[Tim M]

Are these worth anything? Believe B16 Bilsteins that aren't available any longer. Unsure if they are rebuildable. At least one is 'blown' although no oil is present on the outside...





Going for the alignment tomorrow - new ecentric hardware install in the rear and fron lowered to a safe point, we believe. Looking for -2 camber in front with zero toe, -1.5 in the rear with slight toe in. We will see what the Evo specialist recommends.



Interesting, when I pulled the front tires off - I noticed this:





And the other tire:





That is not normal and was not cut by debris. First time I've seen this...may contact the distributor and get their opinion...bummer.

 

[donner]

When installing E7-9 kit to E4-6, rear suspension has different setting for height. It is very low on rear with E7-9 settings. Öhlins has manual for this application.

https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/Ohlins_DTC_mounting-instruction-oehlins-automotive-miz--00002794.pdf

 

[evo/nut]

Are these worth anything? Believe B16 Bilsteins that aren't available any longer. Unsure if they are rebuildable. At least one is 'blown' although no oil is present on the outside...

Everything has a value stick them on ebay see how you do

 

[Tim M]

donner: Yes - we did receive that same document. Didn't realize we would have to change the lengths so much. Many thanks for posting!

evo/nut: You are right, but time is a premium lately. Seems like they would be rebuildable and even would clean up nicely with a wire brush. Thanks!

Got the car in for an alignment/tracking. As I expected - -2 on the front, -1.5 on the rears. Nearly zero toe on the front and slight in the rear. Car is now a finger tip driver on the autobahn! And the ride is significantly different - firm, but not rattle your teeth. No more crashing, pops, wobbling. Very pleasant...especially for a coil over.



Evo specialist said it was just the right height...shouldn't have any issue with jumps/g-outs on the Ring...taking the inner liners out on the front. (previous had burn throughs). We measured at the fender arches - 25. in front and 24.75 in the rear.



We then put 500 kms on it and other than a bit buzzy at 4000/~90 mph...a joy!

Enjoyed a few corners and approaching/exceeding break away, the rear of the car was thumping. Would that be the AYC? No lights and occasionally hear the pump. But hadn't heard the thumping sound...although it appeared to be helping the understeer. Is this expected or relay that we may have a discrepancy?

Good fun!

 

[Tim M]

Well, we are fully invested into an aftermarket ECU now...



Link Evo 8 Ecu: $1519
Link Air Intake Sensor: $46
Link CAN Wideband: $365
Link CAN Connector: $42
Link O2 Sensor Cable Extension: Free

We'll add 1050 ID injectors at the same time.

May just be fools to attempt this on our own...

 

[TimC]

Hi Tim.

is the thumping you are getting whilst changing gear during heavy acceleration? Moustache bar bushes on the rear diff are known for going soft and causing similar noises.

 

[Tim M]

TimC: Apologies for the delay...thumping is hard corner to the right...I've not done any hard accels as of yet (no tune!). Appreciate the post...

Been too long to not be working on the Mitsubishi...driving - yes, but no time for anything else.
Pulled it apart to fit the intake air temp sensor for the Link vice the OEM MAF location. Decided on the lower charge tube...local shop machined the bung, welded, and painted the area for 40 euro. I thought a good price:




Also replaced the oil pressure sensor again (3rd one on this engine)...hoping for better news on the actual pressure...these do seem to be low quality as they start to pulsate and/or needle moves not related to engine rpm...but there may be other issues:

Cold 1400 idle returns 88 psi.

Warm 800 rpm idle:

I do have a active OEM dash idiot light and it has never flickered (except on key turn on).
Can one turn up the pressure?

 

[thetyrant]

My advice get a quality oil pressure gauge those cheap ones are a lottery!, i have had issues with them in past and while ok at first mine scared the life out of me on way back from the ring when i noticed oil pressure dropped way below normal when going around brussels ring road, stopped and checked for any issue and with non found carefully limped home, installed a decent gauge and sender (SPA brand) and all was well! wont trust a cheap gauge for something so critical again.

Also air temp sensor wants to be as close to the throttle body as possible, it will work in that pip but be better to have it closer to engine imo.

Keep up the good work though as so little builds like this on here these days

 

[Tim M]

thetyrant: I would agree with that course of action. Although, I don't consider Autometer low quality, but seems odd. Appreciate the comments - we really have had great fun with getting it back on the road!

We will keep moving on...

Next to the ECU...had the Link G4X sitting on shelf for several months...struggling to locate a tuner and realizing that the car will run poorly before it runs better...and it runs quite well currently - although only at part throttle! 25 mpg is pretty impressive (no boost!).

Tried hard to connect to the OEM with Evo Scan, but no dice:


Nonetheless - the plug and play Link seems logical for this vehicle.

Out with the original:


Comparison - OEM to Link:


Link included the wrong end plate...appears to be set up for a 3 connector ECU:


Nothing a Dremel can't adjust. Notched the plate for the Link CAN Lambda, USB connection, and 7 bar MAP sensor hose:


Then the errant wire reared it ugly head...apparently it came from this gray block - appears to be a connector - is this OEM? I stuck it into one of the holes...


Next, reapply power, connect laptop, and key on...cooling fans go full on and laptop appears to be communicating...communicating I need an ECU Unlock Code! Hopefully, they will respond tomorrow...exciting!

 

[Tim M]

Our vendor responded promptly (on a Sunday night) and provided the ECU Unlock - which appeared to be successful!

We selected the Evo 4-6 7Bar PCB V1.5+ G4X Extreme Plug-In program to begin.

Fans are running on high so adjusted a few of the selections as per Link Forum...now off, but more adjustments to follow.

Completed a MAP Sensor Calibration - Success. 96.8 KPA with key on.

Completed a TPS Sensor Calibration - Success.

Fuel pump pressurizes for ~3 seconds.

Attempted a start, plenty of starter rotation, but no firing. Went from 12 Master Fuel to 25 and adjusted the accelerator - 0 to WOT to in between. Only got one combustion event and barely. Pulled the plugs and they are dry. We surely engaged the starter enough to see some fuel in the combustion chamber.

We'll let the battery/starter rest tonight. Exciting brain transplant!

 

[adwo]

Then the errant wire reared it ugly head...apparently it came from this gray block - appears to be a connector - is this OEM? I stuck it into one of the holes...

It’s not original of course. Somebody just needed the signal from that wire to tap into, for a turbo timer, shift light or whatever.

Make sure you can echt it to the right color coded wire!


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[Tim M]

adwo: Thanks for the clarification...makes sense. The car had a boost gauge, turbo timer, and something else previously. And...

Another couple of iterations of trying different adjustments thanks to Link subject matter experts (from New Zealand!)...we have a running Evo with a new brain! They deduced we had an Evo 7 cam sensor wheel due to the pattern...would never have figured that out.



Now to get the wideband working...

 

[Tim M]

Got the wideband working with the help of the Link Team - neat piece of hardware! Next to try the Quick Tune...automated fuel map build - worked like a champ! Just requires 2 seconds are each cell to update...seems logical, but we've come a long way in the aftermarket! About 50 cells complete and even dipped into 12 psi of boost! Will be a fun car at 20+!

 

[Tim M]

Started working with Boosted Performance for a remote tune...5 hours last night even past midnight. Roads are somewhat clear, but darkness and fog made things exciting. Some 2500-5500 rpm WOT runs...will be a fun car! Prior to commencing, he desired new plugs (NGK 6684 (BPR8EIX)), Grimmspeed EBCS, and the Air Intake Temperature wired up (installed in the cold side charge pipe).

Spent most of the day accomplishing that:

9000 km plugs look pretty good!:


Hated to cut the OEM harness...but for a good cause:



My assistant would have done a much better job (but skiing in the Alps took priority!):



The other end was simple enough:



The Grimmspeed EBCS has same hose routing as Evo 8, but the wire plugs are not. Not liking to cut harness...constructed these jumpers and install the Grimmspeed in same location as OEM:



More tuning to follow...unfortunately, we will miss the last day of the year Nurburgring open time...tomorrow. Always next year and it would have been pushing to drive a car 6 hours plus track time...that hasn't been proven at WOT.

Did receive this nice setup from Norris:



I was dismayed that I learned to find out in the instructions that the Evo 5 will lose the windshield washer sprayer/intercooler sprayer due to the size of this unit. Almost regret not just going with a new OEM...

Car is making great noises...with not much insulation so added treat at WOT!

 

[Tim M]

Last day of the Nurburgring came and went (Sunday)...car is not complete on the tuning side.

Continued to work up to 2500-6500 rpm and 20 psi...may have to move up to the Injection Dynamics 1050cc injectors...not a bad problem! Third gear acceleration is about what I expected! Few more psi (~23) and likely, timing to be added. The Link interface is quite impressive! The weather here is turning sour and travel...may not complete until next year!

Decided to finally install some new 'glass' on the instrument cluster - posts on this forum relayed at how easy it was - sure enough!

The part:



The removal:



The install...snap off, snap on:



Now the 'glass' is invisible vice full of scratches!

And a fun shot of it taking the better half to dinner in Stuttgart:

 

[Tim M]

Finally a break in life to put effort toward the Evo 5...

Pulled the bumper:



Removed the windscreen washer container...won't be able to use due to the interferrence:



Cleaned the area:



Installed:



Comparison:



Appears I installed it correctly, but one horn was in the way...also attempted to install the OEM bumper and the brake duct work won't fit as well as the OEM oil cooler deflector. I did not removed those items to see if the cooler would still fit beneath the bumper, but those items (especially the brake duct), I'd like to keep. Looks like I will go with an OEM after contacting Norris to confirm I'm doing it right. The OEM cooler is likely sufficient for us and I dislike losing capability for a street car (might fail on the next TUV with our window squirters...)

 

[babou88]

On track, the OEM Cooler is'nt sufficient for my point of view, but I think (personal point of view) it's more the OEM lines that doesn't allow a good flow...

the union ("banjo" ?) bolt have a little hole, and flow is'nt good with that connection for track use (+ 130° c on Nurburgring track with motul 15W50 300v with the OEM setup,for a 8min30 lap BTG)

I think OEM cooler + DASH line will be a sufficient improvement

for road use, i think all OEM is enough

great posts, thank for sharing Tim!

Bastien

 

[Tim M]

babou88: Appreciate the response!

May I ask you what you mean on + DASH line?

I have a slight predicament as well...I had thoughts of replacing the oil cooler so installed an Evo 8 oil filter adapter (with the larger fittings).

I've read that Evo 6 is supposed to have larger fittings as well, but several of the parts books show interchange with Evo 5 and not Evo 7 (larger fittings).

At this point, I'd prefer OEM...but the Evo 5 cooler is likely not going to fit my larger lines on the engine side.

Can I just order an Evo 8 lines, but what OEM cooler then? Evo 6, Evo 6 TME, Evo 7? Very confusing...

 

[babou88]

I don't know what the real name is , dash or AN fitting?
on my car it's like that :



it allow more oil flow than the banjo/union OEM fitting (in my opinion)

but I don't know if you can put it on the OEM oil cooler

another time, in my opinion it's not the oil cooler who is "bad", but just the lines (and particularly the union bolts)

I don't know what OEM parts can be fitted on for improvement sorry.

Best regards
Bastien

 

[adwo]

6-9 have M18x 1.5 instead of M16 bolts. Check that and you know what you have.

When you want to go bigger (if you have the M16 bolts) you also need a new oil filter housing that accommodates the bigger bolts.

You can then (probably) fit an 8 cooler 13 row instead of the E6 11 row cooler.

I would also replace the relieve valve in the oil filter housing. When that doesn’t work no oil will flow to the cooler.

Valve, eng oil cooler by-pass Mitsubishi EVO 5/6/7/8/9/10 - MD356695

PNC - 04353

www.4turbo.pl

Given your spec you don’t need a 17-19 row cooler IMHO.

Cheers,

Adwo


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