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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my gearbox oil today. The car is new and has covered just 857 miles but on reading the reports of the gearbox problems of some cars i thought it best to change the oil. I`m glad i did. To be fair the old oil still had quite good viscosity and the colour was O.K. I.E. not completely black, but i was very suprised at the amount of metal filings and rubbish that was stuck to the drain bolt magnet. No wonder that the gearbox bearings can become noisy with all that rubbish floating inside there. I was putting Castrol Syntrax back into the gearbox and this is definatley thicker than the old oil that came out. Changing the oil is so simple that this £30 job should be done regularly if it will prevent early wear to the bearings. I rigged up my own filling arrangement consisting of an orange flexible funnel, bought from Halfords, connected to an old petrol can funnel so that you can fill the gearbox from the engine bay. The Halfords funnel has the perfect nozzle that fits into the gearbox. Its just so easy. If your gearbox oil has been in there forever, change itnow, you`ll be glad you did. Good luck. SIMON
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I would love to do mine but wouldn't know where to start. I would need to know where the drain plug is (and as I understand it this is supposed to be ditched and replaced with a new one everytime you change it) and also where to refill it again. Why don't they tell you this stuff in the owners manual?

I guess also you need access to a lift to get under the car?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cookie,
U only have to jack the car up slightly at the front to be able to get access to the gearbox drain and filler plugs.
If u crawl under the car ( passenger side ) go beyond the engine back to the gearbox.On the side of the box there is a large
Hex head bolt 23 or 24mm (cant remember which) this is the drain plug. In front of this and above is a 17mm hex head bolt
this is the filler plug.
U really need to get hold of a copy of the e5 and e6 workshop manuals to be more specific. These manuals pay for themself on your
first home service, for instance u can replace all the drive-train fluids for under a ton. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for that Mr Mime, I might just take a little look later.

I would dearly like to have a workshop manual but didn't realise these were available to the general public? Can you give me some pointers as to where I could get one please? I'm pretty sure my Mitsu dealer wouldn't supply one (after all it would be taking work away from them!) My car is an E6 TME.

Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Simon,
Its even easier to fill than that! You just need to get under the car and you can just use the oil container flexible spout. Stick the spout in the filler hole and then rotate the whole bottle up against the radiator (carefully!).
It has to be the easiest car I have ever worked on to change the gearbox oil (not including a Mini ;)).

By the way any gearbox will always produce the iron fillings as it is run in due to natural wear. That is why the magnetic drain plug is there. If the magnet is completely covered like a christmas tree or has some large chips attached then start worrying.
Competition gearboxes actually can be provided with the gear teeth 'lapped' which basically means with them machined as if they were slightly worn which aids a smooth gear change, we just have to make do with doing this manually over a few thousands miles of driving ;) Changing the gearbox oil every 9,000 - 13,500 miles should be suffient but obviously as its so easy and cheap to do then you can do it more often if you want. Definitely change the gearbox oil after every trackday to flush out any 'chips' that can be created after a highly stressed gear changes.

The early gearbox bearing wear problem is due an incorrectly set pre-load in the factory and is not related to the oil.

Cookie,
You have mail.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Apparently another cause of gearbox wear on the bearings is the temperature of the oil. The gearbox oil can get very hot, which is why it breaks down so quickly and is runny crap.

My gearbox is just dying, and Ralliart have recommended cooling it - so I am fitting a small oil pump and an oil cooler just for the gearbox. This should extend the performance of the oil and protect the gearbox for longer. Particularly useful if tracking the car as much as I do.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
blade,
you might want to think about diff and transfer box oil coolers is the gearbox one is an easy fit. I know alot of the high power racers have cooling on all boxes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Blade,
Good point, the high temperature degradation(9) is also another reason to change the gearbox oil after every track day. Obvious for a serious track tool like yours then an oil cooler makes cost effective sense.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oli goon - good idea m8. Perhaps they could share the same cooler with a common reservouir or do I need seperate coolers? Probably will need to use inline water coolers for those.

Tony
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Seperate for each one. The Transfer box and Rear diff use a different oil type to the Gearbox.
Whether its necessary to have one for each one I don't know, I would just change the oil after every trackday.
I am sure Ralliart will put you in the picture whether they are needed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just so I don't go and buy too little or too much, how many litres of oil do you need to fill the gearbox and what grade should it be?
Cheers
Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello Rosco.
The most popular oil to use seems to be Castrol Syntrax [available from Halfords ] and the filling capacity is 2:8 litres. You can buy it in 1 litre tubs and it costs around £9:50 a litre.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
IVE JUST CHANGED MY E6 GEARBOX OIL TO CASTROL TAF-X. IVE FOUND THAT THE GEAR CHANGES IN 1st - 2nd AND 2nd - 3rd ARE ALOT SMOOTHER NOW. BEFORE THE CHANGE THE FIRST 3 GEARS WERE QUIETE NOTCHY WHEN CHANGING UP A GEAR.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the advice, I've now changed the oil today.
Question is there is a 17mm bolt I removed to refill the gearbox and just above it to the left is a star headed bolt. Is this the maximum and the 17mm bolt the minimum, or do you just fill the 17mm bolt hole until it starts coming out?
My cars only done 12.5k miles and boy did it have some gunk around the plug.
Cheers
Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rosco
Don`t touch the star headed bolt as this is probably holding something inside the box. Fill the box untill the oil trickles out when the car is level and then it`s a job well done. Since i changed my oil the gear change is a lot smoother, hope yours is too. Regards SIMON.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Simon
I'm glad to say I've done exactly what I should have done. When it's a nice sunny day I'll try it out!

Cheers
Steve
 
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