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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys , ive recently bought a 7RS with an engine problem which turned out to be HG failure .....

Since this car was bought for track/hillclimb use we decided to forge the bottom end an fitted ARP headstuds an a HKS 1.2mm gasket to ensure it would be reliable for a few seasons .

I have done a search on what torque settings to use with the ARP headstuds but can only find info on the standard torque settings , which is 75lbsft correct ????

Can anybody tell me what settings we should use with the ARP head stud kit please , ive read 95lbsft some of the American guys use but seems alot to me ?

Cheers
Gav
 

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ARP studs

hi there i havent used any yet im after the same settings for my 2.4 i remeber a mate using some on a calibra turbo running 450 bhp and we done them up stupidly tight never had any lift never snaped any cos they are high tensile steel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The torque settings come in each pack. If you don't have them, we keep records of the popular kits.
Hi

The kit i had was bought a while back an lost the instructions an info which cam in the box , so would you be able to supply the torque settings please ????

I'm not sure what stud kit i have but would think its the normal uprated version :angel:

Do you have to use the special grease supplied aswell ,as read this makes a difference to the torque setting which can be used :shake:

Thanks
Gav
 

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you will find that most evo tuners/engine builders use higher torque ratings than that. Many had leaks with 70 ft lbs including myself.
 

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Torquing the studs higher than the values recommended by ARP's engineers presents several problems. The head can distort, the head can actually "crush" under the washer and torquing them higher can also give you LESS clamping force as you approach the fasteners yield strength.

If you are installing these with the proper lube and having problems then check your torque wrench ;)
 

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I used the arp lube with mine and 70 ft lbs and had a coolant leak. If a torque wrench in a workshop has a problem reading torque properly then all the cars leaving that place with rebuilt engines will have a headgasket leak. Besides, arp has updated their torque rates many times for different cars. I will be removing the cylinder head from my car when the new shortblock arrives so I will have to check if the cyl. head got distorted or not. I used 85 or 90 ft lbs I cant remember.
 

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Si Norris used 80lbsft when using ARP headstuds on my engine , i dont know if that is with moly assembley lube or without ?


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for unput lads ....

Anybody else have anymore views on this as there seems to be a difference in opinion an methods into why different torque settings to be used ???

Can anyone shed anymore light , maybe a few more tuners :D


Regards
Gav
 

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If you pull it more than recommended you are just that much closer to the yield strength of the stud, which you don't want. You also run the risk of distorting the head. If you question any of this or feel the need to inform yourself on fastener technology I urge you to please read the tech information that can be found in the ARP catalog. You may also reference the info on p.24 which I stated above.

http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf
 

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It is the same as clamping load, which is described as the force exerted by a tightened bolt/nut.

It is described as preload because this is not the peak force that is exerted on the stud. The stud doesn't experience the peak force until the engine is running and the stud must resist the pressure inside the cylinder and hold the head down. This is the time at which the stud sees the highest load.
 
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