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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My tappets have just started tapping, not bad but still anoying. How easy a job is it to cure. I mean can the guy at the local garage sort it or is it a main dealer job ?

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Welcome to the land of performance Mitsis!!
There's alot of talk about curing this problem from thicker oil to replacing the tappets. I seemed to of cured the problem by fitting a Champion filter which is bigger than the OE item, not exactly sure how but it think it's something to do with a larger volume of oil be allowed to flow up to the head.
I'm not sure if this will work for everyone but it's worth a try:D.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From my FAQ's:

Noisy Tappets
Cars affected:
All hydraulic tappet cars (Lancer 1800 RS/GSR, Evo 1-7)
Loud 'ticking' noise from the top of the engine after starting from cold. Rises with engine revs however it should go away.
Problem and cure:
The 'ticking' noise is most often caused by air being trapped in the Lash Adjusters of the hydraulic tappets. The air is compressed in the high pressure chamber of the Lash Adjuster and therefore the adjuster does not take up the clearance between the tappet roller arm and the cam lobe correctly when the valve is opening. It may take a short period for the air to be expelled after starting the engine so some 'ticking' is acceptable, however if the noise lasts for a long period or doesn't go away at all then there maybe a problem.
Air can be trapped in the adjuster due to several reasons that are listed below:
Incorrect grade of oil used (too thin or thick).
Old oil (debris in the oil may block an adjuster).
If the car is stood for a long period or if it is stood on an incline (the oil will drain from the adjusters).
Over filling the engine with oil (if the oil level reaches the crank it may churn air into the oil that will migrate to the lash adjusters).
If the tappet noise does not disappear soon after start up (5-10 seconds) then try some mild racing of the engine. Gradually increase the engine speed to 3000rpm (over 30 seconds) and then gradually decrease it back to idle (again over 30 seconds). Repeat this roughly 10 times. If the tappet noise disappears then the air has been expelled from the Lash Adjusters and they are working normally again. It is worth checking your oil level and condition as that maybe the cause of the air entering the Lash Adjusters in the first place. Change your oil if in doubt. Make sure you use the correct grade of oil as going too thick or thin can make matters worse. Mitsubishi quote 10W30, it is not recommended to use 0W or 5W rated oil. If an oil change makes no difference then the adjusters maybe blocked or damaged and will require cleaning or possible replacement. This can be done by a competent home mechanic or if in doubt consult your servicing agent.
Approximate cost of repair:
Oil change |EQU| £30-£50
New Lash Adjusters are approximately £18-£20 each inclusive (fitting approx. 2-4 hours depending on the number to replace).

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, the engine is currently running Castrol GTX Magnatec 10w40 and has only done about 1500 miles since it was last changed.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just one thing regarding the viscosity of oils. I happily use 5W-50 Mobil 1 oil, no noisy tappets, no refills needed between services etc. Also several well known rally preps here in Switzerland and Germany use the same oil in their racing engines with power in excess of 400hp. It's only in the UK I hear that the 5W viscosity should be too thinn for those turbocharged engines. I also use my car on track and on very spirited drives with a tuned engine so it should have already blown up then.
Has anyone ever blown his engine when using a topgrade 5W-XX oil? I've never heard of any yet. Even my mate uses it in his tuned Scoob (prone to big end failure) which is also used on track and guess what never ever any problems.


Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Easy when its just cut and paste out of my FAQ's ;)

No one has said that an engine may blow up if you use thinner oils, I know several people who use 5W50 and their cars are fine. All I can say is the official line is use 10W30, I am not going to tell people to use anything any different to what is recommended. There is even a warning in my Japanese owners manual, although I can't read Japanese its highlighted and its got an exclaimation mark next to 5W30 oils. If you are in a colder climate especially now that winter is on the way then a slightly thinner oil maybe beneficial.

Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have been busy finishing off my Defi-Link boost gauge kit article for WC but that is now complete (hopefully in the Christmas issue). The next job is too finish off the FAQ's, I have most of the text done I just need to finish it off, check it and sort out the graphics and web design. I am trying to make a professional job of it so it takes time (and when I get time to do it!). It WILL be ready for when the planned 'extras' get added to this site (hopefully at the end of the year), I can't wait it should be good ;)

Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My latest test/experiment seems to be yielding good results for the elimination of intermittant tappet noise during general running of engine. From my last oil change (I've always used Mobil 1 5W-50) if I get that common tappet noise at startup and it runs for more than a couple of seconds I turn the engine off and immediately re start. On re starting the tappet noise does not return and for the last 5,000km I have NO pesky intermittant tappet noise when driving around and on idle at the traffic lights etc. This is a big first/miracle. I am interested if this works for other people.
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