nice work :smthumbup
I know what you're saying mate but for most people, the automatic reaction to scraping a lense with rough is dread. Working in the manufacturing industry, you'd be surprised with the effects you can achieve with this technique and on several occasions, I've even resorted to using afile.thanks everyone, i wish i had used a camera instead of my phone for the pictures because these really dont do the results justice.
I got my wet and dry from a local parts place, will be far cheaper than halfrauds or anywhere like that but in all fairness you can do both headlights with 1 sheet of each grade so its not like it matters how much each sheet was.
I wouldnt really say there is a whole lot you can muck up to be honest, i think the best thing is to keep a constant flow of water over the lense, it absoloutly freezes your hand but washes any grit particles away instantly therefor no chance of scratching the lense. other than that spend alot more time with the 1500 grit than the 2500 because its the rougher grade which will remove the chips and scratche, the 2500 is really only enough to polish the marks the 1500 left out. and obviously watch the heat of the lense when buffing. Anyone trying just take your time and you will get on fine.
cheers mark
I had to take wet and dry to a £2k respray , that was enough to make me very nervousI know what you're saying mate but for most people, the automatic reaction to scraping a lense with rough is dread. Working in the manufacturing industry, you'd be surprised with the effects you can achieve with this technique and on several occasions, I've even resorted to using afile.:lol: Works a treat too.:smthumbup Same process as painting, albeit in reverse order. Just gradually building up layers.
I had to take wet and dry to a £2k respray , that was enough to make me very nervous