[Guest]

Hi,

The mechanics in my Mitsu garage recommended me to use the Shell Helix Ultra...I think this oil is to thin for the EVO.

What oils do you guys use? I want only the best for my baby. What about Mobil 1?

 

[Guest]

Mobil 1 _is_ too thin. I've used Valvoline and Castrol RS.

 

[Guest]

Castrol RS 10W/60 fully synthetic - not the 0W/?0.
Any other fully synthetic 10W-??.
If its rated too thin when cold it has a tendency to drain out of the hydraulic tappets (lifters) and cause the dreaded lifter rattle.

I'm using castrol Magnatec at the moment (all they had in Tesco's at 3 in the morning when my oil filter seal popped out - don't forget to tighten that filter up properly!!! - doh!) and it has cured my rattle where RS 10W/60 failed. Previously using Helix Ultra and it rattled like a snake.

 

[Guest]

@Lightspeed:

what rattled? Could you please explain this more clearly to me? Do you mean this strange noise mainly occuring in the 1st gear? My EVO has this noise, doesn´t sound very healthy...almost as if something would be loose, you know what I mean? Will this noise disappear when using a better oil?

I don´t really understand technical vocabulary in english, so please explain it to me. Thanx a lot.

 

[Guest]

I use REDLINE 15W-50, but I'm in Hong Kong where our climate is between 7 C in winter and 35 C in summer.............I have never seen snow!

 

[Guest]

Castrol RS 10W-60 and Mobil 1 15W-50 have both worked fine in my VI.

Steve.

 

[Guest]

Mitsubishi advise 10w30 synthetic.

I use Redline in this grade , best there is.

 

[Guest]

I use Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W-50 in my e6gsr, change it at 5000 mile intervals , the engine is still running fine after 52,000 miles.
The Mobil1 0W-40 is too thin as Michael K says.

 

[Guest]

The rattle is the hydraulic adjusters (lifters, tappets, lash adjusters) for the cam followers that open the valves. The followers require a small clearance to the cam shaft and the hydraulic adjusters are pumped full of engine oil to create this clearance. If you use oil which is too thin it leaks out of the adjusters when the engine is left standing (particularly if parked on a slope) and the engine will rattle (tick) on startup as the clearances to the cams will remain too large. Usually this rattle goes away after a few seconds on startup as oil is pumped into the adjusters. If it doesn't, slowly ( and amp; I mean slowly!) revving the engine to 4000rpm a couple of times whilst stationary should clear the air out of the adjusters and fill them with oil.

This problem affects pretty much all Mitsubishi multi-valve engines - not just evos. Mitsubishi have redesigned the adjusters several times over the years but the problems still persist. It doesn't generally cause any damage - just annoyance as your car sounds like a shagged diesel taxi. The only long term damage I have seen is deterioration of the tip of the adjuster and the cam follower where it rests on the adjuster tip. They are easily replaced (if you have a friend how doesn't mind losing the skin off his knuckles (only joking!)) using a two large screwdrivers.

Another point to note is that using cheap mineral oil and not following service intervals has a tendency to clog the adjusters with oil deposits and sludge. They can be removed and cleaned with carburettor cleaner if this appears to be a problem with an early evo. See the wonderful DSM (www.dsm.org) website www.vfaq.com (visually frequently answered questions) for more info on cleaning adjusters.

 

[Guest]

does any one know who sells Redline oil in New Zealand as I heard it was excellent in gearboxes as well

 

[Guest]

I use the Mobil 1 5W-50. I change the oil and filter between 3'500 and 5000km, everytime after a track day. I even disconnect the oil cooler to get all the old stuff out of the engine.
My tappets are much quiter than my mate's who uses the Castrol 10W-60. The car doesn't need any refills between the oil changes. I used the same oil on my modded Scoob which are prone to failure due to low oil pressure. No probs at all. The oil has also been recommended to me by 2 rally preps.

Mike

 

[Guest]

hi scoobymike,

so, would you recommend this oil to me, also in winter, at -15°C?

lightspeed: thanx for the explanation.

 

[Guest]

5W-50 would be mighty fine at -15deg C.
Mobil 1 is great stuff as long as you don't suffer from any rattling tappets.
I have an old article somewhere in my archive of a guy who ran his Saab Turbo for 60000|PLS|miles on the same Mobil 1 - just used a bypass filtration system and checked the oil in a lab at every change interval. The oil did not degrade. If you have an older car where you are not so bothered by service history you easily extend the oil change intervals if you use a good quality fully synthetic and quality filter.

 

[Guest]

the oil as recommended by Mitsi is 10.30.

 

[Guest]

To be honest I don't know if the 5W-50 grade still offers enough flow at those temperatures (-15deg). Solution would be a thinner oil in winter but don't know, to be honest, if that gives enough protection for turbo. Maybe there some experts out who can give a bit more help. Maybe some scandinavian members?

Mike

 

[Guest]

Dragon suggested to me millers 10/60, any opinions on this stuff before i fill up...

lee

 

[Guest]

Evoboy

I have always used Castrol RS 10W60. But I was advised to change to 10W30 or 0W30, forgot, anyway 30. But the guy said it has to be the very best oil there is, from Japan I guess, for GBP 1,000000000.........

Anyway, can you explain what best to use, you mention Redline, never heard of it, where is it from? The guy also said that the RS can cook at high cylinder temps and not protect. Would you agree? Thanks

 

[Guest]

You canbuy Redline from Deamon Tweeks in the UK by mail order .

 

[Guest]

Claudius,
Check out Redline at www.redlineoil.com

I'm sure u will c why it is one of the very best lubes available.

 

[Guest]

I have used Millers for the last 8000 miles (2changes) and its good stuff.
I went round the track at Oulton Park with Clive from RC developments. We were chasing a Skyline at the time and the engine oil temp was at 150 degrees C !!!!!! The engine in the car was being revved to 7500rpm in evey gear and all was well .......

I was sure that it would explode with those sort of oil temps but the Millers oil held it together fine.

I would recommend Millers to anyone after witnessing that !

Jonathan