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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got an Evo 5, with HKS induction kit, require more power (bored) any cheap ideas? eg increase boost safely! Has anyone got a straight through exhaust? What BHP gains can I get from one?
Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If you fit a complete exhaust you will get 25 more bhp,and if you have a blitz dual turbo timer or a boost gauge to monitor the boost level you can set the boost at 1.3 peak usually without fuel cuts by modifying the restrictors.

Anyway if you get more boost and you get fuel cuts don't let the car do this and set a lower boost pressure again!

Probably the best value for money is the magnex exhaust at 550£,but I also like the hks hyper muffler with the extension kit as the rear muffler is smaller and it includes the turbo elbow and the turbo downpipe.but the price is higher(950£).
If you want just a cat back system you can also go for the blitz one that is more straight,full stainless steel,£450 and a magnex decat at £50!

If you really want noticeable extra power go for the ralliart sports ecu that will allow you to set about 1.5peak boost and you will get 330/340bhp!
The ralliart sports ecu is programmed to be fitted with a special air filter and exhaust and you won't get a real improvement with standard exhaust!

You can order the ralliart sports ecu from irs in japan at 550£ plus carriage or from coordsport at 850£.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you fit a complete exhaust you will get 25 more bhp,and if you have a blitz dual turbo timer or a boost gauge to monitor the boost level you can set the boost at 1.3 peak usually without fuel cuts by modifying the restrictors.

Anyway if you get more boost and you get fuel cuts don't let the car do this and set a lower boost pressure again!

Probably the best value for money is the magnex exhaust at 550£,but I also like the hks hyper muffler with the extension kit as the rear muffler is smaller and it includes the turbo elbow and the turbo downpipe.but the price is higher(950£).
If you want just a cat back system you can also go for the blitz one that is more straight,full stainless steel,£450 and a magnex decat at £50!

If you really want noticeable extra power go for the ralliart sports ecu that will allow you to set about 1.5peak boost
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Agree with Maxi,

Single best value mod you can do is an aftermarket exhaust - I fitted a Magnex and got the extra 25 bhp Maxi talks about. No need to change anything else, this will give you reliable extra power. The standard exhaust is pretty restrictive at higher revs (and sounds a bit weedy). A lot of people have gone for the uprated exhaust/filter combinations so you will not be alone.

Chipping and amp; boost upgrades can make a good difference but take care to avoid det or fuel cuts - ie get the work done by a pro and don't cut corners. This will be a bit dearer than the exhaust/filter route.

Steve.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My Evo 5 has the HKS Induction,HKS SuperDragger Exhaust and decat pipe. It will run to 1.3 boost and the previous owner had it rolling road tested at 311bhp - (I believe you can only compare bhp on the same day at the same place for true comparison). If you are going for big boost think carefully about upgrading your bigend bolts (Alan at Dragon has recommended I do this modification, so it sounds essential if you go for Maxi's ECU recommendation and end up at 1.5! Apparently its not as costly as it sounds.)

All the latest post advises the exhaust as the place to spend your money - with Magnex the one getting the most votes lately.

Incidently, Maxi, I'm intrigued to hear you can limit the peak boost with the Blitz Dual Turbo Timer. I've just had one fitted and didnt know you could do this, but then I'm struggling with the instructions. Anyone know how I do this?

Darryl.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No,I didn't say that you can limit the peak boost with the turbo timer,you can just monitor it and then modify the restrictors!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have removed my restrictors and am using a needle valve to provide a variable restriction. I find it much more convenient for tuning purposes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is there a simple explenation of what to restrict in order to increase the boost? I'm assuming its the vacumn pipe off to the wastegate actuator but would be grateful for a breif descripion of this mod! Ta muchly!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Two basic approaches. Decreasing air supply to the boost control system or increasing the bleed rate from it. I have used a combination.

Esentially the boosted air from the turbo is used to open the wastegate. To enjoy more boost some of the air supplied to the wastegate actuator is leaked off to present less presure to the actuator. This means you need more boost presure to effect the opening of the wastegate. Removing the gromet from the solenoid which controls the bleed has this effect. As I am using an aftermarket ECU I can set higher boost withought encountering the dreaded fuel cut . Restricting the supply from the turbo, I used a needle valve, means that opening the bleed solenoid has a greater effect. This allows the ECU to set a still higher maximum boost. This approach also allows the ECU to control and limit boost as per its program.

I have noticed that different versions of the Evolution are more or less tolorent of modification to the boost control system. Many people report that removing the gromet in the solenoid brings fuel cut. My experience was rewarding but retaining the gromet is wise. I speculate that using needle valves to provide the restriction from the turbo and to the bleed will allow very precise modification of boost. This should allow tuning up to the limits programed into the stock ECU.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So much for simple!

Placing a higher restriction in the small rubber line from the turbo outlet, that ultimately supplies the wastegate actuator, will lift boost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where do you get the needle valve thing from? It is appearently a good way of fine-tuning boost fron what has been said. Any pictures-web sites-info?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It is a good way to increase power by upping the boost and also its quite easy and cheap to do, but its also very bad for the engine if you do not increase the fuel which is quite expensive to do. A standard ECU can not handle 1.3bar of boost safely.
You will hear 'pinking' which is pre-detonation caused by over heating in the combustion chambers which will lead to a damaged engine!!!!!!!!!!
I had a power test on my car, and found that even at 1.0 bat of boost controller by a Blitz DSBC my engine was 'pinking' dangerously, only 0.1bar over standard boost.
If you do increase the amount of air(boost)by what ever means then you must increase the amount of fuel, the only way i know of is by changing the ECU or by fitting a chip and by maybe fitting larger fuel injectors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Chewey, Claudius

Get a copy of '21st Century Performance' by Julian Edgar, for those who want to know exactly the types of thing discussed here it is unparallelled in my experience. (can you tell I like it? http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >) The DIY mixture meter could save you the purchase price alone.

Although not totally unschooled in things enginey, I was a bit mystified by some of the devices common to modern/turbo cars (MAP sensors, wastegates etc.) even if I knew their purpose. This book gives you a broad range of knowledge from which to learn more about your particular car. After reading it cover to cover I went out and looked under my bonnet, just about every pipe and wire now makes sense!

Just re-read this post and I reckon I should be on commission from Autospeed! [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Most hardware stores will carry a selection of brass valves and fittings. “Needle” describes the shape of the tapered rod inside the valve body used to provide the restriction.

An earlier post describes raising boost this way as bad for the engine. Taking more power from any engine should increase its rate of wear. Reducing boost to say 10 psi could probably extend the life span of our engines.

By lifting boost within the limits of the stock ECU (avoiding fuel cut), you retain the standard fuel, ignition and boost maps. The engine should continue to fuel itself correctly. The consensus seems to be that the ECU over fuels quite heavily anyway. Though I know very little about the mapping of the stock ECU, the presence of a knock sensor suggests that ignition retard would be used to control detonation. I think it unlikely that raising boost as I describe would result in any unusual engines stress.

I am however hesitant to dismiss the caution offered. My personal experience is with a programmable ECU and I would take the advice offered earlier seriously. Some kind of knock display gauge, as a tuning tool, is a very good idea. With a knock gauge installed you will quickly know if you are asking your engine to do something that it does not like.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Guys, check out some of the US Mitsubishi tuning sites and bulletin boards - its all been done before on the evo's ancestors. VR4's, Eclipses etc. A lot of the products available for DSM's (Eclipses 1G and 2G) will work with evo 1,2 and 3's - small port 2g head with td05/16g turbo as standard. A heck of a lot cheaper than UK prices too - even with VAT and carriage. There's enough information out there for you to learn from everyone elses mistakes.

Check out

http://nabr.infusiontek.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

www.dsm.org

www.roadraceengineering.com

www.buschurracing.com

www.jgronline.com (Galant VR4 site)

www.mofugas.com (Galant VR4 specialists)
 
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