[Guest]

You know how suddenly you become aware of something, and then you wonder whether it's always been there?

I always push the clutch down hard to the floor, and bite point's about halfway up. But I've noticed the box seems to have a bit of a resistance going into gear. Often pops in with a soft crunch, especially when going from a standing start, but even when just changing op or down normally.

Car's done 6,000 miles and I normally get 3 years out of a clutch (never had to change one yet on any car I've owned, even the Celica GT4 turbo which was my last car).

Is it normal? Am I oversensitive? Or is there an expensive bang waiting to happen?

 

[Guest]

If the 2nd Gen Evos (IV-VI) have a cable-operated change like the 1st Gens, then this is normal. Once the cable has streched (inevitable) this can be noticed from 1st to 2nd and can be minimised by pulling the lever towards 7 o'clock as opposed to straight back. I don't really notice it on any other shift mind ye...

I hope you're not in for a hefty bill. Anyone more enlightened than me?

 

[Guest]

Not your imagination. I have owned 2 VIs and the 'clunk' seems to be more noticeable when everything is cold. Gearbox warms up and it seems to be a lot easier.

Have you also noticed that initial engine cold starting can feel a little lumpy under strain if you don't give enough revs? Has happened on both again.

Any cures for the clunk would still be appreciated.

 

[Guest]

Yep : much the same to report as last 2 posts. Have also noticed a tendency(intermittent) for very slight judder when moving away on lock (or part lock), which I assume is related to clutch - certainly feels that way - somtimes it doesn't do it at all and others you can feel it, but only just! there is, I think a tendency to look for these problems once you get used to the car. We're problably all paranoid !

As the mileage goes up (although I have heard reports of some low mileage cars doing it) You'll probably also get a tappet-rattle on cold start, which goes when warm, but is best solved by a good thrash - any experience, anyone ?

 

[Guest]

Tappet rattle, yup I have it on my Jan 2000 registered Ralliart Evo VI and it does indeed disappear when warm (normally after about 30 seconds) dealer says nothing to worry about. Also I get a whirring noise from the driver's side (sounds like it's coming out of the dash by the air outlet) when first moving the car after starting her up, assume this is an ABS pump or something and amp;gt; It disappears after 2 or 3 seconds. Paranoid Pete.

 

[Guest]

Tappet rattle, yup I have it on my Jan 2000 registered Ralliart Evo VI and it does indeed disappear when warm (normally after about 30 seconds) dealer says nothing to worry about. Also I get a whirring noise from the driver's side (sounds like it's coming out of the dash by the air outlet) when first moving the car after starting her up, assume this is an ABS pump or something and amp;gt; It disappears after 2 or 3 seconds. Paranoid Pete.

 

[Guest]

This may or may not be connected, as I am not sure if the clutch pedal setup is the same for all evos. Mine is a relatively high mileage (70k) evo1 and my gears crunched a bit - particularly first and second, and started getting worse. I feared the worst, but I investigated and found the evo1 has a strange clutch pedal setup. Firstly, there is a spring affair attached to the left hand side of the pedal under the dash. I can't work out what it's for really. It looks like a valve spring and it's only use I can see is to make the clutch heavier! Someone will correct me I'm sure. Secondly, and more relevant to this thread is the pedals attachment to the master cylinder. Unlike most cars I've seen, there is not just a metal pushrod between the pedal and the cylinder, there is a rod which comes out of the cylinder and then enters a short cylindrical device about the size of 7 or 8 2 pence pieces stacked on top of each other, the back of which is actually joined to the pedal. This is hollow and has a rubber bush inside it (a bit like a shock absorber mounting rubber to look at) and is retained by a nylon disc - also about 2 pence piece size. It must be some kind of damper to stop excess end pressure on the crank or something. Anyway, I found the rubber inside mine when I prised it apart had deteriorated a bit and the nylon retaining disc had split araound one side. The effect was, although the clutch pedal felt normal, when it was pushe down the push rod deflected off at an angle due to the disc and rubber and was not pushing the master cylinder in very far at all. What I did was to make a new retaining disc from a modified steel washer and turned the rubber over and refitted it. I now have a nice feel to the pedal and a far less crunchy gearbox.
Hope this may be of use to someone.

 

[Guest]

My VI which has a fraction under 3000 miles does crunch in some gears, although I have found if I make the change slowly this is less pronounced!

Also can someone confirm if the judder I sometimes experience when accelerating hard is this knocking that I have read about on cars running on lower octane fuel than the Japanese 100 RON, it is always run on SUL.

 

[Guest]

Frosty,
If the 'judder' you speak of normally manifests itself when you are changing up through the gears (3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th is a fave place for mine to appear) in the form of a seemingly 'flat spot' or even 'hesitation' then yes, I have the same in my 4 month old VI. If not then both of us are buggered

 

[Guest]

I had difficulties shifting down from 4th to 3rd several times on the Nurburgring, the gear refusing to be engaged, but then again, I was driving hard. On normal driving, no problems with my gearbox on my 6. However, I do experience some judder from a normal standing start (not doing it hard, just normal city driving) in 1st gear. As it is after all, a race car, I don't give much attention to this things. If you've been inside a race car already, you should know that it feels like the whole car is gonna fall apart every time you start the engine!

Cheers

Tarik

 

[Guest]

Frosty/Evo_driver........I have the same hesitation just on reapplying the power particularly when changing from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th under heavy acceleration. Knowing how the Impreza STIs knock even on SUL, I am going to fit the Link ECU when it is available in this country just to avoid any such problems, oh and why I'm about it add a few more horses in the bargain. If good octane booster was readily available I would us that in the meantime, but it is so much hassel adding 0.5 litres from a can into the tank every 150/200 miles. I am having a Knock link fitted within the next couple of weeks, so I will know whether knocking occurs shortly.

Steve

 

[Guest]

Reading the above posts with respect to crunchy gears - it seems many of us have lost the art of double-declutching. I hRE:Crunchy Gears on a 6

 

[Guest]

Looks like your reply doubledeclutched too, Oscarromeo!

Thanks guys for all the replies. Guess paranoia comes as standard with the VI!

 

[Guest]

I also seem to have this crunchy/clonk gear change on my evo6 but I only notice it from 2nd to 3rd...?
are we being paranoid?

 

[Guest]

Just noticed this thread as I was about to post another.
After just 500 miles in my new Evo VI, the crunch from 2nd to 3rd gear seems to be getting worse. There is a definate crunch that can be felt when the car is either cold or been running for several hundred miles without stopping. It only seems to happen when going into 3rd gear and all seems well in any other gear. In past experience this sort of problem doesn't go away with more milage !
The car is going into the main Mitsi dealer tommorrow (Tuesday) for its first service and I intend to tell them about the problem.
Anyone else had the same problem from new ?
Any suggestions or solutions ?

Ian.

 

[Guest]

I'm pleased to report that after my 9000 mile service at BTR in Castleford (to whom I forgot to mention the crunch) it doesn't do it.

9000 mile service includes topping up gearbox oil and adjusting clutch travel. Maybe that did it?

Now just have a Is that the front right bearing starting to go? grinding noise, that I never noticed before. It's probably the 4WD, and my imagination working overtime, coupled with the fact that I sit front right in the car, and my right foot feels it through the accellerator.

Ho hum...

 

[Guest]

I too have had this problem in 3rd and 4th with my VI which is three months old, no.212, it therefore seems we either have an inherent feature of the cable change on the car which may get worse as it ages or something needs adjusted as soon as you notice it happen as suggested with the play on the cable. I am annoyed that Mitsu don't do more to document this and all the other things with the cars as other high performance car makers do. I mean after winning four Rally championships in them and the cars being praised so much and selling so well, they should know these things! I have owned just about every top marque and have become a convert lately to this super-jap! just as I post this my car has a knackered clutch, with only 2300 miles on the clock, I've never done this with any of my cars, something far wrong here as it's only driven about town at weekends just now! We will now see just how much Mitsu can live up to the other marques and indeed the extra cost of it's official car/warranty!!

MP

 

[Guest]

My EVO 5 GSR initially had a very noisy gearbox while coasting in gear or under deceleration. I changed the gearbox and transfer oil and the noise went away. It made me feel much better about my car. The new oil was better quality product but it did create another problem. The lubricity of the oil was greater and it defeated the action of the synchronizers. I think that the gearbox is inherently noisy and will happily make noise for all of its long and productive life.