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Old 14-08-2020, 18:51   #1
OllieT&E24
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Forged Engine Run In

Hi there all, hope you're all well.

So, I'm getting ready in the next few days or so to drop my freshly rebuilt, forged engine back in the car and this is a pretty big question I need to know the answer to.

Now, the car previously has two maps. One at 1.3 and one at 1.55 bar of boost on the stock Evo 5 turbo. The high boost map made 360hp and made that with a 3" elbow, 3" downpipe, blitz nurspec, drop in pump, JMF manifold and cosworth panel filter.

The setup now is completely different. It's a 2.0 long rod with Kelford 272's, ported and polished head, port matched manifold with 70mm throttle body, Manley springs and retainers, Asnu 1050cc injectors, 2.5" intercooler piping, ETS 4" Evo 8 intercooler, and a plethora of other parts including that JMF manifold and a Evo 9 80 series with a 20g wheel conversion.

I'm not sure if anything else would play a part but how am I going to run the engine in? Everything is going to be so far out haha.

I'm planning to stay stock ECU and go speed density as I really don't have the money right now for a Link. So figured, stay stock and keep it conservative for now. But is there a way to flash like a base map on to it so I can drive it around "safely" for the run in period etc?

Any help on this issue would be much appreciated thanks!

Last edited by OllieT&E24; 14-08-2020 at 18:56..
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Old 14-08-2020, 19:59   #2
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Just wondering... but why don’t you get the advice off the person who built it?
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Old 14-08-2020, 22:49   #3
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Just wondering... but why donít you get the advice off the person who built it?
I'm guessing that looking at his previous posts, he's built it himself.
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Old 14-08-2020, 22:56   #4
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Well then he should know the answer
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Old 15-08-2020, 20:23   #5
OllieT&E24
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Well then he should know the answer
Yeah, I built it but I was thinking monitor AFR's and stay with standard injectors and if it runs well enough, drive it about a bit and run it in but I don't know how safe that'll be. Ideally want to base map flash the my ECU so it's safe
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Old 15-08-2020, 20:32   #6
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Originally Posted by OllieT&E24 View Post
Yeah, I built it but I was thinking monitor AFR's and stay with standard injectors and if it runs well enough, drive it about a bit and run it in but I don't know how safe that'll be. Ideally want to base map flash the my ECU so it's safe
Pay a competent mapper

some are not .
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Old 15-08-2020, 22:24   #7
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Don't over think it just drive it. I used Millar running in oil twice and then Fuchs Titan 10/50 and give it some.
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Old 16-08-2020, 09:26   #8
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As above, just drive it, couple of oil changes. Just don’t go mad on the boost
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Old 17-08-2020, 04:29   #9
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Forged Engine Run In

Run it on the dyno while mapping. Use mineral oil for the first couple of oil changes, then synthetic oil when run in.

Put car on dyno, drive gently, varying load/revs for 30 miles or so, off boost.

Change oil and filter, cut old filter open to look for any debris/metal.

Put car back on dyno and run with more load/revs/mild boost for another 30 miles or so.

Change oil, then put back on dyno and work up to max load/revs/boost for another 30 miles.

Change mineral oil for synthetic oil, and fit new filter. Cut old filter open to look for debris/metal. Finished.

Youíll have it done in a day. Thereís no need to run it in for 1000 miles, or even 500 miles, or any of that nonsense.

Go and kick its head in.

Last edited by Beef Curtains; 17-08-2020 at 04:32..
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Old 17-08-2020, 08:12   #10
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Think about it logically...

What controls AFR and what controls boost?

If your boost control setup hasn't changed from before, then the boost ought to still be controlled within reason. (If you've changed from standard 2 port boost control to an aftermarket 3 port, then some significant changes will need to be made...)

If you'll be using EvoScan and EcuFlash to tne the ECU, then the one thing that probably needs changing is the injector size in the mapping.

You're not going to be putting any real stress on the engine to begin with, so the existing timing map ought to run the car OK.

You may need to tweak the idle settings so the car runs and doesn't cut out at idle. (It's been such a long time since I've looked at EcuFlash, I can't remember what idle inputs can be changed, lol?)

With those minimal things done in the old map, what are people's thoughts on running the car in, on the road, on light throttle and varying low loads? (A self-builder probably hasn't got easy access to a dyno?)
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Last edited by Rampant; 17-08-2020 at 08:14..
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Old 20-08-2020, 22:17   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beef Curtains View Post
Run it on the dyno while mapping. Use mineral oil for the first couple of oil changes, then synthetic oil when run in.

Put car on dyno, drive gently, varying load/revs for 30 miles or so, off boost.

Change oil and filter, cut old filter open to look for any debris/metal.

Put car back on dyno and run with more load/revs/mild boost for another 30 miles or so.

Change oil, then put back on dyno and work up to max load/revs/boost for another 30 miles.

Change mineral oil for synthetic oil, and fit new filter. Cut old filter open to look for debris/metal. Finished.

Youíll have it done in a day. Thereís no need to run it in for 1000 miles, or even 500 miles, or any of that nonsense.

Go and kick its head in.
This was sort of the way I was leaning towards doing it. However, after speaking to Norris Designs, they don't really bother doing this for people as it isn't really worth their time. Norris's run in period for road run in is more or less what you said above but without the dyno

It'll still have all the previous boost controllers and original setup on it. I am probably going to throw in some standard 560cc injectors which is what it was mapped on before and it should run and drive well enough for the run in period.

Thanks all for the responses. If anyone else has any input, please post up!
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Old 22-08-2020, 03:42   #12
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The only change to what Beef Curtains has said that I would do is use a specific break in oil rather than mineral. Something from Driven would be my preference.
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Old 22-08-2020, 10:14   #13
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Initially my engine builder would drive the car at a pretty much constant speed of around 60mph for an hour or so - in 5th gear. That was using mineral oil. Then change for fresh mineral oil and start to introduce speed and load variation for another amount of mileage (can't recall how many). Then on to regular oil and potentially full beans thereafter.
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Old 22-08-2020, 19:24   #14
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drive up a hill or slope and rev to 40-50 mph and D accelerate not touching gas pedal ? helps sealing piston rings


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