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Old 18-08-2009, 18:20   #1
Enda
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Annoying Aux belt tensioner squeek?

Rather than pay the mad amount for a new one, simple fix

In my case, the bearing on the end pulley was making the squeek when cold, especially when first starting in the morning and went after a few mins warm up..

So first steps, take of the tensioner complete,

remove the bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner arm.

I left it to set in wd40 while I had the Dinner



Get a vise, and socket and start clamping and slowly tightening(forget what size socket, but make sure its as big as possible as the bearing but small enought to fit into the hole in the pulley)



Bearing removed



New bearing being put back in:



All done :




Started her up and silence Now what to spend the €200 I saved , boost controller I thinks

The bearing is a standard 6203 bearing BTW
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Old 18-08-2009, 18:28   #2
grayw
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The OEM tensioner is only £80 new, but still a good saving by just doing the bearing.
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Old 18-08-2009, 18:31   #3
Enda
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http://camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m8b0s2314p3325

thats the cheapest I could find! Misti here wanted even more!

€2 for the bearing and that the only part of the assembly that wears..
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Old 18-08-2009, 18:36   #4
grayw
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Ant from Indigo, bought a new one from him a couple of months back for under £90 delivered The castings can crack when you release the tension also.
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Old 19-08-2009, 17:48   #5
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Bargain!

It's on my to-do list.
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Old 25-09-2009, 20:58   #6
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Did this last night, was so needed. My bearing was very slack, could tell all wasn't well as the tensioner would jump as the engine revved.

Needed to change water pump pulley as it had cracked, checked the 3rd idler pulley & that had play in it as well, took that off & there is no way to replace that bearing as it's totally enclosed so it'll have to be a new one.

Was well impressed i found this thread as it's saved me a few £££
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Old 26-09-2009, 11:43   #7
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Great write up, just done it the ,silence is bliss aaaahhh
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Old 27-09-2009, 08:37   #8
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Great thread. Will get cracking and get mine sorted.

I also got quoted stupid prices off everyone.
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Old 27-09-2009, 11:52   #9
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Good write up and added bonus of pJictures. just one word of advice (and not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs here) to those doing this job, always make sure that whatever it is you use to press a bearing in or out, is only in contact with the inner or outer race, whichever one is the static race. Pressing the inner race in the above example can be detrimental to the bearing and cause reduced life. Pressing on the outer bearing race in the above example is the correct way to go as there is no stress put across the bearing itself.
There is another way instead of having to hard-press it in. which will much reduce the chance of cracking of the carrier, place the bearing in a cold place (fridge/freezer/etc) and the carrier in a hot oil bath or similar. Once the two are suitably at temperature, drop the bearing into the carrier. You do have to be quick and accurate as the two temp extremes dont stay that way for long.

(I only write this from experience of pressing probably more than 1000 bearings into housings/motors/onto shafts etc. From 20mm to over 200mm ball bearings!)

Hope it helps.

Last edited by Capt.Mike; 27-09-2009 at 11:53..
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:58   #10
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Great write up very useful, did this on mine today , unfortunately it wasnt this pulley making the noise I am concerned about so back to the drawing board

Took about 40 minutes to do and the old bearing was well its past so perhaps the upper one is on its way as well
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Old 05-05-2010, 23:38   #11
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Which bearing was it?#
6203-2RS, 2Z etc?
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Old 06-05-2010, 00:05   #12
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Well done.
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:04   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant620 View Post
Which bearing was it?#
6203-2RS, 2Z etc?

I used 6203-C-2HRS

Bought a couple good quality European ones rather (FAG) than cheap chinese and cost £8 ea
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:16   #14
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Did K-evo's yesturday £10 for a good bearing ..
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:19   #15
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There is another idler wheel as well has anyone done that one??
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