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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope someone can help as i know just about nothing about ICE.

Want to run some components up front, some 6.5inch 2 ways at the rear and a small 8 inch sub in the boot.

The head unit is an Alpine CDA-9812RR

Right so I was going to use the head unit to run the rear 2 way speakers.

A Polk MOMO C300 amp to run the front components:

Power
Channels 2/1 (bridgeable)
Total Dynamic Power (all ch. driven) 850 watts
14.4 Volts RMS Not Bridged @ 1kHz
4 Ohms 150 watts x 2
2 Ohms 220 watts x 2
14.4 Volts RMS Bridged
4 Ohms 450 watts x 1

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Electrical
Signal-to-noise (Referenced to rated power) > 105 dBA
Remote Gain 0 to -30dB
Input Impedance > 10k Ohms
Output Impedance < 0.02 Ohms
Overall Frequency Response (-3 dB Points) 10Hz - 45kHz
Protection circuitry Power and ground reversal, Thermal and Short, Current Overdraw and Low Impedance Protection with auto stand-by mode

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Dimensions
Overall Dimensions (with panels) 2-1/2" H x 13" W x 9-3/4" D
(6.35cm H x 33.02cm W x 24.77cm D)
Product Weight 12.00 lbs.
Total Shipping Weight 13.50 lbs.

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Filter Settings
Subsonic Filter 24dB/oct @15Hz
High Pass Filter frequency 50Hz - 250Hz
High Pass Filter slope 18dB/octave
Low Pass Filter frequency 50Hz - 250Hz
Low Pass Filter slope 18dB/octave

A Polk MOMO C500 amp to run the sub

Power
Channels 1 MonoBlock
Total Dynamic Power (all ch. driven) 975 watts
14.4 Volts RMS Not Bridged @ 1kHz
4 Ohms 350 watts x 1
2 Ohms 500 watts x 1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Electrical
Signal-to-noise (Referenced to rated power) > 105 dBA
Remote Gain 0 to -30dB
Input Impedance > 10k Ohms
Output Impedance < 0.02 Ohms
Overall Frequency Response (-3 dB Points) < 10Hz to 200Hz
Protection circuitry Power and ground reversal, Thermal and Short, Current Overdraw and Low Impedance Protection with auto stand-by mode

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dimensions
Overall Dimensions (with panels) 2-1/2" H x 11" W x 9-3/4" D
(6.35cm H x 27.94cm W x 24.77cm D)
Product Weight 10.00 lbs.
Total Shipping Weight 12.00 lbs.

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Filter Settings
Subsonic Filter 24dB/Octave @ 15Hz
Low Pass Filter frequency 30Hz to 200Hz
Low Pass Filter slope 12 or 24dB/Octave

Is that all I need????

I was going to uprate the std Mitsi battery to something a little more powerfull.

Any help would be much appreciated before I go and buy this little lot!

I have asked similar questions before but this time it is defo getting bought so thought I would make sure i have it all right.

Thanks

Matt
:)
 

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Leonard said:
Masses of meaningless mumbo jumbo
Yes, but how does it sound? I could quote you very impressive specs for say, a spectrum chromatograph, but it wouldn't sound very good.

It sounds like you intend spending a decent amount of money there, it's not worth deciding on brand and specs alone. You should expect to a good dealer to let you hear these type of components in cars and let you decide on what sounds best. Any dealer who can't arrange this level of service is not worth your cash IMHO, so shop around until you find one you are happy with. You'll be a lot happier in the long run :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Re: Are these the Amps i need?????

chunky said:
Yes, but how does it sound? I could quote you very impressive specs for say, a spectrum chromatograph, but it wouldn't sound very good.

It sounds like you intend spending a decent amount of money there, it's not worth deciding on brand and specs alone. You should expect to a good dealer to let you hear these type of components in cars and let you decide on what sounds best. Any dealer who can't arrange this level of service is not worth your cash IMHO, so shop around until you find one you are happy with. You'll be a lot happier in the long run :)
I know what your saying m8 but i dont intend on spending a lot of money and i am no audiophile. Just want a decent discreet system to finish the car off. Planning to get amps, sub and components for less than £400 and its all quality stuff that you would pay around £1200 for from a dealer. Will need to pay someone to set it up though as I'm pants with electronics:blush:
I more or less just want to know that those amps will do what i want em to :confused:
 

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Leonard said:
In my experience they are only helpfull when your buying the stuff off them ;)

Which is fair enough :)
Well pretend you are gonna buy it off them then!! :eek:

You didnt mention the impeadance of the 6.5 speakers or sub that you are planning to use? This will have a bearing on how loud they will sound and how much of a 'burden' they will be for the amps to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
martincarew said:
Well pretend you are gonna buy it off them then!! :eek:

You didnt mention the impeadance of the 6.5 speakers or sub that you are planning to use? This will have a bearing on how loud they will sound and how much of a 'burden' they will be for the amps to drive.
:D Too late just bought em, bet they dont fit :frust: Told you I know nothing about this stuff :crackup:

Speakers are Polk MOMO again:

Electrical
Lower -3dB Limit 50 Hz
Upper -3dB Limit 20 kHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Recommended
Amplifier Power 25 -150w
Power Handling (continuous) 150 w
Power Handling (peak) 250 w
Efficiency 87 dB
Crossover Second order Butterworth @ 3500 Hz
Crossover
(switch position A) 0dB, -3dB, -6dB tweeter level switch
Crossover
(switch position B) low pass filter bypass allows driver to run full-range
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 1-1/2" (3.81cm)
Voice Coil Diameter: Tweeter 1" (2.54cm)
Magnet Weight 14.40 oz.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Driver Mounting Depth
Top Mount 2-13/16" (7.14cm)
Bottom Mount 3-1/16" (7.78cm)
Grille
Height 15/16" (2.38cm)
Diameter 7-1/4" (18.41cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 5-13/16" (14.76cm)
Tweeter Cut-out Diameter 2-3/16" (5.56cm)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Theile/Small Parameters
Resonant Frequency 50 Hz
Qms 9.58
Qes 0.67
Qts 0.62
Vas 14.61 L / .515 cu ft
Cms 493 Micro Meters
Bl 5.8 Tesla Meters
Sd 145 sq cm / 22.48 sq in
Winding Width 12.4 mm / .488 in
Xmax (linear) 3.2 mm / .126 in
Xmax (mechanical) 15.2 mm / .600 in
Le .313 mH
Mms 19.8 g
Driver Weight 4 Pounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sub is just a little one as I want to fit it in the spare wheel well if possible and dont want or need a load of bass anyway. Plus dont want anything real heavy weighing the car down :blah: Guess I should lose some weight as well really :eek: :D

Driver Complement
Woofer 1 - 8" Diameter (20.32cm)
Metalized (aluminum) Polypropylene Dynamic Balance cone

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Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 26-200 Hz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Minimum Impedance 3.25 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 200 w
Power Handling (peak) 400 w
Efficiency 85 dB
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 1-1/2" (3.81cm)
Magnet Weight 25.00 oz.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Driver Mounting Depth
Top Mount 4-1/4" (10.79cm)
Bottom Mount 4-9/16" (11.59cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 7-1/16" (17.94cm)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Theile/Small Parameters
Recommended Enclosure Sealed, Ported, or Bandpass
Resonant Frequency 43 Hz
Qms 6.80
Qes 0.66
Qts 0.6
Vas 0.624 cu. ft. / 17.66L
Sd 34.72 sq.in. / 224 sq.cm.
Xmax (linear) .30 / 7.5 mm
Xmax (mechanical) .71 in. / 18 mm
Le 1.94 mH
Driver Weight 9 lbs / 19.8 kg
 

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Sry for the delay in reply! Been a tad pre-occupied!

Head unit – fine gd choice – it has a gd clean sonic signature and a decent pre amp stage.

Rear speakers – DON’T INSTALL THEM! – Various reasons why:

- they pull your stage height down – when listening to car audio it should sound as though the instruments and singers are placed approx 3” above your dash board – because the speaker location in evos are pants to start of with you’d have to install your mids in the doors and tweeters on the a pillar – approx 4” from the bottom – facing out towards the bonnet slightly. When you install rear speakers it pulls the stage further back from the dash more towards the centre concel.
- They create a muddiness to your tonal accuracy – you will finds this mainly on male vocals.

Amp for the speakers – seems fine – I cant seem to find the current draw figures on it – very important to see this – this is what determines how much current the amplifier needs to deliver the power that the manufacture states: ie if the amp runs 1000w rms @ 1 ohm it mush use 60 amp for example – if you can only deliver 50 amps into the amp you will only get a ratio of the current with the ohmage.

Amp for the sub seams dandy too.

Sub – is far too small for an evo – although you say you only require a small amount of bass – by the time you get the 8” woofer to perform it will be distorting – mainly because ef the distance it has to travel. You would be much better off with either a 10” or my suggestion a 12”. – weight wise I very much doubt you’ll tell the difference in the car!

Only thing left that you missed is dynomat – a necessity in Evos – the door panels are very poor for letting sound out – you must deaden the panel to allow a better transfer.

And when setting the car up – I’d suggest to run the drivers side mid out of phase – it will focus your centre stage a lot better.

If you need more info give me a shout : Manjit : 0191 2612445
 

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BuLldOg said:
Sry for the delay in reply! Been a tad pre-occupied!

Head unit - fine gd choice - it has a gd clean sonic signature and a decent pre amp stage.

Rear speakers - DON'T INSTALL THEM! - Various reasons why:

- they pull your stage height down - when listening to car audio it should sound as though the instruments and singers are placed approx 3" above your dash board - because the speaker location in evos are pants to start of with you'd have to install your mids in the doors and tweeters on the a pillar - approx 4" from the bottom - facing out towards the bonnet slightly. When you install rear speakers it pulls the stage further back from the dash more towards the centre concel.
- They create a muddiness to your tonal accuracy - you will finds this mainly on male vocals.

Amp for the speakers - seems fine - I cant seem to find the current draw figures on it - very important to see this - this is what determines how much current the amplifier needs to deliver the power that the manufacture states: ie if the amp runs 1000w rms @ 1 ohm it mush use 60 amp for example - if you can only deliver 50 amps into the amp you will only get a ratio of the current with the ohmage.

Amp for the sub seams dandy too.

Sub - is far too small for an evo - although you say you only require a small amount of bass - by the time you get the 8" woofer to perform it will be distorting - mainly because ef the distance it has to travel. You would be much better off with either a 10" or my suggestion a 12". - weight wise I very much doubt you'll tell the difference in the car!

Only thing left that you missed is dynomat - a necessity in Evos - the door panels are very poor for letting sound out - you must deaden the panel to allow a better transfer.

And when setting the car up - I'd suggest to run the drivers side mid out of phase - it will focus your centre stage a lot better.

If you need more info give me a shout : Manjit : 0191 2612445
AN EXPERT BY LOOKS OF THINGS!! :D

Just a thought but why not stick to 2 ways for the front and bolt 2 subs to the rear shelf to keep your stage in the front where you will be sat? Thats what mine has and it sounds awesome!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Manjit you are a star, will definately give you a call when all the bits arrive. Are you actually in the ICE business or just an avid user????? Thanks also to Martin :D

Glad you say the bits and pieces are all ok as they have all been bought :D Well apart from the sub so I may look at a 10" whopper :eek:

The rears are fitted at the moment as we bought these at the same time as the headunit so it has some JBL centenary special edition 2 ways in the 'parcel shelf' at the moment. They sound good but as you say they completely over power the front at the moment. Is it not possible to leave them in and just dial out the rearward sound using the head unit??? :confused:

Anyway thanks again

Matt
:)
 

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yes I'm in the iCE trade - I own a company(been in the trade over 15 years) that mainly installs car audio products for IASCA use (International Auto Sound Challenge Association).

Now I mainly PR, write review and talk a load of shite! lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BuLldOg said:
yes I'm in the iCE trade - I own a company(been in the trade over 15 years) that mainly installs car audio products for IASCA use (International Auto Sound Challenge Association).

Now I mainly PR, write review and talk a load of shite! lol
Nice one sounds like a cool job :) :cool:

Could you recommend anyone/company to fit it for us in the Midlands area, we are about 20 mins from Derby/Sheffield and Nottingham.

Matt
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bex said:
Leonard I hope you have not made me purchase bits that we know don't require/aren't any good :confused:

Next time lets ask the questions first and then buy the goods :rolleyes: :)

Bex :angel:
Bex trust me I'm errrr a professional :D professional what is a whole different matter
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BuLldOg said:
Sheffield use Source sounds - Ask for Paul Ellis - tell him I sent you.

Or Music World - Ask for Steve the sheep shagger - Tell him I sent you!

Derby - no idea

Notts - No idea

Newcastle upon Tyne! ME!!!
Hi m8

Paul at Source Sounds sounds good although I am tempted to call Steve the sheep shagger :crackup:

If I can make it up to lovely Newcastle then I will definately give you a call :coolsm:

Cheers again

Matt
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BuLldOg said:
Sheffield use Source sounds - Ask for Paul Ellis - tell him I sent you.

Or Music World - Ask for Steve the sheep shagger - Tell him I sent you!

Have you got any contact details for the above please Manjit, cant seem to find their details anywhere online :confused:

Cheers

Matt
:)
 
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