[Guest]

Hi ime new 2 this EVO game, so let me start. Ive been offered a newly imported damaged repairable evo 111 thats got relevant documents but not yet registerd or SVA'D, that looks like its had a hard life in japan. Its not the dammage that worries as its only light. ie bonnet, intercooler, 1wheel and a missing rear spolier. the problem is it badged as a EVO 1V has been resprayed in white, and its previous colour was what seems to be metalic blue(was this a standard colour for a 111?) also the engine bay is gray, is this normal? what are the noticeable differances between a 1,11 and amp;111 And finally can any one tell me a true value of a minted up??EVO. Please help before i part with my hard earnt cash.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like a dog. Leave it alone and plump for something more kosher.

 

[Guest]

Hi,
Only good for the breakers matehttp://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >. Plenty of original examples around, so don't fall for the Evo Badge[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >.
Paul.C

 

[Guest]

Yeah !

keep well away from this moggy.

 

[Guest]

what is the chassis number as these are the easiestway to tell without seeing the car tell me what the number is and i will let you know
for example EVO 1 is CD9A

the front indicators on evo 1 and amp; 2 are clear plastic with orange inside where as EVO 3 have a full orange plastics

From EVO 3 to 4 the whole car changed tail lights on a 4 are a triangle shape not oval like evo1,2,3

 

[Guest]

yes Evo 4 is a completely different shape, engine the other way around, lots more (serious) gizmos, the lot.
I have seen a dark metallic blue evo2 before. Not sure if they did a 3 in this colour though. The grey engine bay sounds very strange, as does the evo4 badging.

id help is:
evo 1 |EQU| CD9A
evo 2 |EQU| CE9A (up to chassis number 0006500) (up to 1994)
evo 3 |EQU| CE9A (from chassis number 0100001) (from 1995 - maybe even only 1995)

Classification Code: SNDF |EQU| RS Model and SNGF is GSR Model and RS-2 Model

true value - thats a tough one. whatever someone is prepared to pay really. Prices of advertised cars vary a lot. Certainly you tend to see the higher priced ones advertsised for months on end, I've even some some advertised for over a year!!! The 3 is the rarest but there's not that many buyers about by the looks of things. If you're trying to flog one with an iffy history I would think it would be very hard as all 3's advertised claim to be mint with low mileage so you'd be up against them.


So same advice as the rest. Forget it. Sounds like trouble

p.s. I think cars over 3 years old don't need SVA. Anyone?

 

[Guest]

Correct only an MOT is needed

 

[Guest]

I thought any car not made/available in the country had to be SVA'd before it could be given a registration document ?
My SVA docs indicate that it was SVA'd on the chassis number and then they assigned a year related reg number. And then the car has to pass an MOT run to the MOT regulations for that year. Eg fog light, etc.
?

I'd be very suspect of this car, I don't think it is a 3. The Evo 1 and 2 were available in a dark blue. The Evo 3 colour chart had blue deleted and bright yellow replaced it.
Sounds to me like an Evo 1/2 that has been rallyed/imaginary rallyed - given a E3 body kit, messed around with and then has made its way here.
If it still has a chassis plate check White II's numbers - E3 has to be above 01000001. And double check the number against the number stamped on the bodyshell next to the chassis plate.
To be honest, unless you were buying this for parts and it was very cheap I wouldn't touch it with a stick held by someone else !
And rally teams often paint the underbonnet area a different colour - usually nice and brigth as you can see any muck/oil leaks very quickly and damage shows up easily as well - especially if the car exterior is dark. I did the same on my race car. - Another reason to steer clear, heaven knows which way the chassis legs are pointing !

TonyC

 

[Guest]

Unless it's up for £500 , avoid at all cost's , it's a minger.

Sorting out major probs wud cost enuf to make your head spin , IF u cud get the parts.

 

[Guest]

TonyC,
Technically you don't even need an SVA, even on a car less than 3 years old, if you get a car imported through Ireland (i.e.registered there first)!
I looked at an E6 that Park Lane, Alton had for sale last year which was imported through Ireland and only had an MOT. Park Lane SVA'ed it themselves just to be on the safe side, it cost them nothing as they are the only independant SVA testers in the country. Apparently Park Lane imported and SVA'ed all UK Ralliart Evo 6's not sure about the 7's though.

Officially at the moment direct grey import non-european cars have to be SVA'ed unless they are over 3 years old in which case they only need an MOT. The rules do change very quickly though so you have to watch out!

 

[Guest]

You're right !
I posted that on-spec. When I looked it up later I found it is only needed on cars less than 3 years old. Mind you, it would still need some stuff doing to get an MOT.

TonyC
(PS: have enough people recommended not buying this car yet

 

[Guest]

WOOF, WOOF!

Its a dog, don't buy it, unless its very cheap and you want to break it for spares.

There I think that it is enough now in order to get the message.

Speaking of dogs...
I remember following a 4x4 through town one day (SWB Defender I think) and you could see the front wheels were not in line with the back ones! (the back wheels were shifted 4-5 inches to the right!) Bearing in mind I was driving behind the car and not squatting down and having a careful look it must have been really bad! I didn't stick around to see how it cornered!

 

[Guest]

heh heh

I saw something similar about a month ago. MInd you this looked like a home made beach buggy. Following it and you could see the front wheels must have been offset to the left by almost a foot!!!(no exaggeration). I didn't get too close just in case, even though we were only doing 30mph!!!