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Old 08-04-2020, 17:27   #1
The Rock
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Fuel cut/ Boost cut or something else?

Trying to solve my boost cut problem and thought I would ask the good people of the MLR. I have Evo 6 TME 570bhp with precision turbo and it was running well until recently. One day I pulled out the garage and car went pop (like it had reached its rev limit but was nowhere near) and the boost cut and the car felt like it hit a wall and the turbo had gone. Since that day I have tried to book in with my tuner but he has been flat out so not able to take a look. Now with lockdown, Iím trying to work it out myself.

So far I have:

1: Tested for boost leaks with a homemade kit and compressor at 30psi. I found several leaks including on one of the injector seals and have repaired all the leaks ( thanks ross sports for parts). There was also a leak on the dump valve and on one of the hose clamps.

2: Replaced and gapped plugs

3: Replaced the coil packs and leads

4: Dismantled the wastegate and checked the springs and operation of the valve

5: Checked the Greddy B spec 2 boost controller solenoid was opening and closing (used compressor)

6: Recorded the problem on a log file on the G4 link and posted it to the G4 link forum. Some people said it was a misfire, hence I replace plugs and coil packs. It was not. The ECU log does not seem to show boost cut as I presume the boost is controlled by the boost controller.

7: Took a video of the problem and posted it to my tuner. He thinks possible severe compressor surge or boost leak or wastegate, but without seeing the car was hard to tell.

I have attached 2x videos of the problem. On low boost the car still drive fine, it's only when foot goes to the floor on high boost that I get what feels like boost cut and sometimes a popping sound and power surging on and off. As Iím out of work and stuck at home due to COVID 19 Iím trying to solve it myself. Does anyone know what I can try next?

One person said to remove the dump valve which I have not yet tried. The dump valve does not appear leak when I put 30 psi though it on the compressor, so should I try and blank it off then road test? Could this damage the turbo with no dump valve on high boost?

Thanks to anyone who has time to respond..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ZikxFB8KMgycE1Y6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZRtYzHaVZk6Fwbw89
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:52   #2
pmugabi
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You might cause damage by flooring it with the issue.

Power surging on and off can also be caused by a faulty fuel pump.

Until you can log it properly including AFRs just drive off boost.
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Old 09-04-2020, 15:06   #3
The Rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmugabi View Post
You might cause damage by flooring it with the issue.

Power surging on and off can also be caused by a faulty fuel pump.

Until you can log it properly including AFRs just drive off boost.
Thanks for your reply, attached is my log from my ECU link G4, not sure if you can see anything from the log? The problem occurs at 3.40-3.50 and is the same as in the video. The only other thing I have noticed recently is the car fires on just 3 cylinders for about 1 minute after startup, then the fourth kicks in. It does it most of the time but this started to happen after the boost cut problem and only ever on startup.

I won't run it at all if there is a risk of damage, is there any way to test the fuel pump. Obviously its working (as the car runs) and its a hard-wired 450lph Walbro, but how can I check its working on higher demand? It does seem a bit less noisy recently....

Thanks again

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O3o...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 09-04-2020, 15:57   #4
leeslancer8
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May sound silly but if it’s been stood change the fuel filter pop of the fuel pipe and check the filter hasn’t collapsed and blocked the injectors. It will only do it on full throttle
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Old 09-04-2020, 18:38   #5
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May sound silly but if itís been stood change the fuel filter pop of the fuel pipe and check the filter hasnít collapsed and blocked the injectors. It will only do it on full throttle
Ok one problem solved, the relay to the fuel pump had burnt out. Just put a new relay on and it starts fine now!

Just the boost cut/ Compressor surge issue now Any ideas what to try appreciated?
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Old 09-04-2020, 19:10   #6
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I've not looked at the log yet, but how's your fuel pressure throughout and what happens to the AFR?
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Old 10-04-2020, 08:39   #7
The Rock
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Originally Posted by jmhar View Post
I've not looked at the log yet, but how's your fuel pressure throughout and what happens to the AFR?
I'm trying to work out how to read them (new to this), was hoping someone would be able to assist by taking a look? I posted on the G4 link forum and someone told me it was misfire, have no idea how they worked it out, but the car now has new plugs, leads and coil pack lol...


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Old 10-04-2020, 09:04   #8
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I had a look last night and dragged AFR and fuel pressure into view but there wasn't a reading available for either.

I had the same issue as you a few months ago and a new set of plugs sorted it.

Have you checked earth leads and battery connections?
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:39   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhar View Post
I had a look last night and dragged AFR and fuel pressure into view but there wasn't a reading available for either.

I had the same issue as you a few months ago and a new set of plugs sorted it.

Have you checked earth leads and battery connections?
New plugs, leads, coil packs and a battery in November. All connections are good. The car had wideband lambda fitted a year or so ago and has run a lot smoother. I'm sure when it first happened it sounded like something went pop. Like a hose blowing off or a balloon bursting. Since then it only works on low boost and high boost causes the problem you see in the video.

Im tempted to order a new dump valve to eliminate that, but others have said it cannot be dump valve when on boost and I would notice a leak at idle?

If it was a compressor surge, why would it suddenly start doing that? The power feels less even on low boost and still feels very slightly hesitant. Almost a bit juddery as it accelerates. Somethings not right and I am determined to find it if I have the tools to do so.

Thanks for taking a look at the log
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Old 13-04-2020, 15:59   #10
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Fuel pump is now even noisier since I fit the new fuse holder and relay. Im now thinking this could well be a fuel pump issue. I must be able to turn on AFRs to log in the G4+ does anyone know how? Need to know the fuel pressure and if that is the problem I can order a new pump!

Jumping ahead would it be ok to straight swap the 450lph Walbro for the new 525lph Walbro without having to remap or anything. I'm hoping the new 525 is better and less noisy! There is no other option I can find for in-tank fuel pumps for 600hp, deatschwerks 400lph does not seem to fit the Evo 6...
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Old 13-04-2020, 16:45   #11
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I've had another look at the log and added a bunch of lambda options to the list (right click any of the headers on logged values list > properties > add parameter > search for lambda > ctrl+click lambda 1 error, lambda 1 status > OK > OK)

This brings up error codes 48 and 46 as you scroll through the list - link to PDF for CAN-Lambda module here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf

See error codes on pages 16 and 17.

This could be your issue!

Last edited by jmhar; 13-04-2020 at 16:58..
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Old 13-04-2020, 20:23   #12
The Rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhar View Post
I've had another look at the log and added a bunch of lambda options to the list (right click any of the headers on logged values list > properties > add parameter > search for lambda > ctrl+click lambda 1 error, lambda 1 status > OK > OK)

This brings up error codes 48 and 46 as you scroll through the list - link to PDF for CAN-Lambda module here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf

See error codes on pages 16 and 17.

This could be your issue!
Ok thanks again, I see the errors. I will check the wiring to the 02 sensor and see why it reports overvoltage error. If a new sensor is needed I will replace.
My evo 6 TME is 20 years old now and has been my daily driver since 2004. Thinking about putting it in the garage for weekends only as its almost a classic! But then I need a new run around and the thought of not having 570bhp on tap does not sit well lol
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Old 02-05-2020, 11:36   #13
The Rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhar View Post
I've had another look at the log and added a bunch of lambda options to the list (right click any of the headers on logged values list > properties > add parameter > search for lambda > ctrl+click lambda 1 error, lambda 1 status > OK > OK)

This brings up error codes 48 and 46 as you scroll through the list - link to PDF for CAN-Lambda module here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf

See error codes on pages 16 and 17.

This could be your issue!
Your were right, the Can lambda had failed! I managed to get a new bosch sensor delivered and installed. I then did another run in the car and recorded a new log on the link g4+. I go full throttle at 9.20-9.23 and experience the cut. It should now show the AFR, but im no expert at this and would like some advice. I have been told that it could be running lean?

If that is the case is my next step to check the fuel pressure? If so any advice on which one to buy and how to install a fuel pressure gauge? Is there one that links directly to the G4+ for monitoring?

thanks again

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ES...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 02-05-2020, 11:57   #14
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Wow, 18:1 AFR at 2.1 bar of boost

Your target AFR at that point is 11.83:1 so you've definitely got some fuelling issues there.

I've got the Link fuel pressure sensor on my fuel rail. It's at the timing belt end, so just check what you've got fitted first.

It would be worth checking/replacing your fuel pressure regulator, including the vacuum hoses that run to it - if they're split and the regulator isn't seeing a boost signal that could account for your fuelling issue.

Last edited by jmhar; 02-05-2020 at 11:59..
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Old 02-05-2020, 21:51   #15
The Rock
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Originally Posted by jmhar View Post
Wow, 18:1 AFR at 2.1 bar of boost

Your target AFR at that point is 11.83:1 so you've definitely got some fuelling issues there.

I've got the Link fuel pressure sensor on my fuel rail. It's at the timing belt end, so just check what you've got fitted first.

It would be worth checking/replacing your fuel pressure regulator, including the vacuum hoses that run to it - if they're split and the regulator isn't seeing a boost signal that could account for your fuelling issue.
Thanks for taking a look! I don't have a fuel pressure sensor on my link g4+ so will need to buy one to be able to see fuel pressure. I take it the engine is running lean and not getting enough fuel? Do you think I should buy a fuel pressure sensor or just take the plunge and start replacing bits like the regulator and fuel pump etc ? I will check the vac hoses tommorrow
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