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Old 13-03-2013, 23:53   #16
benashley
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Ok so far then its more likely not a dropped valve, I need to try and turn engine by hand(without plugs in) .... do I need the cam belt off or on for this?
And I need to drain oil and check for debris.
Leave the timing belt on and try and turn it over by hand. Have you checked the timing to make sure the belt hasnt jumped? I presume you have checked the belt as the cam cover is off? Its a little worrying that the engine is completely locked up.
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Old 13-03-2013, 23:59   #17
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Leave the timing belt on and try and turn it over by hand. Have you checked the timing to make sure the belt hasnt jumped? I presume you have checked the belt as the cam cover is off? Its a little worrying that the engine is completely locked up.
Yes belt cover is off, tension on the belt is not quite as tight as it should be so possible it may have jumped. Although the belt is sound no streaching or signs of wear was put on new last year and only done 1000miles if that. I will look into checking the timing there are dots on the cam cog parts wherethe belt goes and they are aligned so I presume they are there to aid in timing and should be aligned as they are.

What am I looking for or feeling by turning by hand?
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Old 14-03-2013, 00:03   #18
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I shall post some pictures tomorrow that may help/make it easier.
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Old 14-03-2013, 06:34   #19
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Well mine was still running but required block, crank, head, pistons, rods and potentially a new turbo when inspected
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Old 14-03-2013, 06:35   #20
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Think you could be a bit out of your depth with this m8.

I've changed clutches,a few headgaskets etc...on my Renault 5 turbo in the days.

But wouldn't tackle taking my Evo engine apart.

Get it to a professional m8,do your homework on who to take it to,otherwise you could end up with a car on your drive.

And the hardest jigsaw puzzle to put back together ever..

Hope you get it sorted
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Old 14-03-2013, 07:49   #21
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Do not remove belt, you will bend all valves!
Leave it to someone who knows what there doing you will only cost yourself more in the long run.
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Old 14-03-2013, 15:41   #22
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Thanks for all thw replies all greatly appreciated, I have been let down with a trolly jack to get the wheel off and get to the crank properly.
Taken the cam cover off again and now I have an idea what im looking at thanks to the manual. All springs etc.Seem to be seated correctly.
It would appear the cam belt has slipped quite a bit, from what I can see at the moment the crank sprocket has jumped a couple of teeth and also the exhaust side cam has jumped about 3 teeth according to the timing marks on the sprockets.

So obviously at the moment timing needs rectifying and new belt.
Possibly bent the valves?
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Old 14-03-2013, 16:01   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode-x View Post
Thanks for all thw replies all greatly appreciated, I have been let down with a trolly jack to get the wheel off and get to the crank properly.
Taken the cam cover off again and now I have an idea what im looking at thanks to the manual. All springs etc.Seem to be seated correctly.
It would appear the cam belt has slipped quite a bit, from what I can see at the moment the crank sprocket has jumped a couple of teeth and also the exhaust side cam has jumped about 3 teeth according to the timing marks on the sprockets.

So obviously at the moment timing needs rectifying and new belt.
Possibly bent the valves?
from what you have said above you should
- remove and put the belt back on correctly (may have to turn the bottom end backwards by hand and try to turn cams by hand to allow for movement as it sounds like you have a piston touching a valve atm)

- try to turn engine over by hand at least 2-3 turns to see if it moves freely by hand

- if turns over fine remove ht leads and turn engine over using starter motor

- if it turns over by starter motor then do a compression check to check all cylinders have equal compression

- if compression check is ok re connect the HT leads and try to start it.

FINGERS crossed for you but it sounds like you may have a few bent valves in their.
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Old 14-03-2013, 16:25   #24
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Thank you very much "rob2.2" this seems a lot more promising and cheaper than I was originally expecting.
Providing I get past the compression check and it starts all ok, can I presume its drivable?
Or worth changing the valves anyway?
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Old 14-03-2013, 16:28   #25
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Thank you very much "rob2.2" this seems a lot more promising and cheaper than I was originally expecting.
Providing I get past the compression check and it starts all ok, can I presume its drivable?
Or worth changing the valves anyway?
if you have the correct compression on all 4 cylinders, try starting it , if it runs fine their is no reason not to drive it and go buy a lottery ticket as luck is on your side.
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Old 14-03-2013, 17:11   #26
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Originally Posted by rob2.2 View Post
from what you have said above you should
- remove and put the belt back on correctly (may have to turn the bottom end backwards by hand and try to turn cams by hand to allow for movement as it sounds like you have a piston touching a valve atm)

- try to turn engine over by hand at least 2-3 turns to see if it moves freely by hand

- if turns over fine remove ht leads and turn engine over using starter motor

- if it turns over by starter motor then do a compression check to check all cylinders have equal compression

- if compression check is ok re connect the HT leads and try to start it.

FINGERS crossed for you but it sounds like you may have a few bent valves in their.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode-x View Post
Thank you very much "rob2.2" this seems a lot more promising and cheaper than I was originally expecting.
Providing I get past the compression check and it starts all ok, can I presume its drivable?
Or worth changing the valves anyway?
If your timing has jumped, you also need to check the balance belt, as these can break, go through the timing belt, causing it to lose the timing, and generally servere engine damage, though 1 or 2 people get away without serious damage

Stu
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Old 14-03-2013, 20:33   #27
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If your timing has jumped, you also need to check the balance belt, as these can break, go through the timing belt, causing it to lose the timing, and generally servere engine damage, though 1 or 2 people get away without serious damage

Stu
I will check the balance belt too, I did have this changed not long after the cam belt (1000 or so milesago) as this belt did snap and damaged the crank angle position sensor which was replaced.... alaso changed the cam sensor at the same time.
But will have a check while im on it all.
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Old 14-03-2013, 20:40   #28
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I have ordered myself a 3t trolly jack now. Although have to work now till a week Saturday. However, if I can get it on stands before then and check all this out I will and update here. Thank you all some perfect information and could possibly saved me £££'s
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Old 19-03-2013, 16:48   #29
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Had my lifting kit delivered today, its up on stands took rocker (cam) cover off plugs out (found the end of one plug to be completly broken off - nearest the camshaft sprocket) slowly turned the crank and on inspection inside this chamber I can see what looks like 3 valves sat on top of the piston.

So I guess I need to take all the belts off and the cylinder head to get and see exactly how much damage is done?
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Old 19-03-2013, 16:52   #30
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So I guess I need to take all the belts off and the cylinder head to get and see exactly how much damage is done?

Pretty much the case, whip the head off and see whats happened.
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