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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, from reading old posts on here i'm 99% sure my new judder is the front diff bolts, only happens on right handers on power and feels like you're going over a cattle grid.

I've not had to do a massive amount of work on the Evo yet myself so I've not really had much call to nose under that part of the car.

Is it a case of:

drop gearbox & transfer case oils
remove n/s driveshaft (does the o/s need to come out too?)
insert 8mm bolt & slide hammer a shaft out of the n/s
undo some bolts from transfer case and don't smash your face with it when it drops


Cheers, Nick.
 

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Hi guys, from reading old posts on here i'm 99% sure my new judder is the front diff bolts, only happens on right handers on power and feels like you're going over a cattle grid.

I've not had to do a massive amount of work on the Evo yet myself so I've not really had much call to nose under that part of the car.

Is it a case of:

drop gearbox & transfer case oils
remove n/s driveshaft (does the o/s need to come out too?)
insert 8mm bolt & slide hammer a shaft out of the n/s
undo some bolts from transfer case and don't smash your face with it when it drops

Cheers, Nick.
nope you can remove driveshafts then half shafts and front diff cover
just pull out diff with you hand and take a look at diff bolts
 

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Gearbox shares same oil as transfer , you don't need to drain CWP section on transfer.

Just be aware the diff is flipping heavy and slippery! I got a trolley jack under ready and **** loads of rags
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers guys, been out and got some bolts this morning so here goes.

Sods law the noise appears yesterday, after I serviced the car on Saturday with new oils all round and I'm off on holiday in the car on Wednesday!
 

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Just remember the bolts isn't a permanent fix. It will come back at some point due to the design of the heads. You can have the diff machined to accept square shouldered bolts which will cure the issue and make it a permanent fix.
 

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Just remember the bolts isn't a permanent fix. It will come back at some point due to the design of the heads. You can have the diff machined to accept square shouldered bolts which will cure the issue and make it a permanent fix.
Do you mean machining the face where the bolt sits?

 

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No it's the taper where the bolt head sits , it can be machined to accept a square shouldered bolt. CliveW did mine a few years back.

The Tommi transfer has this from factory as do the later boxes on the CT's .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the downpipe off and oils drained etc. Looks easy enough to pull the diff cover in place without removing the entire transfer case.
Will I still need to pull both driveshafts doing it this way? Or just the drivers side
 

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Transmission Dynamics
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Replacing the countersunk bolts with 12.9's will not solve the issue, it will just lengthen the time to failure. I have rally customers who were still breaking the 12.9 contersink bolts every 90 stage miles before I modded their diffs.

Mitsubishi changed the design on the TME onwards for a reason. If they could have just changed the countersink bolts to 12.9's to resolve they would have done so, as it would have been a lot cheaper!

The diff casing is extremely hard 59-60 rockwell. I made my own very high spec cutter to allow me to machine the housing. If you send me the front diff, I can strip, clean and inspect for damage (the internal worm gears can chip their teeth if the car has been used with the bolts loose or broken) machine and rebuild with longer cap head 12.9's for £60 all in. I'll guarantee for life, that the bolts neither come loose or break.
 

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Got the downpipe off and oils drained etc. Looks easy enough to pull the diff cover in place without removing the entire transfer case.
Will I still need to pull both driveshafts doing it this way? Or just the drivers side
The front driveshafts and intermediatte shafts fit into the front diff, so you'll need to remove both to remove the diff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If I didn't need the car to go on holiday on Wednesday then it'd definitely be winging its way to you mate. Temp fix will do for now and then I'll get it done properly over winter while a few other niggles get sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


All 4 bolts tight and not snapped. Now I'm miffed.

Any ideas what else it could be? Only happens on right hand corners under load. Feels like the n/s wheel is on a cattle grid. Checked for play everywhere yesterday before deciding it must be diff bolts.
 

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My evote 4 does this .. but on left corners only above a certain speed .

I've posted before about it but never had any luck .

I've replaced gearbox and transfer . Wishbones . Shocks . Strut top mounts . Inner and outer rack ends . Drop links . Arb bushes . All 4 wheel bearings . Discs and pads and calippers .. Last owner changed the drive shafts .
 

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knocking

My evote 4 does this .. but on left corners only above a certain speed .

I've posted before about it but never had any luck .

I've replaced gearbox and transfer . Wishbones . Shocks . Strut top mounts . Inner and outer rack ends . Drop links . Arb bushes . All 4 wheel bearings . Discs and pads and calippers .. Last owner changed the drive shafts .
i have the same thing on my iv it only does it when turning left
only a faint knocking tbf
i thourght it was comming from the rear but now i think its comming from the front anybody got any ideas :smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nick did you ever get to the bottom of this? I am havbing the same issue

Cheers
Dave
Maybe a bit late but only just saw this sorry.

Turned to be the n/s inner cv, swapped in a pair of used driveshafts from a breaker and it's all sorted.
 
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