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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi there
does anyone have any pics of where i could T a boost gauge on an E7? i take it the airbox will have to come of for that ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
No need 2 touch airbox.
Look at the far left end of the intake manifold (the opposite end 2 the throttle body) , spy a small bore rubber tube. Tee in2 that for your airfeed. C simple :)
Make sure your connections r secure , if the tube becomes detached the engine will run lean and overboost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
this is not a good place to tee into AT ALL !
This pipe runs to the fuel solenoid
firstly,you are altering the lengh of the hose !
secondly,you will get fluctuating readings

the correct place is to tee into the line from the dump valve to the manifold
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Err....It don't make any difference. Just make sure you are detecting the pressure from the inlet manifold so you are getting the pressure reading the engine actually sees. You can use the dump valve vacuum pipe, the fuel pressure solenoid vacuum pipe or come to that the secondary air vacuum pipe which all connect into the inlet manifold. I placed mine just before the Fuel Pressure Solenoid valve (i.e. between the manifold and the valve) and have had absolutely no problems what so ever. Just make sure you use hose clips to secure it wherever you put it as Evoboy says (improves on the original in that respect). I totally agree about making the run as short as possible though and that applies wherever you place it, mine was a total of 30mm extra to the Solenoid valve plus about an extra 150mm Teed off to the sensor.

If you Tee in between the Fuel Pressure Solenoid Valve and the Fuel Regulator then you will get fluctuating readings.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sorry but i disagree,and was given this info by someone i trust
at the end of the day,putting it in the dump line is the best place as it cannot possibly affect anything
maybe it matters maybe it doesnt
using the dump line eliminates the question
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CHILDREN, settle down please ;)

Mouton you do have a point but the extra pipework we are talking about is negligible. It is more important not to insert long lengths of extra pipework to the manifold rather than exactly where it is placed. The sender of my electronic gauge needed to be placed somewhere flat so I used the metal plate where the Fuel Pressure Solenoid Valve is bolted on. This allowed the minimal extra piping possible, running to the dump valve piping would have at least doubled it, possibly more.
If you fitting any device that is sensing the intake manifold pressure then always go for the minimal amount of piping and that will often dictate where you place it.

Have a look at WC when it comes out, my install is in there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i am refering to the length of the solonoid to manifold pipe,not the boost guage pipe.
by cutting into the solonoid line you are considerably increasing the total volume of that line
get me ???
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The pipe on mine runs all the way from the inlet manifold to the inside of the car via the offside wheelarch. This is how it was fitted to the original Ralliart boost guage (now replaced by a Defi). This seems to work fine, but after reading your posts I'm not so sure. What exactly are the problems that could occur?
TIA
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Homer,
Non , the offside wheelarch route is the correct route for the air tube. My car is installed this way and connected 2 the inlet manifold as I described above , has run 4 two years |PLS| this way no prob , and there is no need 2 b concerned.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
dont listen to me ,listen to him
after all
he uses normal unleaded
doesnt use his car in winter
has carried out very few mods on his car
keeps talking about 6 speed,400bhp in the SPRING

me,
im a do-er,not a talker !
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mouton,
I think we will have to agree to disagree on this one.
There are a LOAD of variables you have to take into account when saying whether another part of the system is effected by a change in volume and it includes the internal diameter of the pipes used, the rate of change in pressure (flow rates in other words), the sensitivity of the pressure detecting devices attached and even down to the design of the T-pieces used for connecting in (which play a very important part of it, the T-piece is a special design for my gauge). Personally I think it perfectly OK to install the boost gauge as we have done. In my case I followed the manufacturers fitting instructions, I know it's not always adviseable to follow what a manufacturer suggests but they wouldn't specifically tell you to Tee the sender on the Fuel Pressure regulator vacuum line if it was not safe to do so.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Earth calling Planet Mouton,

The advice and comments I offer r generated from knowledge and experience , mostly given when members r asking 4 help or assistance , I am not attempting 2 convince any1 of my superior intellect (altho it is superior 2 yours :) )
Don't try 2 assess me from the vestigal glimpse that is revealed on this forum , I have very diverse background and many interests.

Try and have some fun M8 , it ain't a test ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The advice and comments I offer r generated from knowledge and experience
er,same as everyone else

I have very diverse background and many interests.
er,so does everyone else

it ain't a test
oh yes it is ! (it is panto season isnt it ?)

hh
i do respect YOUR knowledge,all im saying is,putting it in the other line CANNOT interfere with anything
so the question/debate goes away !!!!!! i.e. then there is no doubt
REGARDLESS OF WHO IS RIGHT OR WRONG
 
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