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Discussion Starter #3
Oh god moses... this is the funniest response from you so far :D

T1000 - try one of the rally prep outfits like ADR or EARS - surely they must know someone
 
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Discussion Starter #4
T1000

Is it an RS shell? I thought there was an option of a lightweight body. At first I thought it was just thinner panels but somebody told me that it was acid dipped. Don't know if its true but might be worth looking into.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
:D what do u mean blade that is a funny thing acid dipped what the hell is that just curious im glad it made u laugh :D still phoning jenny mate ;) wicked lol :D
 
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Discussion Starter #6
My advice is don't do it unless you intend to scrap it in 3 years.

They just rot away from the inside out after dipping. No one ever paints every last little bit properly after dipping. All those hidden box sections are left unprotected.

Why do you need to save weight this badly?

There must be other ways you can make things lighter.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Lightspeed

Its what you do when you build a rally car, which is what I assume T1000 is doing. I would guess it is good for 70-100 kgs, but don't leave it in the acid for too long ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I understand that - but personally I don't like it. They do rust! I have personal experience of this.

I'd keep the stiffness and strength of the thicker shell and lose the weight elsewhere.

T45 cage/lightest seats/belts/wheels/brakes/lightweight loom/fasteners/brackets/jack/extinguisher/dash/tank/plumbing.

And keep the weight low. Anthing that can be lower in the car - place it lower.

Maybe dip the boot and doors - but not the shell.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
wouldn't it be better to start with an E6 in the first place, as they're lighter (unless I got my figures wrong)?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Yes it is a Gp N rally car built from RS donor car (it is too much of a hassle to build one from a GSR model)

We have learnt a lot of things about the E7 so far and want to make a lot of fabrication changes when we rebuild it at the ends of the season... so the idea is that we dip it to get a nice bare metal shell to refabricate and save about 50 kg in the process.

In a Gp N rally car 50kg is an awful lot of weight to save...!!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
It isn't common practice to dip rally shells these days as a minimum weight must be maintained for the vehicle as a whole.

I believe the latest method is to use plastic bead blasting to clean the shells of any excess paint, sealer etc...
 
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Discussion Starter #13
T1000

While I am sure you don't want to give away your secrets, can you please share with us some of what you have learnt and what you think might help road/ track cars.

Many thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Don't forget that some of the shell is structurally bonded these days.

Listed as a stiffening method for the E6 improvement over the E5.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
would contact HARRY HOCKLEY not ADR OR EARS . you need some one who builds cars for works teams . personal i would not dip the shell because of the new adhesives used . save your money last i heard was it cost around £600 to have the shell acid dipped . there are loads of simple a free things to do first. what sort of a gap are you trying to make up or gain ????? seconds per km etc . why not just get better fuel and tryes !!!!!!!!
 
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