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In the planning stage of a 3 bay garage plus workshop.

Has anyone designed from scratch, plus how is your workshop or garage laid out.

Something like this but with doors.

Cheers

J
 

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I seem to also remember a thread on here showing a guy building a garage from scratch - it was full of photos from stsrt to finish and had a proper games machine in / black & white chequered floor and he had a porsche GT3 up on the ramps within it - unfortunatley I can't seem to find it ??
 

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There are a fair few timber frame companies out there offering things like in your photo. That's gonna be the most simple way of doing things involving the least trades possible. You may even be able to get away with just a concrete pad for foundations.

If I were doing it though... I'd get a blockwork shell put up. Put a pitched roof on of the cut variety (more storage space up there). Then either cover it in waterproof render or a waterproof membrance and timber cladding. Finally get 3No. powered garage doors (I like the sectional ones from a security POV plus they look right slick ;) ). This will be a more secure installation than an all timber one :)
 

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Steel frame and timber is good as Fish says for ease of construction it does have another advantage over Brick - it lets cars breathe eg if you put your classic away after washing it of a rainy journey it could sweat in a brick or block garage whereas wood will let it breathe.

We have a client who has 8 Wooden garages for this very reason he also has a gravity fed sprinkler system on the rooves. The have security of the rivited steel frame.

Jez
 

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IMHO I'd put in a concrete steel reinforced pad/footprint.................you then have the option of installing a vehicle lift OR a pit dependant on budget ;) ..............Steel frame and timber clad would be the quickest to erect I feel..but a lot of it may come down to the planning officer in your area........as to wether it is in keeping with the locale etc. etc...........ALSO again on your budget ;)
 

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InsBro said:
Steel frame and timber is good as Fish says for ease of construction it does have another advantage over Brick - it lets cars breathe eg if you put your classic away after washing it of a rainy journey it could sweat in a brick or block garage whereas wood will let it breathe.
Very good point Jez. Didn't think of that! You could build suitable ventilation into a blockwork garage though if you so desired. I just like it from the security side of things :)

Just a thought from a fire side of things too - brick is obviously gonna be better. You could also line the underside of your joists with fireline plasterboard which should give you a pretty good chance of getting the vehicles out intact if the worst happened. That said, you could line the whole of the inside of a timber frame setup and get the same result!
 

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If done correctly..............dry lining (i.e. No Plastering) just jointing compound where boards meet.......this should give 1/2hr fire resistance ;)

If a greater lenght of time is required.....something like asbestolux fire retardant sheet can be used..............(other fire retardant materials are available) :D

OR fit a sprinkler system.
 

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Famous steveyb said:
If done correctly..............dry lining (i.e. No Plastering) just jointing compound where boards meet.......this should give 1/2hr fire resistance ;)

If a greater lenght of time is required.....something like asbestolux fire retardant sheet can be used..............(other fire retardant materials are available) :D

OR fit a sprinkler system.
Just to clarify, using a skim of plaster isn't doing it incorrectly just takes longer to dry out ;)
 

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Fish Monkey said:
Just to clarify, using a skim of plaster isn't doing it incorrectly just takes longer to dry out ;)
It was not my intention to infur that plastering was an incorrect or inappropriate technique, I was meaning that when, Dry lining is done correctly using jointing compound to cover screw holes & joints, It gives an overall fire resistance of 30 mins.

Apologies for my crap/inappropriate grammer :D
 
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