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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What doesnt work on the tester ? can you not swap it for another or was it 2nd hand ?

Cheers
Ian
it was a brand new sealey tester, so it has been returned and replaced, but when speaking to sealey i got the impression they have had a lot of these faulty, i just dont want to strip it all down to find this 1 is the same as the last

Stu

the leakdown guage went off the scale (ie negative leak) well before the tester reached the working pressure
 

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Phil
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Stu

I've just ordered one of these. and all being well i'm going to get neverneverman to test my engine next week. I'm sure he'd be happy to share info on how and how well it works etc. After that, if you're still having problems, you can use my tester. Also, once you get some results it would be really interesting to compare the results with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stu

I've just ordered one of these. and all being well i'm going to get neverneverman to test my engine next week. I'm sure he'd be happy to share info on how and how well it works etc. After that, if you're still having problems, you can use my tester. Also, once you get some results it would be really interesting to compare the results with mine.
cheers :smthumbup is it a sealey 1 you have ordered?

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
exactly the same as the 1 i bought, off the same seller

When you get it, just check the fitting that goes in the spark plug holes will fit in the adapters that come with the kit, the thread on mine was badly cut, and wouldn't thread up, so i spoke to sealey who sent me a replacement straight out, but if its not checked and is faulty, it would stop the test

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the warning - I'll give the trader a ring and make sure they check this before despatch:)
not sure if they will, as the case is sealed in a wrap, but to be fair sealey got a good replacement out FOC within a day or 2

Stu
 

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Phil
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I've sent the trader a message. Hopefully mine will be OK. Please post up or PM your results and what you think your problem might be. I'm trying to determine whether possible valve float may have led to the valves and seats being damaged and not sealing properly.
 

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do the first leakdown with everything still in place, compare the results before stripping off the manifolds,
I have made this mistake several times, and not needed to remove anything in the end, but had already stripped off inlet and exhaust manis so i could hear where the air was comming from. both times it was valvetrain related :-(

I have a Snap on tester which i could /still could have loaned you
 

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got the same tester myself last week...haven't had a chance to use it....but if somebody could put up a guide and tips on using one it would be appreciated :smthumbup
 

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Like how the green section goes up to 40% leakage!!

I'd tear anything that leaked more than 20% but the best thing about a leakdown test is that you can find out where it leaking

My method was remove spark plugs, turn engine over so relevant piston is at TDC, remove pipe to throttle body , remove oil cap, get a helper to hold the crankshaft nut to stop the motor turning or brace it somehow, pressurise the cylinder to 50 psi check gauge to measure leakdown (@50psi you double the reading) and then listen at the throttle body , oil filler and exhaust to see what you can hear and therefore where the air is escaping

Some people pressurise at 100psi its a personal choice
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
i've just noticed now they have revised the instructions from the first set i got, as i kept the old instructions

old instructions first, then new, and then some pics of the kit

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm trying to determine whether possible valve float may have led to the valves and seats being damaged and not sealing properly.
funnily enough i am thinking along those lines, what cams and springs / retainers are you using?

Stu
 

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i've just noticed now they have revised the instructions from the first set i got, as i kept the old instructions

old instructions first, then new, and then some pics of the kit

Stu
thats the kit i got...did the 2 silver nut things come with your kit cos all i got was the part with 2 gauges.the hose to goes to the plug and the 2 adapters
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
thats the kit i got...did the 2 silver nut things come with your kit cos all i got was the part with 2 gauges.the hose to goes to the plug and the 2 adapters
ahh, well spotted, no, they are adapters, the same as the kit comes with, i bought an extension too, which came with its own adapters

which version of the instructions did you get, as they change from 4.2.5 onwards

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well, i dont think i have had much success with this, i struggled to set the tester to a point where it would constantly hold 0 on the set point on the guage, so i got it as near as i could, the left had guage at this point only read 10 or 12 psi

I tested each cylinder in turn, and all ranged from 32 to 37%, by the instructions 20% is equivelent to a cylinder that is not leaking, and upto 40% on the guage is 'good'

i really dont know if this tester has worked as it should as i have never done a leakdown before, but even though the figures were similar, the second cylinder from the flywheel, i felt i could hear the air going in more (not particularily in the manifolds as such, just the air going in), i couldn't hear anything from the manifold, exhaust, dip stick tube, and no bubbles in the coolant

what concerns me is with it set up as above, and the pipe not connected to the plug hole, the guage didn't go round to the 100% mark as i would have expected

Stu
 

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Phil
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funnily enough i am thinking along those lines, what cams and springs / retainers are you using?

Stu
Cams are Tomei 260s, but no idea whether the springs/retainers are anything other than standard. Engine is currently producing around 370atf, but when originally put into its current configuration back on 2002/2003 I have graphs indicating well in excess of 400atf. The power curve rises pretty well until around 5500rpm but flattens out rather than continuers rising - thus the suggestion that valve float could be occurring. But rather than simply replace the springs, I'm told I need to check that valve float has damaged to valves and or valve seats such that they might not be able to seal fully.

No sure what if any relevance this might have, but the vacuum pressure at idle is showing around -0.4 bar and there's currently another thread around at present that suggests this value should be higher (ie bigger negative value). I wondered if there might be some connection.
 
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