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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

Is there a stock frame turbo that can deliver a driveable (and not a pub talk spiky map) 500/500 on a forged 2.0 engine (pistons and rods), 272 (or similar) cams, with OE crank on the standard manifold with just an intank single walbro for fuelling on say 750/880cc injectors without having to have headwork or an intake plenum ?

If this does not exist or if any of the above would be a bad idea, what's the closest I can get to 500/500 without going for a turbo that needs a tubular manifold

Or is the smallest turbo to deliver this on 2.0 going to be a GT3076R which will mean a tubular manifold ?

regards

Raj
 

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I dont think a GT3076 will make 500 torque on a 2.0 (2.3 maybe), they tend to hit ~460-480 on pump fuel.
 

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GT3076 isn't a stock frame turbo.

I'd be concerned over how hard you have to run any of the modified stock frame turbos to get those figures, particularly for lots of track use. I prefer a larger turbo running it more within itself.
 

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Surely if an evored can run 9s in the states with terminals of 145mph, it must be running serious power. If you take the additional engine work and race fuel out of the equation, I suspect it will still be making the numbers you are after.
 

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Gav
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Surely if an evored can run 9s in the states with terminals of 145mph, it must be running serious power. If you take the additional engine work and race fuel out of the equation, I suspect it will still be making the numbers you are after.
:lol:Dont even go there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm since the largest stress my car will get will be on track .. then instead of running a stock frame turbo to within an inch of it's life for 10-15 mins at a time ... would it be better for reliability to run a larger frame turbo ?

what's the safest power level to run a stock frame turbo at ? would I be better off aiming for 450/450 to allow a wider safety margin ?
 

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Raj, there's a lot of people chasing figures and 1/4 mile times with hybrid turbos, but not seen many that are used for regular trackdays. You know how hard you drive your car and how long you like to stay on track, so factor that in.

I've ran modified turbos at 2 bar plus for years and sustained hard use got through them pretty quick. In theory a larger turbo run less hard will produce the same BHP, but should last longer. OK, it won't produce the same peak torque, but how low do you let revs drop on a track anyway? What's the point of having lots of peak torque at 3500rpm when you hardly let the revs drop less than 5000rpm.

Just my opinon and not scientific at all, but worth considering IMO :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the post Dave :)

well depending on what happens when my RIP engine is opened up later this week ... I'm hoping to stay 2.0 and use drop in rods n pistons and then i might as well bolt on a "better" standard frame turbo and run it without tubular manifold, headwork or intake plenum and keep my AYC rear diff ... and then next year when finances allow I'll go for a mahoosive turbo and get an RS rear diff with all the supporting mods

if running stock frame turbo means that i need to run shorter sessions on track then fine ... if it means I need an EGT gauge, then fine too ... I'm not sure how hard I do push the car ? is anyone able to comment ?

but hey .. the whole block could be dead and I'll need to change my plans

*sighs*

lol
 

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What does stock frame turbo mean? I assumed it meant a different turbo using the standard mani?
 

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What does stock frame turbo mean? I assumed it meant a different turbo using the standard mani?
It basically means stock frame appearance, ie EVO 9 turbo has diff internals to make it a FP Green/FP Red. These are stock frame turbos as is TT S205 etc.

John

:smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok maybe I need to change my question ... I'll consider any turbo that is a direct replacement of the 8MR turbo so that I can use my existing OE cast mainfold and my Magnex modular 3" downpipe

Tomei or S205 or Evo Red seem all be mentioned .... any others I should be considering ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
when I spoke to Lenny at Brands it seemed to be several months away when he expected to get everything fitted ... or is he being a trickster as usual ? :p

if I'm going to be buying a secondhand 9 turbo only to sell (admittedly at not much of a loss) why not just buy another stock frame turbo and get the use out of it ... since isn't everyone in agreement that a 9 turbo isn't capable of running within 50hp of a Evo Red, S205 etc ....

am I right in thinking that most of the stock frame turbos are no more than 500rpm slower spooling to 2 bar and should give 50-75hp more than a 9 turbo ? and i'll not run more than 2 bar boost to preserve the reliability of the turbo ?
 

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Because you may find once you have the 9 turbo fitted that you're happy with the power and don't REALLY want an upgrade;). If you buy a Red and then go to sell it you'll lose alot more than selling on a 9 tubby.

Don't follow the crowd with the numbers game for what you do a 9 turbo may well be the ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
hmmm I'm torn between the wife's kitchen budget friendlier choice of a second hand 9 turbo (would it be 71 or 80 ?) and the pub figures friendly version of an Evo Red / S205 etc ...

I'll speak to Mark when the engine has been opened and see what options there are for me ... I really hope I can use drop ins and not have to have the bores machined

I would cross my fingers but I've not been lucky recently

:(

*sighs*
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
... but if I need a tubular manifold then I'll take the cheapo option of getting a 9 turbo and using the OE manifold and then have a think if I want to go to more power next year

what's the limiting factor of the OE cast manifold ?
 
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