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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started to clean down the underside of my 7 a few months ago. I firstly degreased, cleaned and salt remover and washed off all dirt/grime. Then I strip back with a wire wheel as best I could and used phos kleen. Any bits that reacted I used salt remover to remove salts and redid with a scotchbrit pad and more PHOS-KLEEN. See photos below for evidence (top photo was how it reacted and bottom photo by was an hour later cleaned back down and rephos.

Problem I'm having it tends to keep reacting and I can't get my head around why. Only thing is I'm working out of a damp, cold, shed. Nearly contemplating cleaning down an area and painting it with grey primer every time I do a big bit. So frustrating.

Any advice appreciated. Also I have read numerous articles regarding this stuff.



Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper

Tire Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Automotive lighting Grille
 

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Yes I’ve used it. First and foremost I found it much better to clean it down after with thinners and scotch brite as it reacted with the salt remover.
Your biggest issue is where you’re doing the work, you need to calculate dew point, this is done by air temp, metal temp and humidity levels. The last thing you want is the metal surface to reach see point and sweet, otherwise your coating will fail every time. Prepped right and in the right conditions it’s fantastic stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know exactly what you mean. The shed I'm in doesn't have a damp proof walls or floor and has a tin roof so it's probably the worst place to work at a car tbh. I have a gas heater but only use it when I'm in. Would you say I'm wasting my time cause of the damp?

Would heating the metal up and painting it as soon as I've it cleaned down be an option? I'd only be putting a light primer coat on it then come warm weather when I've the car completely done I was going to use the 1-2-1 mystic rustbuster do.

Was yours a heated garage the time you restored you Evo?
 

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Don’t bother with a primer. Use the 1-2-1 straight on to the phosphated metal. Are you spraying it on? Don’t use a gas heater it will throw even more moisture in the air.

your absolute Best Buy will be a dehumidifier, that’s the key. Alongside air flow, I also used a fan heater . For the size of the job I would be taking my time, even if the garage is damp (to a point) a dehumidifier on all the time with airflow will be fine. I used the heater for when I was spraying, so put it on an hour beforehand and turned off around an hour after. But you really do need to calculate dew point, otherwise you’re just guessing.

On the rust website there are some really really helpful tutorials which I would advise reading. I learnt so much from them.
 

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Just to add, I phosphated mine and left it 6 months. So best thing is to strip everything you’re going to strip and phosphate the lot. Then as you say wait till the weather is much warmer, dew point will be much easier to avoid . As I said don’t rush, you will regret it. It’s a crap job, even crapper if you have to do it again!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don’t bother with a primer. Use the 1-2-1 straight on to the phosphated metal. Are you spraying it on? Don’t use a gas heater it will throw even more moisture in the air.

your absolute Best Buy will be a dehumidifier, that’s the key. Alongside air flow, I also used a fan heater . For the size of the job I would be taking my time, even if the garage is damp (to a point) a dehumidifier on all the time with airflow will be fine. I used the heater for when I was spraying, so sput it on an hour beforehand and turned off around an hour after. But you really do need to calculate dew point, otherwise you’re just guessing.

On the rust website there are some really really helpful tutorials which I would advise reading. I learnt so much from them.
Yeah I was planning on spraying it on with my air compressor once I had the whole underside complete, but if I was only doing bit by bit I could just paint it on then finish with two coats sprayed on when it's finished.

Really didn't even know that. I thought it would have dried the shed out abit.

The shed I'm working out of is big enough to fit ten cars in. It's two big sliding doors at the front so plenty of air flow can get in to circulate.

Must take another look through rustbuster for some more tips on this. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just to add, I phosphated mine and left it 6 months. So best thing is to strip everything you’re going to strip and phosphate the lot. Then as you say wait till the weather is much warmer, dew point will be much easier to avoid . As I said don’t rush, you will regret it. It’s a crap job, even crapper if you have to do it again!!
That's what my intentions were. I've bits of welding to get done aswell so really wanted to get the underneath cleaned down then could see all the spots needing welded. The rear chassis leg has flaking rust in on of them. Hopefully won't need to get new chassis legs welded in. Was thinking of using some of dintrol products for inside of the rails and sills.

I'd like to have the car fully completed within 6 months tbf. But a proper job needs to be well thought out so it will last for years.

You still got your Evo now? Love to see a few pics of the underside. Thanks for the advice bud 👍🏻
 

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Here you go mate have a read of this , loads of pics seem to of disappeared though 😩👎 I’m happy to e mail you a load of you want though 👍


Sounds like it’s a huge place you’re in, rather than trying to heat the whole place can you get a pop up tent? Airflow is key mate 100% temperature isn’t as important. It’s all down to humidity to a point. Best bet is to wait till the warmer months .
 

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One other thing, read up on “stripe coating” before you spray .. Also filling up the rails with wax is a good idea , just make sure you’re 100% done as any future welding it can catch a light which is obviously not a good idea, plus and painting after will be a nightmare. Make the wax your absolute last thing to do
 

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That last pic looks ok to me, I found the salt remover made it rust, partly as it is water based and also you have to rinse off the cleaner with water. Even on a hot sunny day. In the end I just painted over the phosclean after any crust was scotch brited off as it creates an unreactive layer of iron phosphate which is extra protection, though I think @Mita s idea of using solvents is probably better as it will give you a better adhesion to the metal surface
 

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Don’t bother with a primer. Use the 1-2-1 straight on to the phosphated metal. Are you spraying it on? Don’t use a gas heater it will throw even more moisture in the air.

your absolute Best Buy will be a dehumidifier, that’s the key. Alongside air flow, I also used a fan heater . For the size of the job I would be taking my time, even if the garage is damp (to a point) a dehumidifier on all the time with airflow will be fine. I used the heater for when I was spraying, so put it on an hour beforehand and turned off around an hour after. But you really do need to calculate dew point, otherwise you’re just guessing.

On the rust website there are some really really helpful tutorials which I would advise reading. I learnt so much from them.
Learned something good today! Thanks
 
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