough :mhihi:
Best of luck :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Easy way to test if your ABS is actually working is to drive on gravel ;)
We assume it is as no abs light on :mhihi:
Pump should make noise as its priming with car off /foot on ze gas pedal as mentioned ......points towards dreaded pump issue , rebuild can be done DIY with kit if you're brave enough :mhihi:
Best of luck
Cheers bud i know the abs is working weird how the codes stay in the ecu

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Cheers bud i know the abs is working weird how the codes stay in the ecu

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
Funny enough I have exactly the same fault with my 9- I know the pump requires overhauling as I can hear it running at a constant speed.

However, I am not getting the 3 AYC lights but am getting the ABS light :handsup:

Did you sort this out or is it still an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Funny enough I have exactly the same fault with my 9- I know the pump requires overhauling as I can hear it running at a constant speed.

However, I am not getting the 3 AYC lights but am getting the ABS light :handsup:

Did you sort this out or is it still an issue?
Well the issue was 2fold

1st issue was the ayc pump had corroded inside and that was repaired

2nd issue was a connection inside the passenger wheel arch was disconnected that must have been my fault not reconnecting it

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Well the issue was 2fold

1st issue was the ayc pump had corroded inside and that was repaired

2nd issue was a connection inside the passenger wheel arch was disconnected that must have been my fault not reconnecting it

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
Thank you for coming back :smthumbup

Hopefully it's all down to the pump, currently deciding if I am going to remove it today or not....

Having issues with Evoscan logging from the ABS ECU to check the sensors and rings are good.

Will update once it's sorted......
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for coming back :smthumbup

Hopefully it's all down to the pump, currently deciding if I am going to remove it today or not....

Having issues with Evoscan logging from the ABS ECU to check the sensors and rings are good.

Will update once it's sorted......
No worries

If you can get hold of a low ohm meter you can check the resistance of all the abs sensors from the main abs connection inside the engine bay

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Thank you for coming back :smthumbup

Hopefully it's all down to the pump, currently deciding if I am going to remove it today or not....

Having issues with Evoscan logging from the ABS ECU to check the sensors and rings are good.

Will update once it's sorted......
if you are only getting abs cod then the pump fail wouldnt bring on any abs light as it has nothing to do with the abs

if a wheel sensor has gone down youw ill get abs and ayc

easiest way is do a pin test on the obd and count the flashes of the abs light and see what fault code it is
 

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How can you test the abs code?
I only have a paper clip at the min?
My acd lights are also on :( richey has been helping me with my issues too.



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Decided to bite the bullet and go back to basics as you rightly suggested.... and LH front senor is >17k Ohm all 3 others are in spec at 1.3k Ohms and produce about 10mV when rocking the car.
Also checked my front passenger footwell and found some old evidence of water in the infamous plug but all connections were OK as I removed the pins from the plugs to check.

Hoping a new ABS sensor sorts the light out but Ross Sport aren't back until the 3rd. :eek

Going to rebuild the pump over the coming days anyhow.



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How can you test the abs code?
I only have a paper clip at the min?
My acd lights are also on :( richey has been helping me with my issues too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
same as you get code for ayc and engine light mate

just bridge 1 and 4 on obd and count the flashes when ignition is on

a constant flash means no codes
 

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Minor update. As with the OP I had 2 faults; one was corrosion inside the pump and the other being a knackered (open circuit) Front LH ABS sensor.

I had earlier flashed out the fault does by linking pins 1 and 4 (or pin 1 to ground) but got a load of different faults which really wasn't helpful. I would suggest resetting the ABS ECU's fault memory manually as it turns out Evoscan doesn't do this when using the "Clear DTC" feature.....

Dead easy, it's detailed in the workshop manual:
Foot on brake, ignition on (but don't start car), 2 seconds later release brake pedal and pump 10 times. Ignition off and and then back on. If the ABS light goes out after 3-5 seconds then all is good (or it's not a hard fault), if not flash out again and it will only show active faults and/ or be ready to show them when the car next drives.

Hope this helps someone!
 
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