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Old 18-07-2002, 08:13   #46
scoobymike
 
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So you must be Chris then.
I wanted to come to the slalom (only watching as for the price to competet there you can drive 12 laps on the Ring, I know what I chose). On the same morning I was picking up my new suspension but unfortunately I took me more than 1 hour more than planned so skipped the slalom. In the end this was a good decision then till I would have arrived the others have already left the place.
Regarding Sports ECU and PE remap. I had the Sports ECU and then went for the PE, so nuff said.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 18-07-2002, 11:04   #47
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dutchEvo6,

Goeie Morgen! I'm in the same situation as you concerning the ECU upgrade.

My Dawes Device is on its way, and I'd like to upgrade the ECU to be able to run 1.4-1.5 bar safely.

Not sure whether to go for the Ralliart Sports ECU or the PE re-map. I have heard the Sports ECU makes the engine a bit more revvy, but I'm actully looking for mid-range boost.
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Old 18-07-2002, 11:10   #48
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I forgot to ask about the delta dash.

What is it exactly?
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Old 18-07-2002, 11:12   #49
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Ignore the previous post.

I found the info at www.ecutek.com
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Old 18-07-2002, 23:22   #50
dutchEVO6
 
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diff

Mike,
On my next visit later this year I will be visiting the guys again so maybe we can meet then.
Do you have an air/fuelratio gauge on the car? Is the car still running rich enough.Have you got any idea till what boostlevel the PE has got fuel maps.
Do you have an uprated fuelpump too?
I do want to play safe!
Rallyman ,I tried the dawes and did not like it.
When i have changed the ECU I want to set the boostlevel by mounting another jet , I have a larger one on the car now too, otherwise the fuelcuts drive me crazy.
Dawes keeps the wastegate closed till the boostlevel has been reached to open it ,but on half throttle situations and changing gears before the redline all was goiing very rough ,it is all or nothing with the dawes.
I think with the standard setup it all goes a it more smooth.
But I am no expert ,it was the feeling I had and did not like.
bye chris
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Old 10-10-2002, 16:53   #51
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Heave Ho,
It may appear you have another member to the knackered front LSD club.

Pulling into work this morning, right hand turn, full lock I got a loud clunking coming from the front of the car.

Only happens on right hand turns at very slow speeds (less than about 15mph)

Put the car up on the ramps tonight and got Su to spin the wheels while on full lock and they appear to get stuck and require extra force to move and then free up for the next rotation.

Does this sound like the same problem?

Andy
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Old 11-10-2002, 12:30   #52
Heave Ho Six
 
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Sounds like it, if the knocking/clunking can only be felt or feels strongest on the driveshaft then it points to the diff case bolt failure...as long as it is not a CV joint gone but you should be able to tell that.

I will sort out some info for you and email it.
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Old 25-10-2002, 08:42   #53
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HH6,
You have E-mail again. Can't view the pdf you sent me
Probably going to give this a go this weekend. Will let you know how I get on.

Andy
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Old 28-10-2002, 07:37   #54
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Thumbs up

Well,
I finally managed it.
Pictures will follow when I get chance to download them from my camera (bit crappy but it gives a reasonable impression)

Big thanks to HH6 for all the info and to [email protected] for the bits and being on the end of the phone when I needed it

Procedure is fairly straight forward although it would have helped if I had 2 people working on it instead of just me.

Remove exhaust front pipe

Drain gearbox and transfer box oil

Pop out both driveshafts (easier to do if you undo the hubs from the suspension strut)

Screw a 8mm nut into the hole on the output shaft on the transfer box side and then use a slide hammer to pop the shaft out.

Undo all the transfer box mounting bolts (including those on the top of the box that you can't see from underneath )

Slowly edge the transfer box away from the g/box
It will come out so far and then seem not to move..... The best option at this point is to insert a pry bar (or similar) into the hole in the middle of the transfer box and gently tap the centre shaft towards the g/box.

The transfer box will then come free and can be lowered to the floor. As it comes free and you lower it down, remove the propshaft from the rear of the t/box. BE careful. When the transfer box is free it is quite heavy for one person to hold

Once out, you can then remove the bolts holding the 2 halves of the box together and separate the halves by levering them gently with a screwdriver.

Then remove the diff assembly and remove the 14mm bolts holding the front diff inside. As you remove these, the ring gear will separate from the assembly and can be removed.

Inside you will find your front diff and probably a few bolt heads (I had 2 sheared off and 2 still in place)

Remove any bolts still in place and the diff will separate into 2 halves. Be careful that you don't tip up one half and have all the cogs fall onto the floor (not that I'd do anything like that of course )

Replace the bolts with new ones (with a bit of Loctite) and then put everything back together again in the right order and refill the fluids. It's a lot easier to raise the transfer box with 2 people and the assistance of a trolley jack (thank you Mrs RSX for the help )

Pretty simple really. No more loud clinking noises when turning and car feels a lot sharper on turn in.

Andy
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Old 30-10-2002, 12:22   #55
Pete-TME
 
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Very interesting thread. I'm having an identical problem on my E6 TME 2001. A more recent car, but it's been in to Mitsubishi three times, they replaced the left suspension assembly, but to no avail. This thread and diagrams from HH6 will help enormously, thanks guys.

Thank god for warranties.

Pete
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Old 04-03-2005, 11:04   #56
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ME 2 , Having just owned the car less than a week , also sounds like a wheel bearing is away on the left front!!!, cud these two problems be related??? also does anyone have any of these diff bolts for sale????
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Old 05-05-2005, 22:23   #57
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Got the same problem with my Evo 6 GSr this info is priceless thanks for the informative info, ive allready spent £50 having it looked at to no avail.
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Old 06-05-2005, 07:12   #58
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Im trying to find some M8 bolts today and do the job saturday, anybody what oil i will need for the Diff/transfer box?
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Old 07-05-2005, 23:31   #59
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Stripped the trensfer box down today and the bolts were fine, put it back together, still scratching my head anymore ideas?


When people mention top mounts are they referring to engine mount's or to shock mounts?
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Old 23-08-2007, 13:19   #60
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Quote:
Originally posted by FoZzY
Im trying to find some M8 bolts today and do the job saturday, anybody what oil i will need for the Diff/transfer box?
i live near a place that sells bolts to nearly every place in the world....and if enough people want these bolts...12.9 then i will buy them,keep a few and sell the rest at cost....
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