Evo IV Restomod - Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum
 
 

Go Back   Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum > General Stuff > Projects & Restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 44 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 17-12-2011, 11:30   #1
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Evo IV Restomod

Gwaldo's
Evo IV Restomod


Insta: @gwaldo_1
So here goes...

Car imported into the UK in 2004. Purchased by me Jan 2011 with roughly 47k Miles on the clock.

Starting Point:
  • Tidied up bodywork
  • Removed original IV engine and fitted replacement IX engine including manifolds & 80 series turbo.
  • Fitted Hydra Nemesis EMS 2.5
  • Fitted upper & Lower HKS hardpipes
  • Fitted R-spec oil temp, pressure and boost gauges
  • Replaced worn Ralliart topmount O/S/F
  • Replaced HKS EVC with Greddy Profec-B
  • Fitted F&R Upper strut braces
  • Engine dress up inc: Polished manifold cover, Tegiwa stainless fixing kit, Tegiwa battery tie, Carbongoodies Mivec cam cover & Ralliart plug cover, red conduit and silicone hose, neverneverman cam sensor heat shield.
  • Rear suspension recall work
  • Front end tidy: Inc fresh mesh, new number plate & new fixings.

I'm no Evo guru or car mechanic and I certainly don't claim to be. I'm sure I'll be met with plenty of issues along the way but fingers crossed the wealth of knowledge on this forum will see me through

My intentions (Revised 14/11/12):
  • Completely strip underside and protect, re-seal and paint.
  • Replace all steel F&R suspension arms with 5/6 alloy arms and fit aftermarket bushes.
  • Refurbish drive-train.
  • Replace wheel bearings.
  • Remove AYC diff and fit a LSD.
  • Remove ABS and install bias control on the rear.
  • Replace Ralliart coilovers with a fast road/track day alternative.
  • Remove A/C, de-clutter, deep clean engine bay and wire-tuck/tidy.
  • Engine build (2lt long rod)
  • Body work + arch work and full respray.
  • Fit harness bar or possibly a bolt-in cage.
  • On completion; full geometry setup & mapping

Update: 29/06/19
Spec/Parts List

Quote:
Engine: 2.0ltr Long Rod Mivec
  • OEM 4G63 crank
  • Oliver I-Beam Extreme Conrods 156mm
  • Mahle Pistons 85.50mm
  • ACL Race Bearings
  • ARP Main Studs
  • H11 Head Studs
  • Cosworth Head gasket
  • Balance Shaft Delete
  • Stock Valves
  • Supertech Dual Valve Spring and retainer Set
  • GSC S1 cams 268/268
  • Tomei Adjustable Cam Gear
  • OEM Water Pump
  • OEM Oil Pump
  • Hel 19row Oil Cooler
  • Kiggly Racing HLA Pressure Reg
  • Dual Mishimoto sealed catch can setup
  • Ralliart 76░ Thermostat
  • SFS Rad Hoses
  • Koyo Radiator
  • Ralliart 1.3bar Rad Cap
  • Honda CBR Coolant Expansion bottle
  • 14" Spal Slimeline Fan
  • Ralliart Engine Mount Bushes
  • New Oil Sump
  • Tomei Slicing & Baffle Kit
  • Fluidampr Crank Pulley with ARP bolts

Turbo & Intake:
  • Evo IX 80series Turbo
  • Uprated Oil Feed & Return Lines
  • Ross Sport 3" Intake Pipework
  • K&N Airfilter
  • HKS J-Pipe
  • HKS Intercooler Pipework modified straight 2.5" + Tial Flange
  • Tial Q 50mm BOV
  • Stock Throttle Body
  • Stock Intake Manifold
  • Allisport Intercooler

Exhaust:
  • JMF Prostock Stock Frame Exhaust Manifold
  • C-tec modular 3" elbow
  • C-tec modular 3" downpipe
  • C-tec custom 3" de-Cat
  • Custom True 3" cat-back exhaust
  • DEI Titanium Thermal Heat Wrap
  • Torque Solutions exhaust mounts

Fuel:
  • Hardwired Walbro 255lph
  • AN -6 Braided Feed Line
  • 6mm ID Braided Return Line
  • In-line Torques Fuel Filter
  • Stock Fuel Rail
  • Stock FPR
  • Injector Dynamics 725cc

Electronics:
  • Link G4+ Storm Black Edition
  • Custom Sequential COP Bosch Ignition system
  • Greddy Profec B Spec-II
  • Prosport Stepper Touch Oil Temp, Pressure & Boost Gauges
  • AEM AFR Gauge with Bosch sensor
  • Custom engine loom with Mil-Spec connectors
  • Bosch Knock sensor

Drivetrain:
  • Evo IV GSR 5 Speed box
  • Evo VI LSD Transfer Box
  • Reinforced linkage brackets
  • Solid Shifter Bushes
  • Solid Shifter Base Bushes
  • Braided Clutch Line
  • Exedy Hyper Twin Plate Clutch & flywheel + ARP bolts
  • Solid Propshaft Bushes
  • Ralliart & Powerflex Diff Bushes
  • Quaife Rear ATB Helical LSD

Suspension & Steering:
  • Ohlins DFV R&T (Re-valved by Aurok for the Evo 4/5/6 sprint & track)
  • C-tec/Aurok Top Mounts
  • Cusco 3 point Front Strut Brace
  • Ultra Racing3 point Fender Braces
  • Aluminium Evo5/6 Suspension Arms
  • Full Ralliart Bush set + Some Powerflex and Polybush
  • SuperPro Caster Increase bushes
  • OEM Front ARB
  • 24mm X heavy duty Whiteline Rear ARB
  • OEM front & rear droplinks
  • Custom braided PAS line
  • Custom Setrab 7 row PAS cooler setup
  • Work Wheels Emotion 11R Matte Black 17x9.0 +18 (9.3kgs)
  • Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 235/40/17
  • Taper Pro Alloy 25mm Spacers
  • ARP Extended Wheel Studs
  • Muteki SR48 Lightweight Steel Wheel Nuts

Brakes:
  • Fully Refurbished F&R Brembos
  • PF Floating Front Discs
  • Carbotech XP8 Front Pads
  • Carbotech XP8 Rear Pads
  • Grooved Rear disc
  • SS Braided Brake Lines
  • SS Braided through-car Brake Lines
  • Tilton Rear Brake Proportioning Valve
  • Motul RBF660 Fluid
  • Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper

Interior:
  • Flocked interior Trim
  • Nardi-Personal Steering Wheel
  • NRG Short Quick-release steering boss
  • AMS gear knob
  • Lifeline extinguisher
  • Cobra Suzuka Pro Bucket Seats
  • Custom low position seat mounts
  • TRS Clubman Harnesses
  • Lifeline 1.75ltr AFFF Extinguisher
  • Safety Devices Rear Roll-cage with Harness bars

Other:
  • Beatrush Laile Underpanel
  • Attain cooling panel
  • Attain carbon exhaust shield
  • Custom fibreglass rear diffuser setup
  • Custom carbon fibre sill extensions
  • Bosch 054 boot mounted Battery
  • Custom fibreglass wide arches
  • Lightweight N/S Support
  • Custom Aluminium front Splitter
  • ABS/AYC Delete
  • A/C Delete
Sadly due to work commitments this build is going to take me a very long time but I will persevere.


Please excuse the poor camera quality. It's only temporary.

Some before shots












Regards
Will

Last edited by Gwaldo; 29-06-2019 at 20:22..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 17-12-2011, 11:31   #2
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Up on axle stands:

Horrible waxoyl.


Bumpers off

I'll be either removing the aluminium splitter and replacing it with a custom carbon one or have it powdercoated black.

Shabby oil cooler


Arches not looking too bad






Rear end stripped.

Last edited by Gwaldo; 11-07-2017 at 11:30..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 11:40   #3
milk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: west midlands
Car: 4 rs
Posts: 737
looks good mate, it's a crap job stripping the underside. just done mine
milk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 17-12-2011, 11:43   #4
Steve220
Registered User
 
Steve220's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Moray - Lossie
Car: Audi A4 Quattro
My Car
Posts: 8,761
Send a message via Skype™ to Steve220
Another telfordite. I'm sure i've seen this car somewhere else before too...
__________________
Evo-less

Last edited by Steve220; 17-12-2011 at 11:48..
Steve220 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve220 For This Useful Post:
carsevo99 (27-12-2012)
Old 17-12-2011, 11:54   #5
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Fuel tank, car has been standing for along time at some point, the space between the fuel tank and shell was full of nuts, acorns and sh*t, literally (This is the tank brushed off)


Ridiculously heavy steel arms and worn OE bushes. Plus the remains of ABS/AYC sensor.


AYC diff anyone?


Got my work cut-out stripping this lot back.


Moving along nicely, then, hidden behind side skirt on N/S/R was this.
Edit: After further investigation it becomes clear that the N/S/R wing has been completely replaced likely due to accident damage. Now whoever carried out the repair failed to seal the panel seems correctly and also made a complete hash job of welding the sills back together, hense the reason moisture has made its way inside the sills and caused rusting on the unprotected steel of the replacement panel. It's a shame really as apart from this the underside is great shape.


After some probing and slight cutting you can see where the replaced quarter was poorly joined with the original body.


My intention is to aquire a replacement sill section and have the rotten area cut-out and replaced.

Last edited by Gwaldo; 11-07-2017 at 11:38..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 12:14   #6
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Time to start stripping back the Waxoyl, paint and rust.

Right tool for the job and all that..


By far the worst effected area.


After a good strip down all the surface rust is removed leaving just slight pitting which will be dealt with prior to painting and sealing.


50/50


Under the underseal



Getting there...


Surface almost cleared ready for metal treatments

Last edited by Gwaldo; 13-07-2017 at 11:36..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 12:19   #7
Steve220
Registered User
 
Steve220's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Moray - Lossie
Car: Audi A4 Quattro
My Car
Posts: 8,761
Send a message via Skype™ to Steve220
Check the inner sill of the rear wheel arch, they go there loads
__________________
Evo-less
Steve220 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 12:35   #8
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve220 View Post
Check the inner sill of the rear wheel arch, they go there loads
It's not bad at all surprisingly. Just a slight bit of surface rust that'll come right off.


Once finished stripping the rear/boot section back to bare metal I de-greased the entire area and gave it two treatments of Metal Blast over the course of 24hrs to etch the metal and kill off any remaining hidden rust.

My paint of choice was Rust Bullet Automotive (Same paint Coskev used on his V), comes highly recommended and easy to use. This paint is badass and hard as nails. Don't get this on bare skin!

After two coats. A total of 4 coats will be applied followed by 2-3 applications of topcoat area dependant.


Awesome stuff.

Last edited by Gwaldo; 13-07-2017 at 11:41..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 12:45   #9
4G63EvO
Registered User
 
4G63EvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Sunny Malta.
Car: One eyed IV with Autronics SMC, AMS cooler, Carbotech XP8s well just see under "my car" for details.
My Car
Posts: 18,571
Nice job well done.

Jon.
__________________
4G63EvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 13:05   #10
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
.

Last edited by Gwaldo; 27-08-2013 at 18:01..
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 13:09   #11
Steve220
Registered User
 
Steve220's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Moray - Lossie
Car: Audi A4 Quattro
My Car
Posts: 8,761
Send a message via Skype™ to Steve220
How hard was it to get the bearing/flange out the hubs?
__________________
Evo-less
Steve220 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 15:09   #12
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve220 View Post
How hard was it to get the bearing/flange out the hubs?
Was a pain, jury rigged two chocks of wood and sat the hub on them, Used what must have been a 60mm socket and a copper hammer to knock them out. Hit it like you mean it type of thing. No damage to the bearings.
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 15:30   #13
drue1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: KENT
Car: Audi S3 Project Build
My Car
Posts: 8,231
after the Rust Bullet what do you put on after because im going to be doing under my car.....looking sweet fella

cheers stewart
drue1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 16:28   #14
Gwaldo
Fanboy
 
Gwaldo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Car: Evo IV Mivec Widebody
My Car
Posts: 1,887
Entirely upto you. You don't need to topcoat it if you don't want to, its tough stuff! Topcoats however need to be applied within a time frame, if you refer to their website it will tell you all you need to know.
Gwaldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2011, 16:47   #15
Si B @ HEL
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Somerset
Car: Evo 8 FQ600 ;-) Evo 6, 2 Pug 205 GTIs & a knackered 306 GTi6
My Car
Posts: 5,085
Nice work Will

Have you got the Mivec controlled by the Hydra?
Si B @ HEL is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Si B @ HEL For This Useful Post:
Graphite (08-12-2013)
Mitsubishi Lancer Register
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 19:57.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.