Im getting a drenth dog box fitted to my evo with an ikeya sequential shifter,
have any of you guys ran this system, not neccessarily with Drenth, ppg etc etc.
Just after some feedback, ie reliabilty, useabilty, quality, rebuilds, if any etc
im fitting a solenoid shifter onto the ikeya, with push button steering paddles to control the shifting, due to me having one arm after a motorbike accident a few years back.
im hoping it will be a fantastic system,
i only do about 3k a year max, mainly summer weekend blasts, lots of trackdays. so dog box on road is not a drawback for me as its not any everyday car,
1, do not use the softer 'indents' that come with the ikeya shifter.
2, get a metal shifter selector cage from Clark motorsport.
3, DO NOT flat shift the box or shift without clutch! unless you want to rebuild it a few times a year, i started out trying to flat shift and it wasn't nice. now i use the clutch gently and RAM the shifter up or down = nice gentle on the drive train and easy on your pocket.
4, the paddles will quite probably bugger the box if you try to shift on power or do ultra fast shifts, the RC developments 900hp car with holinger dog box has the paddles removed coz they're causing drive train stress big time.
just my opinion, a few top tuners, some other guys i race with who have dog boxes in their +600hp race cars and the opinion of the championship winning racing river that has been coaching me.
1, do not use the softer 'indents' that come with the ikeya shifter.
2, get a metal shifter selector cage from Clark motorsport.
3, DO NOT flat shift the box or shift without clutch! unless you want to rebuild it a few times a year, i started out trying to flat shift and it wasn't nice. now i use the clutch gently and RAM the shifter up or down = nice gentle on the drive train and easy on your pocket.
4, the paddles will quite probably bugger the box if you try to shift on power or do ultra fast shifts, the RC developments 900hp car with holinger dog box has the paddles removed coz they're causing drive train stress big time.
just my opinion, a few top tuners, some other guys i race with who have dog boxes in their +600hp race cars and the opinion of the championship winning racing river that has been coaching me.
1, do not use the softer 'indents' that come with the ikeya shifter.
2, get a metal shifter selector cage from Clark motorsport.
3, DO NOT flat shift the box or shift without clutch! unless you want to rebuild it a few times a year, i started out trying to flat shift and it wasn't nice. now i use the clutch gently and RAM the shifter up or down = nice gentle on the drive train and easy on your pocket.
4, the paddles will quite probably bugger the box if you try to shift on power or do ultra fast shifts, the RC developments 900hp car with holinger dog box has the paddles removed coz they're causing drive train stress big time.
just my opinion, a few top tuners, some other guys i race with who have dog boxes in their +600hp race cars and the opinion of the championship winning racing river that has been coaching me.
Ok, just helped out another dox box & Ikeya owner with advice so might as well share it so everyone avoids possible expensive damage!
Use the std detent springs on the dogbox, not the one's Ikeya give with the shifter. The Ikeya one's are way too weak and can allow the box to select 5th at the same time as 3rd. This is also due to the selector cage being too weak and opening up the gap that allows only one rod/fork to move at a time. I've had a few breakages while the std detents and selector cage fitted, as have a few others but none since fitting the std detents and the billet selector cage which Nigel at Clark motorsport had made as an upgrade.
I'd also never shift gear without lifting off unless you have a flatshift system setup properly. This basically cuts the injectors and fuel for a given time at each gearchange. A clever way to do this is to use a flatshift made for bikes. I use a Geartronics ECU which knows which gear the box is in and can be programmed for the cut from 10ms to 500ms depending on which gear is next. This allows the box to be shifted without a clutch or lifting off in around 50 -150ms and stops any turbo lag as the butterfly is held wide! It's a bit hairy when first used as you have to make sure it's all adjusted and working properly for that first full throttle change!
Also with the flatshift, the engine power is coming back on after the programmed length of time whether you like it or not! This means you have to be very quick with the change and literally ram the lever back with positive movement going up the box or the engine power may come on before the dogs are selected. I found that I couldn't grip the lever and pull my arm and lever back fast enough so now i use the palm of my hand in front of the lever and flick my wrist. With practice and a bit of playing you can get 100% reliable changes down to 60ms. The whole system is triggered by a single microswitch mounted on the Ikeya body.
I'd absolutely recommend a flatshift device with any sequential dogbox. it works at any speed and throttle position.
Video of it in action here to whet your appetites:
Try www.flatshifter.com they do a system for full throttle clutchless up shifts and clutchless downshifts also electric gearshift systems
graz
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