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Old 09-08-2019, 19:45   #106
RichW
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If i was to do it again i would seal the underside first, then cavity wax.

The cavity wax seeps through the seams and over the bodywork. If you was to under seal first it would allow the cavity wax to spread between the joints but no further.
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Old 10-08-2019, 06:28   #107
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Thanks guys!

The smartest thing would not to be driving the car this winter, so I won't. I don't drive the car much anyway during the year unfortunately, so I think this can stay for another year.

Winter 2020-2021 would then see all front, rear, inside of the car out, to strip to bare metal the whole underside and the engine bay. Car paint is great so I won't touch it. Interior is great too, so will leave it. However, while everything is out, might forge the engine to take a bit more power in the future, and powder coat all mechanical parts, take care of the rusted bolts etc.

Just throwing out ideas here, as I cannot do it this winter, I will have time to think about it and make a proper plan.


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Old 25-08-2019, 08:38   #108
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Woke up early to have empty roads, managed to do few pulls using Virtualdyno. I did them in 3rd gear with correct tyre size and gear ratio, all rest of Virtualdyno parameter default, here are the results (I didn't use the exact same stretch of road, but they were all pretty much flat):



And because I woke up so early I could see the sun rise, perfect occasion to take few pictures. Here is a try at a HDR photo:



Next step will be fitting 3 port boost solenoid to try to improve turbo spool, and a GM 3 bar map sensor. Then I will turn the boost up a bit and see what happens!

Happy!
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Old 25-08-2019, 08:47   #109
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Great pic !
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:17   #110
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Had a bit of a surprise today while removing the intake hose to fit the 3 port boost solenoid:



Turbo has some axial and radial play. Nothing too bad, I don't have oil consumption or smoke, and car is making great power so its not on its last leg, but I don't think oil there is normal Its quite artistic however haha. I planned to rebuild the engine end of next year, so this turbo will probably get replaced then

As for the 3 port boost solenoid, I didn't notice any improvement in turbo spool. Quite surprised actually considering what I've read or heard. Even with wastegate duty at 100% until 3500rpm the boost curve is the same as with the factory solenoid.

P.S.: What would be a safe boost to run the car at? I am running 1.1bar at the moment.

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Old 07-09-2019, 19:25   #111
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Very artistic

I have seen turbo inlet pipes a lot oilier than that, though that could be coming from the turbo oil seal given the way the oil has been sprayed out. There isn't very much though so i wouldn't worry about it just yet.
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Old 28-10-2019, 08:16   #112
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Ran into 2 issues with the car last weekend:

1) Removed the suspension to replace it, and found out that the 2 front top mounts have play in them. They are Ralliart items I fitted 2 years ago. They have about 3000km in them. Is it normal?

2) I have a seized component using the auxiliary belt. Either alternator, bearing, pas pump, or ac compressor. When turning the engine on I hear loud and bad hissing noise, smell rubber, and battery light goes on. Will have to investigate which component failed

Not a good end of the season!
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Old 28-10-2019, 16:31   #113
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and we still dont' know from wich country this lhd came from!
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Old 30-10-2019, 10:10   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erwing View Post
and we still dont' know from wich country this lhd came from!
Let's say central Europe
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Old 31-10-2019, 18:40   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmatt View Post
Ran into 2 issues with the car last weekend:

1) Removed the suspension to replace it, and found out that the 2 front top mounts have play in them. They are Ralliart items I fitted 2 years ago. They have about 3000km in them. Is it normal?

2) I have a seized component using the auxiliary belt. Either alternator, bearing, pas pump, or ac compressor. When turning the engine on I hear loud and bad hissing noise, smell rubber, and battery light goes on. Will have to investigate which component failed

Not a good end of the season!
What suspension are you fitting to it? Would of thought top mounts be fine,little play?
Lot of pulleys on the aux belt side,tensioners can be bad for seizing up and also the water pump pulleys crack,not a bad idea to replace that to for peace of mind.Bottom pulleys also fail.Just have to strip it down and see.

Did you do anything with your plan to underseal the car?
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:08   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willox View Post
What suspension are you fitting to it? Would of thought top mounts be fine,little play?
Lot of pulleys on the aux belt side,tensioners can be bad for seizing up and also the water pump pulleys crack,not a bad idea to replace that to for peace of mind.Bottom pulleys also fail.Just have to strip it down and see.

Did you do anything with your plan to underseal the car?
Basically I drive my car 50% on mountain roads, and 50% on roads to get to those mountain roads And even tho the Bilstein B14 were really good for that job, I am looking for something more. I worked on rallycars and drove cars with 3 way dampers and I want that. 2 years ago when I replaced the oem suspension for B14s I didn't want to jump straight to 3 way dampers, because I didn't have much experience with the car. Now I do!

Regarding the underseal, I will do it next year. Don't have funds at the moment, and really I need to plan this properly, find a good place to work on the car over the winter with lot of space around, get the products and tools. What I plan is:

1) Remove whole front and back drivetrain and engine
2) Strip to bare metal and inspect for potential rust going through the inside
3) If rust through, remove interior, otherwise leave it
4) Apply rust bullet, seam seal, cavity wax
5) Paint
6) blast and powder coat the suspension arms, braces, subframe, etc.
7) New or galvanized bolts and nuts
8) Put everything back

I will also do an engine rebuild at the same time. Not sure of the specs (will probably change million times lol), but I want an engine for mountain roads, so lot of low-rpm torque. I'm thinking of:

- forged 2.3 stroker bottom end
- rebuild stock cylinder head (camshafts if needed to achieve the number I'm looking for)
- 80 series turbo
- 750cc injectors (maybe 1000cc if needed, not sure)
- walbro 255 pump (already on the car, but not sure if needs upgrading)
- stock intercooler, stock piping, stock inlet and exhaust manifolds
- 2.75" full exhaust including elbow, and sport cat (already on the car)
- link ecu
- exedy twin plate clutch

Looking for 400bhp and 600Nm of torque (around 450 lbft) with good antilag. I'm already getting carried away with this build, but the engine needs second life, so why not upgrading it while I'm at it.

Last edited by madmatt; 01-11-2019 at 08:10..
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Old 01-11-2019, 16:24   #117
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I moved from Tein to KW club sport and wouldn't go back yes there firm but very controlled. Two way damped, helper springs strut height adjustable all stainless construction adjustable top mounts.
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Old 01-11-2019, 17:31   #118
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Are you keeping stock IC, pipes and small exhaust for a reason?

Quote:
Originally Posted by madmatt View Post
Basically I drive my car 50% on mountain roads, and 50% on roads to get to those mountain roads And even tho the Bilstein B14 were really good for that job, I am looking for something more. I worked on rallycars and drove cars with 3 way dampers and I want that. 2 years ago when I replaced the oem suspension for B14s I didn't want to jump straight to 3 way dampers, because I didn't have much experience with the car. Now I do!

Regarding the underseal, I will do it next year. Don't have funds at the moment, and really I need to plan this properly, find a good place to work on the car over the winter with lot of space around, get the products and tools. What I plan is:

1) Remove whole front and back drivetrain and engine
2) Strip to bare metal and inspect for potential rust going through the inside
3) If rust through, remove interior, otherwise leave it
4) Apply rust bullet, seam seal, cavity wax
5) Paint
6) blast and powder coat the suspension arms, braces, subframe, etc.
7) New or galvanized bolts and nuts
8) Put everything back

I will also do an engine rebuild at the same time. Not sure of the specs (will probably change million times lol), but I want an engine for mountain roads, so lot of low-rpm torque. I'm thinking of:

- forged 2.3 stroker bottom end
- rebuild stock cylinder head (camshafts if needed to achieve the number I'm looking for)
- 80 series turbo
- 750cc injectors (maybe 1000cc if needed, not sure)
- walbro 255 pump (already on the car, but not sure if needs upgrading)
- stock intercooler, stock piping, stock inlet and exhaust manifolds
- 2.75" full exhaust including elbow, and sport cat (already on the car)
- link ecu
- exedy twin plate clutch

Looking for 400bhp and 600Nm of torque (around 450 lbft) with good antilag. I'm already getting carried away with this build, but the engine needs second life, so why not upgrading it while I'm at it.
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Old 02-11-2019, 15:52   #119
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Small exhaust yes because of legality here. And I would think 2.75" should be able to cope well with 400bhp.

Regarding the intercooler and piping, I have seen people running factory parts with same power figures that I'm looking for so I think it doesn't really need changing. I don't want to change parts "just because", so please feel free to add your inputs to what I wrote! I don't have as much experience as you guys on Evos.
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:53   #120
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Regarding the issue with the aux belt slipping, and potentially having something seized up, I found out that the belt is just not tight enough

The tensioner is fully "released" and yet the belt is not tight, and therefore slipping.

Everything seems to be in place, nothing seized up, but its weird.
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