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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had a quick search but would like some more advice.

Im having drop in rods/pistons....what is the running in procedure?

Anyone had similar done?
 

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you will get loads of different opinions jim, just go with whoever builds it obviously if you do that, you have some comeback if you get any issues.

personally i do about 50 miles/1hour vary the load all the time drop the oil and replace for mineral still and thats it, rag it, if its going to break its going to break, there is a good document on it somewhere ill see if i can find it

this it was this one, or most of it :)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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What does the builder advise? If you choose the deviate from the recommended procedure, what happens if it goes wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They are probably going in next week so i was going to ask him then, I honestly forgot all about it tbh becasue it was initially going to have rod-job which if im mistaken doesn't need much or any running in?

Ill ask him, but I thought id post to see who did what and how its run since.
 

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rod job for me almost certainly :)

its the reliability of northys 260 thats leaning me in that direction, combined with the lack of running in needs.....

(waits for gray to shoot me down about rod jobs :lol: but thats my thought train!)
 

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rod job for me almost certainly :)

its the reliability of northys 260 thats leaning me in that direction, combined with the lack of running in needs.....

(waits for gray to shoot me down about rod jobs :lol: but thats my thought train!)
i'd still be wary there yet to be proven long term in a proper evo :blush::crackup:
 

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You pick a tuner you make a choice, it's simple:)

Sent you an email btw Nick:smthumbup

rod job for me almost certainly :)

its the reliability of northys 260 thats leaning me in that direction, combined with the lack of running in needs.....

(waits for gray to shoot me down about rod jobs :lol: but thats my thought train!)
 

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LOLZ which email addy gray? pm ;) i dont check the registered email evolution @ it gets spammed to death :(


GOT IT SCRATCH THAT!!
 

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you not got it back yet jim whats he doin id be going mad at him by now shouldhave been no more than a week
 

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i'd still be wary there yet to be proven long term in a proper evo :blush::crackup:
<b!tchslaps paul> :shake:

well my pistons are better than the average GSR's thats already proven :rolleyes:

go buy urself an evo before getting all gobby :crackup::p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you not got it back yet jim whats he doin id be going mad at him by now shouldhave been no more than a week
Had some probs with Pistons I was gonna use Gus, plus I told him I was in no rush mate, better in his garage than on drive here, been working a lot so wouldn't have had any use.....chomping at bit a little now though.

God knows how im gonna get running in miles on clock with hours I work...:eek:
 

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30 miles on mineral oil varying the load, few uphill blats etc (I did this on actuator pressure), then drop the oil to get rid of the initial sh*te from the build etc. Then did 120 miles on fresh mineral oil (1.3 bar peaking), drop the oil, more fresh mineral oil for another 100 miles (1.6 bar peaking). Then put the good stuff straight in and went mapping!!
Just done brands hatch yesterday with only 450 miles on her since the build (1.9 bar peaking) and she hasn't missed a beat, hasn't used a drop of oil either:)
 

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Put proper running in oil in it ! not just ordinary mineral oil. (that's for later)

Don't nabby panby it, it needs boost and revs from the outset. The first 20 miles are critical on a road break in , give it some beans and engine break it as much as possible. *that's initial break in completed* Drop oil and change on to a basic mineral oil. Lots of different opinions from this point but i ran mine on basic mineral oil for 1500 miles before changing to fully synthetic. Keep an eye on the oil and change it when ever you feel it's necessary.

Most importantly "drive like you normally would" and enjoy :smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
bloody mixed thoughts here.............

As it stands it looks like it with have normal feking oil in when I drive it out...which im not sure is best......so the plan would to use it up and down the revs for 30-40 mile and then switch to mineral oil.......decent idea?
 
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