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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Just got back from Switzerland in the EVO.. it excelled itself on the peages, cruising at 120mph for long periods of time but feeling like about 75mph. The wife never thought we went over a ton.

Getting seriously into this car but I still have much to learn and have a number of questions. I realise that I could search for some answers and will do but if anyone can respond directly to any of these it would be a great help and education for me.

1. what is the safe redline (it says in the manual don't go into the red bit i.e. and amp;gt; 7000rpm)

2. Is the boost pressure greater the quicker you get on the throttle (like if you stamp on it) or is maximum boost always the same even if you progressively arrive at full throttle opening.

3. What are the tyre pressures for an EVO6 (standard)

4. What Oil should I use

5. I noticed that with the air conditiong on I periodically hear a click from the front of the car (and this is the fan coming on then going off) and sometimes this is accompanied by a slight dip in power like a small misfire. Is this normal ?

6. Is it true that after hard driving I should stop the car then just let it run to allow teh turbo to drain ?? How long should I leave it running for ?

7. Before I purchased, I test drove a Makinnen. In retrospect, I reckon that the Makinnen had much better steering. It was sharper and lower but best of all was the absence of teh GSR's very strong self-centring which I find can create a bit of a fight around corners. Travelling straight the Makinnen always seemed to need readjustment at teh helm which I liked (involvement factor etc..). If you know what I mean, what can be done to the GSR to make the steering like this ?


Richard M

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay quick answers as the full answers can be found with a search border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

1) The manual is right however BRIEF ventures into the red is acceptable.

2) Max Boost Pressure will be the same no matter how hard you stamp on the pedal (I wouldn't recommend stamping on it anyway!)

3) 32PSI Front (2.2Bar), 28PSI Rear (1.9Bar) but it also depends on your tyres and driving style.

4) 10W30 and no thinner.

5) Normal, the air con saps some power when it cuts in hence the slight 'stumble'.

6) Oil may burn and cause clogging of the turbo bearing if the turbo is very hot when stopped hence you should allow the oil and turbo to cool by driving off boost (i.e. less than 3,000rpm) for 3-4 miles before stopping. The second best option is to allow the engine to idle for 3-4 minutes before switching off.

7) The Makinen has the RS steering rack which is 2.2 turns lock to lock. The E6 GSR has the GSR rack which is 2.5 turns lock to lock. You can fit the RS rack if you want.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1/ The rev limiter is 7700 rpm , during acceleration I use this all the time but try to avoid actually hitting the limiter , I have familiarised myself with the engine note and can normally change by ear right at 77.
Basically u cannot drive the car hard enuf on public roads to stress the engine , track days are different tho , do lots of those and u may find engine rebuilds more frequent.
U may suffer premature engine wear if u cruised the car at the 77 regularly and continuously , but I don't think u wud have yr license long if u did.

2/ The boost map in the ecu will give different boost curves depending on conditions , but if u get on it right on the boost threshold in the right gear u may see high transient boost reading , but it wud soon fall back.

3/ 2.2 bar front , 1.9 bar rear , this info is on the drivers side b pillar.

4/ 10w30 synthetic , my personal recommendation is Redline.

5/ quite normal , thats the electro-magnetic clutch on the aircon compressor activating , the idle speed drops briefly with the extra load.

6/ The turbo shud be given time to cool down before turning off the engine , time varies with use , but at least 30 secs upto 1.5 minutes , that is if u've been idle in traffic for ages and then pull over and stop to coming off a motorway into services after cruising at 120 mph. However the best procedure is to try and drive at a moderate speed off boost for a few miles before stopping , this is also good for the brakes.

7/ Fit lowering springs a have the suspension geometry reset to fast road spec.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Use Castrol RS (10W60). The higher viscosity at high temperature is important for this type of turbo engine. Using thinner oils might cause insufficient lubrication at high temp.

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
See my previous posts on this , Mits advise 10w30 , viscosity is not the only factor for correct lubrication.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you are wasting time reving past 7k,you want to drop back into the torque in the next gear
if you come on boost with part throttle,the opening being smaller gives more of an in-gear hit
a turbo car is not like a high revving 16 valve nat asp motor,and you will find it more enjoyable to drive changing earlier and letting the boost do its stuff !
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