[Guest]

Yer, just wondering, I havenot raced my car on a track yet, so have not really needed to use the brakes to full effect.. But on sunday me and my m8, in his Escort Rs rally car (won Newbrighton road rally 3 times in its class) went out for a quick drive around Chester and shotten Paperworks ( where all the fast bikes etc go) and after about 45 mins off driving hard I was coming up to this roundabout at about 110 mph to brake, then all off a sudden it felt like my breaks had stopped working and wouldnt stop properly, I had to really press hard and use the gearing to slow down, now they seem ok again, whats this down to? Break glazing is it? Why should they do that? My m8ts car is like 15 year old Escort and his was fine! Made him laugh anyways heh.. Where are my nappies????

 

[Guest]

Fading?

 

[Guest]

Dunno, dont think so, the reason I asked this was, I am taking it on a track soon and this experience I had was not a nice one, as I was approching a roundabout at a (stoooopid) speed! If the car was not an EVO i woulda gone right over it.. The breaks felt like they lost pressure against the discs, was ok after I let em cool down..

What pads can anyone recommend that are fairly cheap?

Thanks

Chris.

 

[Guest]

This is the brake fluid boiling, resulting in loss of pedal feel due to lack of hydraulic pressure.

To solve this:-

1) Change your brake lines for goodridge brake lines
2) Change your fluid for at least 5.1, or preferably Castrol SRF
3) Get some brake ducts to keep the temperatures down even more (optional)

This is less likely to happen on a race track as you do not brake as hard as you would on a road course or an airfield. Once the brakes have gone in this way, the fluid never properly recovers, and the brakelines can become distorted too. Doesn't cost much to replace them (£100??)

Did your mate's car have a brake servo? If not, then he would never get this problem!

 

[Guest]

Thanks for your imput blade,Lots off hits but not many people reply afk.. I will change my brake fluid this coming service, I dunno wot me m8ts car has as far as breaks, he has just bought it of the rally team as his little toy. Its a mark 2 escort 2ltr, has a full role gage all the usual dials 2 fuel pumps etc etc, I aint no enginear so, but it is well complicated inside the cockpit and its pretty quick as well, keeps up with me untill about 55 mph it only has 4 gears...

Might be taking it to Donnington mith mine..(or Oulton parks next one)

 

[Guest]

Pagid RS14 will take all the heat and brake better cold and hot.

 

[Guest]

I agree with Blade that boiling is the most probable reason, but it could also be some air that was in your brake system for one reason or another. Was the fluid changed? Were the brakes bleed properly? As I say, boiling the most probable reason, but bleed your system just to be sure it wasn't that.

 

[Guest]

What about boiling? With proper brakes this should not be a problem at all! All these great tales about blue rotors, fading, warping, etc., it is always the same story. Just get some cool working Movìt brakes and the brake-whinge will finally come to an end and we can discuss other things!

Getting sick and tired of all these crappy solutions (that don't work).

I am still running Mov'it front and rear, std. brake fluid and no extra brake-ducting: the rotors still look like new! Even after countless laps on the track. (and the laptimes are getting quite good on the Ring)

 

[Guest]

Claudius

the RS14 can take the heat but not the fluid. Where do you think radiates the heat from the pads. Into the calliper and the pistons which are operated by the fluid. So the pad still has a enough friction at high temperatures but the heat is still there.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Guest]

For a start I have never whinged about the brakes, mine are perfectly fine and always have been, I was curiouse to why I got no brake response the other day, as I am still learning all that is to be learned about the evo, why not ask questions you dont know the answear too? My brakes have not warped, and I dont think they are fading, but they did breifly stop working for me at a rather fast speed, if it wasnt for my (driving skills) I woulda ended up going over a rather large roundabout, wouldnt have been nice for my front suspensoin and bodywork.. You learn something new every day, and I just have thanks to blade..

 

[Guest]

Brakes on an Evo receive harder use than most other (so called) fast cars due 2 the high average speed that can b maintained , the brakes become hotter more frequently than u may imagine.

Under these conditions brake fluid will become water saturated much faster than normal which causes the fluid 2 boil at much lower temp , u need 2 change fluid every 6 months 2 avoid problems , definately no longer than 12.

 

[Guest]

I did Donington yesterday with new discs and pads. The fluid was the original (I presume) and standard pipes. After a few laps and the heat had soaked in, I went to stop at 120mph and the pedal worked it's way to the floor. All I had to do was pump the pedal a couple of times and all was OK from then on.

The fluid had simply boiled and like Blade said it won't recover until you change it and safer still, get braided hoses like I'm now going to!

Steve