[Guest]

Simon

I am surprised you cannot tell AYC function. On my 6 TME, I can definitely feel it, it keeps the back from moving and induces understeer. A friend of mine was not convinced, thinking it is like an ESP without power cut off and in theory it should be good. I had to show him with a small driving demo how it worked, you could hear the clac clac in the back and the front grrrrr sliding outwards about 1 metre. This was going 100 kmh thru a 80 degree corner with full throttle. And I did not lighten the front on purpose.

AndrewN

I am sure 1,5 bars sustained feels great Which ECU are you running and how do you map it? Have you got a PC connected? I was going to get an FConV mapped but HKS are out of stock in Japan (where my dealer gets it from). He now talks about the Apexi Power FC with 16 different programs in it...

You are totally right about the alignment, I think I will have to open the front more, it is 1 mm outward I think, back 0. Running 2,3 degrees camber in the front, 1,9 (I think it was )in the back.

What height is yours? trying 396mm right now, but it feels to light at speeds above 120 kmh. Too high really. Std on my car was 380mm. I think I'll go to 375 or so.

 

[Guest]

Claudius

I suspect that in redoing the whole ACD/AYC control the response you talk about has gone. I cannot be sure, but I have now got the car drifting reasonable amounts in both the wet and dry and have never experienced a clac clac or the front suddenly sliding outwards. Possibly the new system, which does differ from the 6,actually works well! Have other 7 drivers experienced what Claudius is describing?

 

[Guest]

Claudius

I have the evolink, originally it came with a 1 bar map (slow) and from this point on i have mapped it myself. It includes electronic boost control so i can set the boost level every 500 rpm. Sorry all those who are paying tuners mega bucks but mapping it is a simple process with just a couple of teqniques. Basic technique is to use a straight peice of road, let it struggle up from and amp;lt;2000 revs and datalog it on laptop (capture serial data stream). The datalog will show performance, boost, knock level, injector levels, lambda, timing, etc. Then increase boost and dial out knock by adding fuel and/or reducing timing. (4500-5500 is worse for knock) I have run out of fuel now, going lean above 5000 so won't add any more boost till i've uprated or rewired the pump.

Also check egt doesn't go over about 900 (measured at manifold) - i have seen 950 due to going lean. Once you have got it running nicely without knocking at the boost level then drive around with it logging and then cross tab the lambda results. This will show any (relatively) rich or lean spots in the map. Aim for lean at cruise (40-80kpa absolute) going richer on full boost. As extra for experts can add fuel at and amp;lt;40kpa for als effect and remove all timing from spool up zones and amp;lt;3000 (said to give a faster spool but i haven't tried it yet)

Ride height - i am down 30 all around so should be down 20 compared to you but i get 318 wheel centre to inner lip of guard at back and 335 at the front. (add about 10 if measuring to front crease) where are u measuring to get 380??

Don't go for more toe out on the front as it toes out under braking anyway and you will stuff up the turn in(in fact i would set front to zero). Normally the trick is to go to zero toe at the back...but you are there already, ditto increasing camber at the back ... (this shouldn't help understeer but it does), um could try some toe out on the back - maybe 1 deg at a time (note to other readers - toe out at back is usually dangerous, don't try unless u know what you are doing) this may hurt high speed stability but should get it to fall into corners quite nicely...

simon

7 may well be different, sounds like it has less intrinsic understeer than the 6 which means u waste less time fooling about with wheel alignment

andrew

 

[Guest]

Claudius,

your parts dealer is telling you big piles of bullshit!! HKS haven't sold out of FCons!! You can get them shipped anywhere in Japan in two days, I bet he either hasn't contacted anyone or knows somebody who knows somebody in Japan. Also, the understeer that your experiencing because of the AYC is probably because of your wheel alignement. With my 2,5 front and 1,75 back the AYC keeps the car from oversteering (still ****) and not a hint of power-understeer. Try less camber in the back and your understeer problem should be solved.

 

[Guest]

I wish I had a laptop and a programmable ECU. And that I knew sthg about mapping...

Ride height is from the center of the wheel to the wing.

Always wanted to try toe out in the back! but as you say, lift off in a tight corner and you're gone!

 

[Guest]

My setup.

FRONT camber -2.5
FRONT toe out -0.5
REAR camber -1.1
REAR toe out -1.0

the car is lower than Claudius!

 

[Guest]

I also have an AYC equipped car and it likes to step out the backend especially with uprated power. Understeer is very rarely an issue it really depends on your driving style (drive a Scoob then you know what understeer is). My car also likes to do 4 wheel drifts. Maybe try some trail braking. What I found that fitting a rear strut brace makes it much less intrusive.

Concerning toe-out at the front. I once tried this but I didn' like it at all. On the Ring it spoiled my day as the car felt very twitchy under heavy braking and turn-in was not good as the wheels get splashed out under heavy braking so less grip. Changed back to toe-in and since then no probs. Even the WSM states that for track use you should increase toe-in at the front.

Cheers

Mike