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Old 04-11-2019, 20:02   #121
willox
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Originally Posted by madmatt View Post
Regarding the issue with the aux belt slipping, and potentially having something seized up, I found out that the belt is just not tight enough

The tensioner is fully "released" and yet the belt is not tight, and therefore slipping.

Everything seems to be in place, nothing seized up, but its weird.
Have you tried moving the tensioner? Sounds like it to me,lost its tension and not putting enough pressure against the belt?

Some job doing the underside,500 hour job.Car looks solid,be nice all done with the mods done,3 way suspension is lovely set right.
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Old 23-03-2020, 14:57   #122
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Well, I'm baffled. I've just replaced the aux belt tensioner (MD355488) and when placing the aux belt as the picture below, it won't tension enough:





The tensioner goes its full stroke but the belt is still loose. Any idea what could be the problem?

EDIT: I've noticed a portion of the pulley is missing! Problem solved!

Last edited by madmatt; 23-03-2020 at 15:58..
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Old 23-03-2020, 19:27   #123
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Nice. Red TME FTW
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Bought it, blew it, built it.
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Old 30-03-2020, 10:05   #124
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Well, now it seems kind of obvious, isn't it:



Still wondering how on earth did the missing part fell off without breaking or taking out the aux belt. Well, it broke in 2 parts and fell off but that's... remarkable.



Took the car out, now on std Evo 6 suspension (so 10mm higher than stock TME) while waiting for my uprated one to be installed. Having issues with it at the moment.



The ride is really not good. Car is too high, too soft, and geometry not made for this 10mm height increase, but that will do for now. I know its not very exciting but its all I can post here for now. Oh and I've put new discs and pads all around, as expected it breaks fantastic, and no vibrations!

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Old 30-03-2020, 13:02   #125
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The crank pulley I need to change mine also , i will buy a fluiddamper one .

Besides that, beatiful car as allways !
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Old 30-03-2020, 13:03   #126
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That pulley will have made a swift exit,looking good.Be sorted on the pulley/belt front for a while.
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Old 31-03-2020, 05:56   #127
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Thanks guys! Weather is fantastic this week here and we are not confined so I will take the car out for a drive and make some pictures
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Old 31-03-2020, 08:07   #128
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Lucky guy ! My 6 is in the garage and i think it will for the next 4/5 months... We are in serious lockdown.
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Old 31-03-2020, 17:35   #129
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Nice Mak. That was a bloody lucky escape with the pulley!

I've just noticed you aerial though... what's going on there? That's usually an RS feature but it's on the wrong side. Is it LHD and based on an LHD RS shell?

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Old 01-04-2020, 10:23   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kins View Post
Nice Mak. That was a bloody lucky escape with the pulley!

I've just noticed you aerial though... what's going on there? That's usually an RS feature but it's on the wrong side. Is it LHD and based on an LHD RS shell?
All lhd Evo 6 TMEs I have seen have the aerial on this side
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Old 01-04-2020, 12:25   #131
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All red LHD TME are basically "RS2" evo, so it's an RS (aerial pillar) with "option" (came out of the factory with that) like AYC, airbag, electric windows,....

same for the Evo 6 RS2 (without AYC)
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Old 11-05-2020, 18:53   #132
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Bit of news. Had issues with the supplier of my suspension so I won't be using it this year. Anyway with this corona situation I thought it would be time to tackle the chassis restoration on the car so it will be ready (I hope) for Monte-Carlo WRC 2021 (this will be the car's 20th birthday so why not bring it there ). I won't be doing a full nut and bolt resto (everyone says that I think), but a chassis restoration, which means:

- protect the chassis for winter/salt
- powder coat all steel and aluminium suspension parts
- glavanize all nuts and bolts
- clean every other component I can (gearbox, diffs, etc) but no painting on these parts at this point
- replace worn out parts along the way

Should be pretty straight forward. However I need few advice before I start ordering stuff. Check the pictures here: https://www.lancerregister.com/showp...&postcount=102

What I plan on doing is removing the engine and all underside, then have it sodablasted if I can (will evaluate cost), otherwise I will bring it to bare metal myself. Then for the chassis:

1) I will use a rust converter. Not much rust anyway, but not sure if I want to use Owatrol Oil or directly go to step 2-
2) Apply 1 coat of Korrux 3in1 (https://www.branth-chemie.de/doks/Br...1-Brochure.pdf) with spray gun, which is a semi-gloss 1-component coating, which can be used as well as primer, as intermediate coating or as finish.
3) Then I will apply cavity wax. Maybe techline 777.
4) Then seam sealing with Sikaflex 521. However, not sure if I should first cavity wax or seam seal.
5) Finish it off with a second coat of Korrux 3in1 applied with spray gun.

All this with the aim to finally being able to drive the car in winter and not be afraid of turning it into a Swiss cheese haha. I'm a bit sad to see it won't be 100% original (the car has never been repainted and chassis never touched), but I mean the car has already 120'000km so its not new, its value is not as good as some examples out there, so why not making it weather/time proof!

What do you guys think?
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Old 11-05-2020, 19:15   #133
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Personally I think rust converters are ****, you’re better off taking the effected area to bright steel, and then Phospating. Wax always goes on last.

Sika Flex 529AT is amazing , it will give you a factory finish

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Old 11-05-2020, 20:22   #134
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Porsche use this
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Old 12-05-2020, 08:55   #135
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Thanks! What about the finish? I am thinking of going for a matt finish on the whole underside/engine bay.

Phosphating is out of my budget/possibilities. Not many people doing that over here I'm afraid.
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