[Guest]

OK after the 3rd jump start already this year I've finally given in and admitted I need a new battery. My current one has a cranking value of 290A but never seemed as powerful as it needed to be, it ran out within 2 weeks max. when brand new, as little as 24hrs recently. I know the cat1 drains a fair bit but thats ridiculous. The battery and alternator are only 18 months old.

What amp rating does Mits recommend? What about the differences in the supposed 'cold climate pack'? What have you guys fitted?

 

[Guest]

Alarms don't consume much current , the thing that draws the most is the flashing LED!! but even this is only 30 ma or less.
Try and get a load test done on yr battery , if this indicates an expired battery then find the biggest cold crank amp rated battery that will fit in yr battery carrier with the correct terminal orientation , if u did have a battery problem this shud sort it.
You cud go for one of the super batteries intended for cars with mega audio sytems , Optima are good , expensive though http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
Might be worth checking the rest of the electrical system for excessive draw , in particular starter motors and solenoids can draw current even when not in use.

 

[Guest]

Is your car garaged chunky?

If so, get yourself a Draper Battery Mate, £ 19.99 from Halfords (Or if you know a tool company that stocks Draper they should be able to do it cheaper, paid £11.00 for mine through work!!

It has a direct fused link, 300mamp charge and can be left to the vehicle permanently!!(Take it off when you drive though!!!)

Work means that i can't drive my car every weekend, and i was finding that after about 10 days standing the bugger was flat, and thats in an insulated garage!!

Hope this is useful!

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the replies http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

At least I now know a lot more about batteries than I did 6 hours ago!

I was restricted by the fact I had to have one today (need the car tomorrow) and I had to use a local parts shop to get it (only place within walking distance).

Even though I was determined to get a better one I eventually got one the same as the old one, a type 54, 270CCA 50Ah RC. I had a big mutha looked out which fitted (400A 100RC) but the terminals were too big (never knew there were different sizes!) and I didn't have enough length in the existing cables to reterminate with bigger clamps. Also I would have needed a new battery clamp as the oem one is too narrow for a biiig battery even though the tray is big enough :\n
For now it'll do, but anyone in need of a new battery would do well to [URL]check out this guide[/URL] and look around for one that fits the form factor of the standard battery, but has more juice packed in. [URL]This is the only guide I could find to BCI-classified battery types (except 54 of course!) and even still doesn't have dimensions.[/URL]

 

[Guest]

Just to add to what was said about checking the drain on your battery.
My Mk1 MR2 started to drain the battery regularly. I whacked a meter on it and found the alarm was draining a bit so I disconnected it but it was still draining a lot from somewhere else. I eventually tracked it down to the stereo head unit! It had obviously developed a fault where it was still working perfectly but was draining excess current so much so that a fully charged (12 month old battery) would be dead after 2 days! I ripped the system out and fitted the old one and it was fine after that.
Batteries should last a minimum of 3 years and often you will get a warranty for that period (e.g. Halfords, they are well known for good batteries, about the only thing they are good for!). If you do get problems it is usually something else that is draining the system. Get someone with an ammeter to test your battery current drain with everything switched off. The most common fault is the boot interior light remaining on when the boot is closed. This can be due to a faulty switch or bent bracket not hitting the switch when the boot is closed.

 

[Guest]

My EvoIII rallycar uses a much bigger battery than standard, fits in the same space, and lasts forever (eg stood for a couple of months and then cranks for ages as the competition ECU tries to start a cold engine). I think the terminal size is bigger, and (mention this quietly...) a Subaru Legacy battery clamp fits perfectly(!)

 

[Guest]

hehe, thanks clive. I'm resigned to getting the bigger terminal clamps next time, its the only way to get a decent battery in there I reckon.

 

[Guest]

Hey Clive are you in the North Hampshire/Surrey area? It just that a saw a nice EIII rally car drive though Liphook back in November time, was that you?
I was behind it in my Mk1 MR2 and seeing it made my mind up on going for my E6!

 

[Guest]

No, South Cheshire. Must get round to registering as a Member so you will know these things, as the website hasn't crashed recently!

 

[Guest]

As I said on here before, the more I see E3's the more I like them....hmmmmm....E3 rally car....anyone want to buy my E6 GSR?

 

[Guest]

Just measured a PROTON battery, (similar to Evo 1/2/3 etc), terminals are 16 mm diameter, overall size 9 long x 6.5 wide x 8.5 deep.

 

[Guest]

Chunky,
If the battery went flat after 2 weeks while in constant use, I would suspect the alternator isn't charging sufficiently or maybe overcharging due to a regulator problem. If the car was idle for that length of time I would look for a current drain using an ammeter put in line with the battery terminal.

Jonathan

 

[Guest]

No, the battery would flatten after 2 weeks idle. Using it regularly I never had to jump it until recently.

Alternator brand new!

 

[Guest]

Chunky,

Don't want to state the obvious but...have you checked the battery warning light is still working. A lot of alternators use the circuit through this bulb to energise and start charging. If your bulb goes, so does your charging system