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Old 17-10-2017, 12:04   #1
Reverend_Ryno
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Boost pipe connections - help

Hello

Iíve been told by someone that my boost pipes are not plumbed correctly. I bought the car like this with the Work having been carried out by autotorque with previous owners but I donít know if something has been changed to make it incorrect.

From my observation I can see that I think:

Port 1 - goes to j pipe
Port 2 - goes to actuator
Port 3 - goes to a black connection just below

Therefore I think port 1 and 3 are the wrong way round.

Could someone confirm?

And what do you think the result of this would be? Car doesnít seem to run unhappy but perhaps feels slightly slow considering autotorque paperwork shows remap have performance of 360bhp.

Thanks
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Old 17-10-2017, 12:05   #2
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Old 17-10-2017, 14:57   #3
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is the 'black box below' the original boost solenoid? if so thats not right

How is your boost controlled, ecu or controller

As for which way round the 'turbo outlet' and the 'actuator'. assuming they are on the right pair of ports, I doubt it will matter massively if they are the wrong way around, but there will be a correct way, what that is, i dont know

Stu
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Old 17-10-2017, 15:21   #4
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Definitely seems to have been set up strangely unless for some reason this one is done differently which I doubt.

On a standard setup:

Port 1 should be left open
Port 2 to the actuator
Port 3 to the boost source (J pipe)

As Stu has asked, what are you using as a controller for this one? Is it done directly from the ECU?
What does the paperwork you have say it boosts at, and what boost are you seeing?

Starkers
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Old 17-10-2017, 15:26   #5
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Just looked at the pictures again and noticed that it is plumbed in to the standard boost solenoid!!
It is set up incorrectly and needs the pipework changing around as I stated above.
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Old 17-10-2017, 17:42   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starkers View Post
Definitely seems to have been set up strangely unless for some reason this one is done differently which I doubt.

On a standard setup:

Port 1 should be left open
Port 2 to the actuator
Port 3 to the boost source (J pipe)

As Stu has asked, what are you using as a controller for this one? Is it done directly from the ECU?
What does the paperwork you have say it boosts at, and what boost are you seeing?

Starkers
little google search seems to show different plumbing options for different models of Mac Solenoid, they all look like similar units, so maybe worth getting all the details off the solenoid to be sure which way it should be plumbed

Stu
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:22   #7
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Thanks for your help guys!!

Iíve been out and checked and the standard solenoid hasnít got anything plugged in to the other side of it. Photo attached.

I donít know what boost it was remapped too as the invoice just says what was fitted by auto torque and what Power it ran after the map (366 bhp)

There isnít a boost gauge currently either so no idea what itís running.

Iíll get the boost solenoid details and check. Maybe also get a boost gauge to see what itís running currently to see if that gives a clue.
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:29   #8
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I dont know if the standard solenoid is n/o or n/c, but regardless, it shouldnt be connected to that

1 port should be to the actuator, 1 port to the boost source, and the third left open, or piped back to your intake pipe (by filter)

You also dont mention if the ecu controls the boost solenoid, or it has a seperate controller. Issue you may have is if the ecu controls the solenoid, it may have been mapped incorrectly as the solenoid was not working correctly, and correcting the plumbing may then need a remap

I would be shocked if the plumbing as it is now was done like that by auto torque, maybe someone has messed with it since.

If the standard solenoid is n/o (normally open), and the pipe off your 3 port to the old solenoid is correctly on the vent / exhaust port, then the old solenoid may not make much difference, but if the original solenoid is n/c (normally closed) then that is basically blocking the vent on the 3 port, stopping it working

Simple test, put a pipe on the 1 of the ports on the original solenoid, other port left open, see if you can blow through it easily, if you can its n/o, if you cant its n/c

Stu
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:33   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu8 View Post
I dont know if the standard solenoid is n/o or n/c, but regardless, it shouldnt be connected to that

1 port should be to the actuator, 1 port to the boost source, and the third left open, or piped back to your intake pipe (by filter)

You also dont mention if the ecu controls the boost solenoid, or it has a seperate controller. Issue you may have is if the ecu controls the solenoid, it may have been mapped incorrectly as the solenoid was not working correctly, and correcting the plumbing may then need a remap

I would be shocked if the plumbing as it is now was done like that by auto torque, maybe someone has messed with it since.

If the standard solenoid is n/o (normally open), and the pipe off your 3 port to the old solenoid is correctly on the vent / exhaust port, then the old solenoid may not make much difference, but if the original solenoid is n/c (normally closed) then that is basically blocking the vent on the 3 port, stopping it working

Simple test, put a pipe on the 1 of the ports on the original solenoid, other port left open, see if you can blow through it easily, if you can its n/o, if you cant its n/c

Stu
Thanks for all your helpful advice!

Iím pretty sure there isnít a separate boost controller. It doesnt mention it in the invoice for the work. Exactly my thought - autotorque have got a good reputation and there are a number of invoices of them completing work on the car. I canít imagine the map has been changed in the last 2 years either but probable that the piping fiddled with.

Iíll check the solenoid with your method and come back with the results. I just hope it hasnít been over boosting and caused any damage

Thanks
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:39   #10
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Diagram on the lower left corner of the solenoid seems to show port 1 should be left VTA
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:42   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverend_Ryno View Post
Thanks for all your helpful advice!

Iím pretty sure there isnít a separate boost controller. It doesnt mention it in the invoice for the work. Exactly my thought - autotorque have got a good reputation and there are a number of invoices of them completing work on the car. I canít imagine the map has been changed in the last 2 years either but probable that the piping fiddled with.

Iíll check the solenoid with your method and come back with the results. I just hope it hasnít been over boosting and caused any damage

Thanks
If it runs fine, you are probably safe to assume there wont be damage, if the original solenoid is n/c it will cause low boost, if it's n/o it will just act as a vent anyway (not ideal, but not a worrying issue). All this assumes the ports on the 3 port are the right way round

Chances are, someone has messed with the car after it was set up, or parts removed and replaced pre-sale, and not done correctly, or just incorrectly refitted after doing some work, and not really knowing what they were doing

Stu
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:43   #12
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Quote:
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Diagram on the lower left corner of the solenoid seems to show port 1 should be left VTA
no idea, your eyesight appears to be better than mine

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Old 17-10-2017, 18:52   #13
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Quote:
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no idea, your eyesight appears to be better than mine

Stu

Second photo down, zoom in and just under the jubilee clip, there is a diagram linking ports 2 and 3. Port 1 is left free
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Old 17-10-2017, 18:56   #14
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Second photo down, zoom in and just under the jubilee clip, there is a diagram linking ports 2 and 3. Port 1 is left free
I'm 'standing on the fence' till I see full part numbers of the Mac, and my friend google tells me which 1 is which

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Old 17-10-2017, 19:02   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu8 View Post
I'm 'standing on the fence' till I see full part numbers of the Mac, and my friend google tells me which 1 is which

Stu
Like a peeping tom Stu.... I thought you'd already had a warning for that!
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