[Guest]

For what it's worth...

I only use my Stage 1 tuned EVO6 on track days. And I brake HARD. The original brakes failed - completely - within one session at Bedford Autodrome. Oh dear.

I changed the fluid for Castrol SRF. Never lost the brakes since. ...But the brakes then 'wobbled' at the steering wheel like a complete *******. The car was virtually useless as a track day tool.

I replaced the Brembo disks with Tar-ox grooved (£220/pair) and Mintex 1144 pads. Much better 'bite' and far less 'wobble', but still some. Bugger. (BTW, my brother-in-laws brand new AP 6 pots on his EVO 6 also wobble a bit when hot...)

Took the 'dust' covers off from behind the front disks to stop the heat build-up. Also put in short sections of piping to cool the brakes. Brakes *much* improved on the next track day, but still not perfect.

Finally, put in two long lengths of Silicone 50mm hosing (Demon Tweeks) from the front air dam (after removing the daft lower air boxes which do sweet F.A.) and have them blowing between the caliper and the disk. Have done Brands Indie (OK, not that hard a circuit on brakes) and today I did Goodwood, hammering the brakes hard, hard, hard all day on 8 sessions. Not a single 'wobble' of any kind, nothing, nada, no matter how hard I proved the brakes - i.e. front tyres loosing grip.

This reinforces my belief that with decent - but not mega expensive disks and PROPER COOLING you can get great brakes on a EVO 6. The 1 million or so threads around here about 'warped disks' are wrong, IMHO. (Cue flames! But read the excellent post the other day about 'the warped disks myth' first, and the wobble stories that people get even with the CTF and AP disks...). Sure, if you are driving 11 tenths, in a 400BHP EVO, and are racing the bloody thing in 1 hour long sessions|PLS|, then AP/Movit |PLS| COOLING may be the only way for you. Me? I just wanted good, wobble-free brakes for hard track use. Now I have that, and without shelling out nearly £2k on AP's...

If you think the above is 'bull' or 'not for you' or 'disagree' then fine. I'm just trying to report my OWN real-world experiences. I hope the above is of use to any other EVO 6 owners who use their cars on track days and want to get rid of the dreaded 'brake wobble' that I experienced. This was the only thing spoiling an otherwise excellent car. And now it's sorted, I can look forward to my summer of track days.

Cheers,

Steve

 

[Guest]

re

I agree

 

[Guest]

Re:Brakes - finally sorted.

Stevephe,

Many thanks for this report... this is exactly why the MLR is here for people to post their fixes to everyday problems without having to shell out for AP's (unless they want to of course !!!)

Sounds like you have found a solution for you, that may work for some of the rest of us.... I only use my car on the road and experience no where near the braking forces you do on track, but still the theory holds the same...

As you only use your car for track days, it would be useful if you can keep posting your experiences of how the brakes are going.... even if they do start to warp....

Thanks for the info... i think i may try and go down this route... if further tests by you prove good

Jevo

 

[Guest]

Re:Brakes - finally sorted. (Without huge...)

Jevo - Updates? Sure will. I check my brakes at the end of every track day, and the wheel bearings too. These are both simple five minute jobs. I also try to match the pads to the types of disks I am using. I've seen so many people with 'shagged' disks on EVO's - even expensive AP stuff - as they've used pads which are way too hard for the rotors they have fitted; this, and the fact that they haven't fitted any cooling, is why they end up with 'warped/worn' disks. But, of course, the problem isn't the disks...

I forgot in my prior post to give InsBro the credit he is due (although I did in another post) as he'd got this solution originally from DP Motorsport. InsBro - if you are listening, how's your brakes holding up?

The only other thing I'm thinking of doing, just to improve the cooling system, and to make the whole thing look a bit more professional, is to buy some cooling 'scoops' from Demon Tweeks and fit them to the inside edge of the front air dam (at the moment I just have the pipes 'poking out' and inch or so, which looks a little bit ugly on my nice glossy black car. ) You can get these scoops in a 'single' and a 'twin' pipe versions; I might fit the 'dual' pipe ones just in case I ever think of adding a second run of pipe on each side pointing at the rear of the disks. When my DT catalouge turns up, I'll post some part numbers if people want them.

Yep, you are right about this type of thing being just what this site/forum was designed for. At Goodwood, I lost my Speedo/Odo. A quick search of this group pulled up exactly the information I needed, and I was able to verify very quickly that the 'KPH/MPH' converter box was the culprit. That saved me a trip to the Mitsubishi dealer (a pain as it's quite some way away) and a load of bullshit whilst they tried to work out what the problem was. He was quite suprised this morning when I said I'd searched this site and knew: 1) What the fault was. 2) Had bypassed the box and proved it was the problem. 3) Knew what was needed to fix it - and that this was a newer version of the converter than the one already on my car. 4) That this WAS a warranty covered item - mine's a UK car and he initially tried to make out that this might not be covered! Anyway, he's now agreed to get me one if I just fax him a couple of pages from my Owner's Handbook. Result.

Thank god for this site/forum - and the excellent posts by the people who frequent it. Cheers to all.

Steve

 

[Guest]

Re:Brakes - finally sorted.

Steve,

Can you mail me offline with the details of which discs etc as really interested in maybe going down the same setup as you....

Any pics of how the ducting looks ?

Jevo

 

[Guest]

Steve,

This is interesting stuff and you may have saved me a bit of money - ta. Will be looking at the ducting stuff that PE do now - never realised it was so important. BTW, are there any possible problems from removing the brake dust covers? (sounds like you need to remove 'em to get decent airflow to the calliper/disc).

Steve.

 

[Guest]

Re:Brakes - finally sorted. (Without huge ..

Jevo - The disks are just regular '1 piece' Tar-ox heat treated and hardened disks; they are 'grooved' and not 'drilled'. The pads are Mintex 1144's. Disks |PLS| pads is about £300-350, if I remember correctly. Phone DP Motorsport to order - that's where I got mine from (and InsBro got his); they are very professional and give good service. Sorry, haven't got the phone number to hand, but it's probably on this site somewhere and is definately in WasteGate Mag.

Steve C - I've read some less than flatering reports on the PE brake cooling system. It *looks* good, but is kind of heavy and still retains the dust covers, which in my opinion 'trap' the heat in the first place; it also tries to mimic the existing air boxes behind the front air dam, which I don't believe is going to give you the best 'direct, uninterrupted' air flow. Search some of the posts on this forum for details and user experiences. I did it myself and it worked out one third of the price of the PE system, and works better. Go figure. The PE system is about £350!

Cheers,

Steve