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Old 16-06-2017, 22:05   #31
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Or using Tactrix 2.0 and EvoScan, much cheaper
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Old 17-06-2017, 06:50   #32
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Im thinking of taking a day trip over to indigo gt see if ant could help me out as he was very helpful and polite on the phine the other day about the issue and really seemed to kniw his stuff plus obviously well kniwn on here
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Old 17-06-2017, 08:51   #33
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I think that would be the best course of action...
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Old 30-11-2019, 07:11   #34
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Hi all

I got the ABS/ASC + Service required warning on the dash as well and keep getting it every now and then.

We checked at Mitsubishi and it is the C2116 error "ABS Pump Motor Supply Low Voltage".

My car sits for weeks as I have a kodiaq for a daily drive so when I take it out this happens. It may go away if I drive for long periods and then let it sit, start the car again but when I may step hard on the brake while driving I could get the warning light again.

We tested the battery, seems to be ok although it's a fairly old one.

What do you guys propose I should do?

Should I look for an ABS pump?
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Old 30-11-2019, 12:37   #35
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Are you sating that the warning only happens when you brake hard enough for the abs to be activated? And then the light goes out immediately after or only after a restart?

I'd be wondering how and by what that "low voltage" is being measured? It would be a shame to get another pump and go through the significant amount of effort to install it only to find that there's an electrical gremlin still to sort eg earth wire.
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Old 30-11-2019, 12:44   #36
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Quote:
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Are you sating that the warning only happens when you brake hard enough for the abs to be activated? And then the light goes out immediately after or only after a restart?

I'd be wondering how and by what that "low voltage" is being measured? It would be a shame to get another pump and go through the significant amount of effort to install it only to find that there's an electrical gremlin still to sort eg earth wire.
That's what I'm worried about so I'd like to make sure that it isn't an electrical issue.

What I'm saying is that if the warning goes away and after a period of immobility I take the car out again it will start with no warning but if I press the brake hard it could go again.

I'm just trying to understand the conditions of it happening to get to the bottom of it.

But if it's a pump issue wouldn't it stay on until replaced?

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Old 30-11-2019, 17:48   #37
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So within the same day it comes then goes away at next start up.

I also hit the brakes very hard abs kicked in but no warning light.

Any ideas?

Dealer hasn't got any than changing the ABS pump.



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Old 30-11-2019, 18:18   #38
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Found this guide

https://mitsubi****echinfo.com/data/...0022500USA.htm

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Old 01-12-2019, 08:18   #39
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That link needs the asterisks replaced by "shi(no space)t" to read .....mitsubishi(no space)techinfo…….!! lol

Although it's showing this specific (low voltage) fault code, my first suspicion would be one of the wheel speed sensors. What you might try is disconnecting one or more of them and seeing if the warning light comes on immediately (which I think from memory it should). If nothing else it's probably always good from time to time to check the connectors to see that they haven't become contaminated.

But having now read through the contents of the link, it would seem to suggest some kind of problem with the supply wiring to the abs ecu, or a CAN issue. Have you ruled out a battery or alternator issue?

Another thought is whether it might be worth changing the biggish relay in the fuse box in the engine bay. When I replaced my fuel pump relay I was also advised to change all the other relays of the same kind (four or five of then iirc) and the two larger ones, one of which is for the abs. Or, as a quick test, change over the two big relays and see if that makes any difference.
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:02   #40
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Quote:
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That link needs the asterisks replaced by "shi(no space)t" to read .....mitsubishi(no space)techinfo…….!! lol

Although it's showing this specific (low voltage) fault code, my first suspicion would be one of the wheel speed sensors. What you might try is disconnecting one or more of them and seeing if the warning light comes on immediately (which I think from memory it should). If nothing else it's probably always good from time to time to check the connectors to see that they haven't become contaminated.

But having now read through the contents of the link, it would seem to suggest some kind of problem with the supply wiring to the abs ecu, or a CAN issue. Have you ruled out a battery or alternator issue?

Another thought is whether it might be worth changing the biggish relay in the fuse box in the engine bay. When I replaced my fuel pump relay I was also advised to change all the other relays of the same kind (four or five of then iirc) and the two larger ones, one of which is for the abs. Or, as a quick test, change over the two big relays and see if that makes any difference.

Thanks!

I have indeed replaced all relays (with orange and grey ones)

Honestly I haven't ruled out battery issue. My battery is actually a Mercedes one (got my evo from a Mercedes dealer) with 680 EN but we measured it yesterday at 580 EN. In fact I have a gut feeling that it could be the battery not supplying enough amperes to the pump.

I just remembered that after a period of immobility or even after driving the car for not long enough the warning came after breaking. Yesterday having driven the car all day it didn't come on again.

What should be the specs of the battery to make sure its OK?


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Old 02-12-2019, 12:07   #41
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I'm no expert on these matters, but I don't think the cold cranking amps (CCA) capability (denoted by the 680 or 580) is of any relevance in this instance. But it would be worth seeing what the battery voltage reading is with the engine running (to indicate whether the alternator is working properly). I would be looking for in excess of 13volts and could be as high as 14 volts (in my experience).

When you say you "replaced all relays", does that definitely include the two bigger ones (circled in the attached pic)? From memory my "bigger" ones were black, and as far as I know straight like for like replacements with the originals.

EDITED:

Sorry, wild goose chase on the relays. Those two relays are worth changing, but I was wrong about either of them having anything to do with the abs. The one on the left hand side is "AYC/PTS" and the one on the right is engine management related. The ABS appears to have two largish square fuses rated 30A and a 40A on the far left (lilac and blue).
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Old 02-12-2019, 19:22   #42
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Hm. Then I haven't messed with those fuses. I changed the ones that mostly cause some known issues like fuel pump etc. I will fake a picture and share it.

So voltage after startup with engine running is approximately 14V.

Now car sitting from Saturday, as far as I can see it shows 12,2V.

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Old 03-12-2019, 08:46   #43
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Hm. Then I haven't messed with those fuses. I changed the ones that mostly cause some known issues like fuel pump etc. I will fake a picture and share it.

So voltage after startup with engine running is approximately 14V.

Now car sitting from Saturday, as far as I can see it shows 12,2V.

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Sounds like battery and alternator are both fine.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:54   #44
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Should I ask dealer to go through the troubleshooting guide and check cabling?

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Old 03-12-2019, 18:43   #45
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Should I ask dealer to go through the troubleshooting guide and check cabling?

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It's clearly what they should have done already in order to arrive at the conclusion that they could do no more, so maybe you should ask them specifically if that is what they actually did.
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