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Old 14-07-2019, 17:58   #121
Mita
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I always fancied doing the Ralliart under the blade . Nice one looks good
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Old 15-07-2019, 11:15   #122
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I always fancied doing the Ralliart under the blade . Nice one looks good
I have a spare (actually I have 2) that I can offer for what it cost me - 10, but no idea what it would cost to send and not sure how to send it without risk of damage.

I had 2 extra spares cut because it was cheaper to get them at the same time. It was gonna be 25 for one, 35 for 2 or 45 for 3. Unit cost came down and you never know when you'll mess up putting vinyl on the car, so spares were potentially very useful...

Could always wait until a car show or event somewhere. For instance, me and a mate are expecting to spectate at Santa Pod on 10 Aug.

Cheerz

Mark H
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Old 15-07-2019, 20:43   #123
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This arrived today...




What's in the box?








For anyone with a brain that has an engineering background, or can visualise in 3D - check out the c-spanners and you'll quickly realise why they are so "brilliant"...




These are the basic Zeta CRD coilovers. Meister have a 5% discount in their web shop using code MLR

Hopefully fit them myself at the weekend


(Then book a 4-wheel alignment straight afterwards?)

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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
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C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////

Last edited by Rampant; 15-07-2019 at 20:44..
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Old 16-07-2019, 18:29   #124
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Have the same ones fitted to my 6RS and am very happy with them for the price
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Old 16-07-2019, 20:22   #125
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Have the same ones fitted to my 6RS and am very happy with them for the price
I had a good long chat with the MeisterR suspension engineer (the guy that developed the GT1s using my previous IX as the test car) prior to ordering these
I'm expecting them to be perfectly adequate on my road-going VI and we'll judged for UK roads.
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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
J'ai trouve l'orgasme d'auto
C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 16-07-2019, 20:28   #126
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Still at this old evo malarkey i see ....one may now call thee the Meister meister
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Old 16-07-2019, 21:26   #127
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Still at this old evo malarkey i see ....one may now call thee the Meister meister
One may...

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//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 09:11   #128
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Removing a front door card

Been a while since last post, even though I've made some more progress on the car, again...

First up was a couple of weekends ago, getting inside the front passenger door skin.

If anybody needs to know how to remove the door cards - here is a quick explanation.

There are 4 screws to remove on the door card:

One on top/back of door shut above the latch



One on top/front of door shut under the wing mirror - under the domed plastic cover



One in bottom of door handle



and finally, one in top/front of opening lever recess




The last one when removed allows the recess trim to be removed by pulling the lever forwards slightly and slipping the trim out and forwards




Once these screws are all removed, the door handle needs to be popped up at the back, levered up and lifted out backwards, and then the electrical wiring plug fro the electric windows need to be disconnected to free the door handle from the car.

Finally, get your fingers under the bottom of the door card and prise the poppers out to release the bottom of the door card. The door card does not fit flush to the door at the bottom - there is a slight gap to grip with your finger tips. 4 poppers secure the door card at the bottom, and they ideally need to be popped free at the same time, so use both hands. Do not use a tool to prise the card free - this risks damage to the paint on the door and also damage to the door card itself.

Once the bottom is free, it is a fairly gentle process to un-pop the remaining plastic poppers around the sides and top of the door, but just keep holding the bottom of the door card and angling it out from the bottom of the door.

The very top edge of the door trim sits inside a plastic rail at the bottom of the window glass. This plastic rail stays on the car and has a recess that the top lip of the door card fits inside... hence the reason to remove the door card from the bottom first.

This picture with the door card removed, you can easily identify the holes where the plastic poppers all fit.

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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
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C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 10:02   #129
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Front Passenger Door Internals

^^^In the final picture above, the bodge tape was a temporary measure from when I fitted the door speaker, just to keep the splash membrane in place and to prevent any of the sticky mess of old butyl adhesive from getting on the back of the door cards

A few more close ups of the 20 year old, shrunk, hardened and brittle plastic damp membrane:

Door speaker removed. Brittle, cracked plastic exposed




Bottom corner of shrunken membrane




In this next picture, I've already removed screws that secure the door handle bracket and door opening lever mechanism. I've also removed the foam spacer/damper from the control rods.

**Note the position of the slit in membrane where control rods pass from behind to in front**




Next up, the plastic sheet is removed to reveal that there is a fair amount of dust inside this side of the car's door, as well as the old butyl adhesive strip that has been dragged forwards by shrinking plastic sheet.





The dust needs to be thoroughly cleaned out of the door cavity in order to properly fit sound deadening sheets and in order that and WaxOyl or other cavity wax/treatment does its job properly.


All the crappy old adhesive also needs to be removed and replaced by fresh butyl mastic beads




Similarly to driver's door, completed previously^^ - to remove old adhesive I found the best tools were a glass/paint scraper - the style that is a plastic handle that holds a Stanley blade, just to get the majority of the adhesive lifted away from areas that are "flat", then "Plenty" kitchen roll (it doesn't disintegrate like other kitchen roll!) coated with a splurge of DeSolvIt Sticky stuff Remover and rubbed over remnants of black adhesive.
Messy job. Not a quick job either. Takes a bit of time to clean up.

Once the sticky stuff remover has done it's thing, the surface then needs to be cleaned and prepared for new adhesive by wiping down thoroughly with IPA. If not, then the adhesive won't form a proper lasting bond with the paintwork where sticky stuff remover has been used.


Next step once everything is cleaned back is to mock up the placement of the plastic sheet membrane, and to make the slit for the control levers.
From the pictures above, the slit was slightly aft of the forward gold bolt head fitted in the upper door frame.
Place the sheet (passenger door orientation) with the top left corner of the plastic at the top left corner of the door frame, and mark where the slit needs to be made for the control rods.

Next couple of photos show the cut plastic positioned over the door opening/locking lever control rods and the first bead of mastic already placed on the upper door frame



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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
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C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 10:18   #130
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***I haven't included pictures above of the any sound deadening fitment or of the WaxOyl sprayed into the cleaned out door cavities, but clearly this needs to be completed prior to fitting the damp membrane plastic sheet as I did in the driver's door narrative in a previous post***

Once the positioning of the plastic membrane is good - secure it onto the top bead of adhesive, smoothly, all the way from front to rear. This should be sufficient to support the weight of the plastic sheet without it slipping around or gently creeping downwards.

*** Also - don't forget to then mark out and cut a slit where you want the wiring block for the electric windows to pass through the membrane. ***

Then it is a case of lifting up the bottom and sides of the membrane sheet and pinning it back with something or tucking it into the door in some way, and then securing fresh beads of butyl adhesive to the door frame all the way around the door edge and the speaker cavity if desired.

The final fitment ought to look something similar to these:








The last part of fitting the membrane is to ensure the electric window wiring is passed through the plastic, as well as any door speaker wiring is also passed through and speaker re-fitted into the speaker cavity, and finally to re-fit the sponge spacer to the door lever control rods before replacing the door card.
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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
J'ai trouve l'orgasme d'auto
C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 10:59   #131
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Component speakers - tweeter placement

Before replacing the door card, however, it was my opportunity to potentially ruin the door card by cutting a great hole in it with a hole saw and Stanley blade.

As before, here are the factory embossed markings from when the door card frame came out of the mould (for orientation, the door card is upside down):



So that's where I used the hole-cutter on an electric drill to cut through the plastic backing, while trying not to also cut through the front vinyl trim.


Success.

[what a massive relief!]

In the next pictures, the size of the hole can just about be visualised from where the top vinyl is kinda recessed. I managed not to cut through the vinyl . The idea here is to cut the hole in the vinyl a fair size smaller than the hole in the plastic backing...






And once the circular hole has been slowly and *carefully* cut into the vinyl, the blade can be used at an angle to slice away at the foam sandwich in between the vinyl and plastic...




Once cut away, looks like this:






Here's how stretchy and pliable the vinyl edge remains:




Which then forms a good seal and fitment around the teewter when pushed firmly into the hole:






No extra or further retaining clips or fasteners are required for the tweeter, it really is firm enough to leave like this - wedging into the cavity and held in place by the compressed vinyl skirting.



Completing the task by:

-offering the door card loosely back up to the door frame;
-wiring up the tweeter in the exact same way as previous post;
-dropping door handle into door card recess;
-clipping the electrics back onto the electric window switch;
-angling top of door card into recess in plastic top rail;
- popping plastic poppers back on - top, middle, then bottom, bottom may require a firm spanking;
-and four screws;



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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
J'ai trouve l'orgasme d'auto
C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 14:20   #132
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Speaker upgrade



I also have to report that the sound is vastly improved with these component speakers. Having the tweeters raised onto the upper door card (or to the interior part of the wing mirror mount) is highly recommended - the sound stage is far superior. Lifts the sound out of the footwell and creates far better clarity and separation.

Initially, the tweeters were a bit fuzzy and hissy, but that's them probably just breaking in.

Also having the other speakers that I originally acquired for the doors - a set of Sony co-axials - moved to the rear parcel shelf, this helps the sound even further. The whole car is filled with ambience.

Apparently, some audiophiles prefer having no rear speakers at all, in favour of having the sound-stage all originating from in front of them. That's just weird to me. I get it if we're talking about home audio. Music does sound better at home in pure stereo mode, rather than having some kind of surround audio active. That much I agree with. But not in a car. I tried this many times - using the fader to cancel out the rear speakers altogether. That sound comes across as one-dimensional and contrived to me, so I'm sold on rear speakers. Just enough fader to fill the rear channels with some volume and bring the origin of the sound away from the dashboard area.

Overall, a highly recommended, but still relatively inexpensive addition to the Evo. Particularly since I bought the audio parts bit by bit over an extended period. Bought in a one-er, it's not what I would call "affordable" for an average dude, but that's the beauty of bit, by, bit upgrades:

Stereo = Sony MEX-N6001BT ~ 90
Front speakers = Hertz Uno K165 Component ~ 75
Rear speakers = Sony XS-FB1730 - 35
Harnesses (stereo & speaker) / sundries ~ 30
Sound deadening = Silent Coat 2mm - 25

Total spend ~ 250

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C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 14:45   #133
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Coilovers going on

What a job this turned out to be!

Having done this changing coilovers a couple of times before, it was a bit more of a lengthy task this time around.

Fronts weren't so bad. I think this is the first time that the lower suspension bolts had ever been touched. Quite easy to crack loose manually with a breaker bar. I also marked the top camber bolt lightly with a dremel bit to remain certain of the original orientation.

Originals in situ:




Front strut removed, lower area:




Front strut tower looking quite clean :




Meister-R Zeta CRD on the car:





The rears were where I ran into a slow-me-down issue.
Previously, when removing coilovers from my IX, only the lower coilover bolt needed to be removed. The lower arm could be pushed down slightly and that left enough space for the coilover bottom fork to lift over and well clear of the lower suspension arm.
Of course, I'd never removed standard (full length) suspension before, so I struggled in vain for quite a long time trying to lever down the lower arm and lift the strut, but all to no avail - the lower fork of the damper just wouldn't clear over the lower arm.
Eventually, I realised I could crack the outer lower arm bolt and drop the lower arm entirely. That solved the removal issue. However, getting the ball joints into the correct orientation on the hub while manually lifting the entire assembly and coilover into the strut tower was still a royal pain on my already tired arms.
Then I realised I had an old jack in the garage and used that to support the lower arm while I manipulated the ball joint back into the hub and spanked the bolt through.

Overall, a lengthy job that could've been made a lot shorter if I'd maybe had a bit of a think about my technique beforehand...
Always easy in hindsight.

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Je cherche l'orgasme d'auto
J'ai trouve l'orgasme d'auto
C'est une evo VI bleu par le Rountree

***Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon***
//// Do as you OUGHT, not as you WANT ////
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Old 25-07-2019, 18:47   #134
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Cracking job your doing to the Evo and such a knowledgeable thread. Keep posting.
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Old 25-07-2019, 22:51   #135
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Fantastic job Mark! Cheers for detailed descriptions!
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