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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

although I have my car serviced every 3k miles I have decided to get my oil changed every month. Can anyone recommend which oil is best for the Evo 6. I have heard that Mobil 1 5/40 is good and also Silkoline.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
MS.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Martin
mobil is the buisness but they do make two grades one i think is 0w50 and the other is their motorsport formula which according to them was developed for the cossy engine apparently its a bit thicker. The manufacturing tolerances on modern jap engines meens that even a 0w would be fine. Castrol also do a good fully synthetic their tech dept. are very helpfull no.01793 512712 give them a call.

Good luck
Sean
 
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Discussion Starter #3
If you intend changing every month (as I do) then you can go 'thin'. I use 5/40 Millers fully synth.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Martin,
Mobil1 do 0w-40, which is deemed as being to thin. They also do 15w-50 for motorsport use.
Either variant can be got from Halfords. I use the 15w/50 in my 6.
Coordsport/Mitsubishi do approve the use of Castrol oils. The RS 10w-60 is a fully synthetic and there is the Magnatec which is something like 5w-40 ( CHECK !). The magnatec is not a fully synthetic, but some ester based synthetic oil and is cheaper.
Peter Collinson of Coordsport has recommended its use though ( although these guys may get kick-backs from castrol !).

-Mr Mime
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Guys,

cheers for your replies so far. What I have to admit is that I know nothing about engine oil http://www.ltregister.force9.co.uk/graphics/Happy.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| middle > What do the two oil rating figures mean and why is thin or thick oil made, what difference does the viscocity make? Sorry for the questions guys..

Cheers,
MS.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
http://www.mobil1-motorsport.com/

Try this site, under mobil1 products header then
frequently asked questions there is an explanation of the terminology/numbers used in rating viscosity of oils. Whether or not this is universal terminology or for Mobil oils only, I don't know.
Basically, the first number is related to how thin the oil remains at low temperatures. W means 'winter' rating. The higher the second number
is the better the oil protects at high temperatures. However, if this number is too high then fuel economy is compromised.

-Mr Mime
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Hi All
I change oil and amp; filter monthly regardless of miles.
Ive been using castrol RS 10w - 60 fully syhthetic oil [used semi synthetic whilst running in ]very pleased with results.

Regards Dave D
 
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Discussion Starter #8
RE:Best Oil for Evo 6

Hi guys,

you should use oil with high viscosity at high temperatures for your turbo engines!

I use Castrol RS 10W60. I always wait for at least 2 mins before I start driving after switching on the engine in the morning so that everything is lubricated inside the engine and in order to get some temp before I start going.

0W40 oil is too thin for an Evo if you drive it hard and it reaches high temperatures.

Claudius
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Claudius,
I agree with your choice on grade and also warm up period. Even though the oils are synthetic and flow better than mineral oils on start-up, they need to get to optimum temperature
before you can really drive the car. The handbook says once the temperature gauge begins to move from low, you are ready to rock and roll.

-Mr Mime
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I asked this question ages ago on the Coordsite! This is Peter Collinson's answer:

We recommend and stock Castrol oils and usually suggest using Magnatec semi-synthetic. There is a school of thought that suggests some fully synthetic oils are rather thin and drain away from the hydraulic tappets too readily, which could cause early wear (noisy tappets).

R and amp;HP
 
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Discussion Starter #11
yea..i am using mobil 1 and they r pretty good on my E4..

But i would really want to try those Red-line or ELF, anyone been using this 2 brand?

i have been told ELF 'is' the best..but the price tag is a bit..ugh..
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hi All

Just got my Evo 3 today (Wow) I have always gone for a full maindealer service whenever I have bought a new car and then asked provided them with a 500ml bottle of slick 50 to add to the oil, because of the problems of the new synthetics being a bit thin to lubricate properly hydraulic tappets.

My question is do any of you guys bother with Slick 50 or do you just leave it be and change oil and filter regularly?

Regards

Steve Law
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Hi,

I have just done a service on my car and used Castrol RS. I have been told that this has managed to perform better with respect to wear than Mobil 1, in race conditions. This (mobile 1) would be my next preference though.

Does everyone use Genuine Mitsubishi filters? Or aftermarket ones? I have seen K and amp;N oil filters around, however unsure of the benefit....any ideas?

As to the Slick50. Yes i have used this for the issue mentioned above, regarding the noisy tappets, but would still recommend driving easy or letting the car warm up. This was the first service I have added slick50, after reading about its praises. All seems good so, far.

Troy
E3
 
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Discussion Starter #14
My research is as follows :-
The owners manual indicates that 10w30 is the grade to use. I have spoken to various rally prep boys and they use this grade from various manufacturers. My chosen oil is Redline 10w30 used so far without problems on a mildly tweaked Evo VI producing 330 BHP on 1.4 bar boost . See www.redlineoil.com for all the info on why their oil is superior to other synthetics. The correct grade is important , just going for a heavy viscosity using the logic thicker is better ignores flow rate , bearing tolerances etc . Heavy viscosity oils in an engine not designed for them could result in inadequate flow to bearings , high flow |EQU| cooler operation. Thicker oils also cause more drag in the engine , this means more heat and less power,thus the oil becomes hotter , not good.
Most engine wear occurs within the first seconds of start up , so the faster the oil flows the more protection at this time , lighter oils flow faster.
Wear at operating temp is now mainly controlled by oil chemsitry , not thickness.
This is a very complex subject , but that shud help
One final point , DONT use these cars on short journeys , turbo motors dilute their oil with fuel more than normal motors , and when the boost is upped even more so , if the car is used for 20 mile or longer trips the fuel dilution is evaporated so no problem , on short journeys it accumulates and thins the oil , not good !!

See Ya
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Okay, now that all sounds logical enough. But excuse the ignorance but what do you mean by turbo motors dilute their oil with fuel more than normal motors ??

This makes it sound as though the engines are motor mower 2 stroke ones???


Can you ellaborate for me please?

Cheers
Troy
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I've always used Castrol RS, but thought I'd try Magnatec after reading that someone ( Co-Ord/Ralliart I think) reccommend it.

I've never had a persistent rattle from tappets before, but it started as soon as I fitted the Magnatec !

I'll be changing back to RS as soon as I can get some !!

For what its worth, I'd suggest NOT using Magnatec
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Troy,
From a cold start when the fuel mixture is much richer , the fuel droplets in the air condense on the cylinder walls inside the engine. This will then combine with the oil and pass into sump before normal operating temp is reached. Turbo motors obviously have a higher combustion pressure , which causes the condensed droplets to be pushed past the ring to cylinder seal in greater quantity.
Engine oil chemistry is formulated to cope with this problem to a finite degree and some are better than others , however , if the car is habitually used on short journies the oil will become excessively diluted which will seriously reduce it's ability to protect the engine , this will result in severe wear.
As an extreme example , I know of a car, NOT an Evo , where an explosion occured due to the amount of fuel in the sump !!
Used on normal journies , the fuel does not accumulate as it evaporates at normal operating temp.
By the way droogs, if u are concerned with the survival of yr oil , u can have it anylised for evidence of the above problem and also impending mechanical doom by presence of certain metal deposits by sending a sample to labs specialising in the service, I'll find some details and post asap.

This week I shall mostly be using Redline oil !
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Evoboy

Turbo motors have higher combustion pressure than n/a cars - OK

But during warmup???

Surely nobody here uses much (if any) boost before the engine has attained something approaching correct temperature? This being the case, then according to your theory I'd reckon that turbo motors should actually suffer less from this oil dilution problem than many cars due to the lower compression ratio, no?

I'd be happy to stand corrected if this isn't the case.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Chunky,
U don't have to be using full boost or anything like it , point is fuel dilution is fact , it happens to any 4 stroke engine but on turbo's when any manifold pressure is present it will be worse that an atmo motor.
I warm up my pride and joy carefully but I cannot drive my car without the boost guage moving even from cold start , unless I make like a milk float uphill ,so thats life. Remember though , it's only a problem with short journey use. I had a female friend with a nice Fiesta or Nova type thing , and despite my advise she used the car for work , the distance was 2.2 miles !!!
and only pottered around at weekends , with the oil filler cap removed u wud swear it was the petrol tank not the engine !! If u have no choice but to use a car like this then change the oil every month.
Short journey use is the most arduous a car can be subjected too and apart from oil there are many other problems caused , eg sludging , corrosion etc.
So start up ,don't idle for more than say 20 secs, warm carefully and fully and enjoy.

Bi dudes
 
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