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#1 |
Senior User
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 1,629
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Evo 3
Looking at a evo 3
Problems to look for please Are parts still available Engine reliability Anything that may help Ant 1s old car I believe Thanks
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#2 |
Senior User
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Engine is strong and lot of parts from later cars like pistons etc can be fitted if needed, but the E1/2/3&4 can suffer crankwalk issues as the thrust bearing design is poor compared to later cars, when this wear the crank endlfoat goes out of spec and can destroy engine, although if caught early it can sometimes be sorted with just a bearing swap but all depends how far gone it is and condition of everything, some cars go many miles without issue as well.
Other potential issue is Gearbox as they have a weak 4th gear especially if tuned and can spit off a tooth which usually shoots out the bottom of box casing!, i did 3 of these when i had my Evo2 ![]() Other than that great cars when everything is good and i prefer to drive to laters Evos, ive had a E5 and E9 as well as 2 x E2 in past and the early cars served me well over the years and many many miles, i would have another if gearbox parts were available easily, last gbox i had was full rebuild many new parts and lasted 40k+ miles before spitting 4th off again, that car was a 2.3 stroker motor with 400lbs of torque and driven hard though. |
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#3 |
Senior User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10,468
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I always fancied doing a later engine swap on an early. Solves a lot of the above issues but is a big old project
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#4 |
Senior User
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Yes same here if i could get a car cheap enough i would do it but price of the cars is silly now so makes it a hard pill to swallow, the later E5-9 engine/box swap isnt that involved if you have all right bits but there is some fab do to of course with engine and box being 180degree rotated, from memory looking at that one NR did notching the subframe to make space for transmission being main part of it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to thetyrant For This Useful Post: | Mita (13-01-2021) |
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#5 | |
Senior User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10,468
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You’re not wrong, proves now make it a bit of a dead end
![]() Would be awesome to do ![]() Quote:
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#7 |
Senior User
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Not seen that car in years.
I would be checking for rust, the underside used to be mint. Like new in fact but I used it with no underseal as it was dry use only. Not sure what has been applied since. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to ant1 For This Useful Post: | D.D.A (13-01-2021) |
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#8 |
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#9 |
Senior User
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#10 |
Senior User
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#11 |
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Posts: 10,468
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Zealand
Car: CP9A Evolution V
Posts: 563
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Aside from everything mentioned above:
Check the firewall near the clutch master cylinder - really common for them to develop cracks in this area as the firewall flexes when used with a heavy clutch. Rear subframes are prone to cracking near the mounts for the diff "moustache bar" on cars that are launched hard. Roof rust. The number one issue with early Evo's. The sealant bonding the roof skin to the cross bars breaks down and the roof skin rusts from the inside out. If you can see bubbles on the outside it's stuffed, if you can't it's probably on it's way. Black cars are usually the worst (because heat accelerates the process) but they all do it eventually. The only solution is a brand new roof skin.
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#13 |
Registered User
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Its still solid engines strong just needs a bit of TLC, roof is rust free too, pulls like a train gearbox diffs brakes all good
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#14 |
Registered User
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I got straight cut 4th gears as well as oem on the shelf
Skickat från min ANE-LX3 via Tapatalk |
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