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Old 25-07-2017, 14:44   #16
Clivew
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Some people don't have access to them I am afraid.. I am old school, I have work laptop and do not own a PC and have not for over 10 years... So I can not open the manual....
If you have a laptop, and you access the MLR with it, then you can access the manuals. You can access the manuals with an I-phone, I-pad, Android phone etc. You don't need a PC.

Then there is the small fact that this question has been asked and answered numerous times, and all these threads are available to view if you search for them, or does your laptop not work for that either?

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I had to ask the same question about 6 weeks ago, but instead I asked a friend rather than posting on here to get abuse for "simple" questions...
Actually, the last time you asked, I told you of an App you can download to your I-phone to enable you to download and access the manuals. That's help in my book, not abuse.

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If its a stupid question, why reply!!
Because other members, such as Mike, may learn that the manuals are available on the MLR, for those that are willing to make the effort to access them. Amazingly enough, it's not all about you.
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Old 25-07-2017, 15:08   #17
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Clive - have you been hanging around with Aidy again. Go easy it's just the internets lolz.
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Old 25-07-2017, 17:25   #18
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Isaac and his bloody apple

Lets get back to the real world where the wheel nut torque is 70 lbf ft !

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Old 27-07-2017, 08:04   #19
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If you use copper slip or similar anti-seize lubricant on the stud threads - don't forget to reduce the torque slightly.

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Old 27-07-2017, 08:37   #20
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DO NOT put copper slip on your wheel studs !!! Just put a wire brush over the studs to clean
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Old 27-07-2017, 12:49   #21
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If you're using alloy nuts on steel studs - DO put a small amount of copperslip or similar on the contact area to prevent sacrificial corrosion and seizing. Additionally, reduce the torque setting by a small amount because it takes less twist force to create the same clamp load when the threads are lubricated.

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Old 27-07-2017, 13:13   #22
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Wheel but torque settings evo8

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampant View Post
If you're using alloy nuts on steel studs - DO put a small amount of copperslip or similar on the contact area to prevent sacrificial corrosion and seizing. Additionally, reduce the torque setting by a small amount because it takes less twist force to create the same clamp load when the threads are lubricated.

Cheerz

Mark H


Why would you reduce your torque setting ?It should make no difference if you use lubricant or not .contact area? Do you mean on the thread or on the face of the hub where the wheel surface meets ?

I will edit my statement about the lubricated thread and torque setting
It will have a difference as you pointed out. But I would still recommend not using lubricant on studs or bolts just make sure they are cleaned with wire brush and torque to spec . Would only put copper slip around the wheel face contact with the hub


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Old 27-07-2017, 13:14   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampant View Post
If you're using alloy nuts on steel studs - DO put a small amount of copperslip or similar on the contact area to prevent sacrificial corrosion and seizing. Additionally, reduce the torque setting by a small amount because it takes less twist force to create the same clamp load when the threads are lubricated.

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Even better, don't use alloy nuts
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Old 27-07-2017, 20:09   #24
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Why would you reduce your torque setting ?It should make no difference if you use lubricant or not .contact area? Do you mean on the thread or on the face of the hub where the wheel surface meets ?

I will edit my statement about the lubricated thread and torque setting
It will have a difference as you pointed out. But I would still recommend not using lubricant on studs or bolts just make sure they are cleaned with wire brush and torque to spec . Would only put copper slip around the wheel face contact with the hub


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If using alloy nuts - and they're perfectly safe to use - you should really protect against sacrificial corrosion so the nuts don't seize onto the studs due to the chemical interaction between steel and aluminium alloy. A very light dab is all that's required between the threaded contacts. It sounds like you understand the principle of torque on nuts and bolts versus the clamp loads those nuts and bolts generate. A lubricated thread will turn more easily and torquing to "normal" levels puts increased stress in the thread area, which increases the risk of stripping threads and cracking nuts.

Cheerz

Mark H
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Old 27-07-2017, 20:12   #25
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Even better, don't use alloy nuts
Nothing wrong with properly engineered alloy nuts. Even open ended ones are fine as long as they are of quality material. Internal drive open ended alloy nuts - such as Utralite ones - can even have a reinforced open end to prevent splitting.

Yours Aye

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Old 27-07-2017, 20:12   #26
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Even better, don't use alloy nuts
This ^^^
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Old 27-07-2017, 22:17   #27
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This ^^^
Porsche has a history of using alloy wheel bolts on high end applications. Nothing wrong with them they're absolutely fine. Provided they're correct grade, etc. As already noted.
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Old 27-07-2017, 23:03   #28
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Nothing wrong with properly engineered alloy nuts. Even open ended ones are fine as long as they are of quality material. Internal drive open ended alloy nuts - such as Utralite ones - can even have a reinforced open end to prevent splitting.

Yours Aye

Mark H
I'm sure that's correct and not really my point. It never ceases to amaze me how even the most basic aspects of car maintenance are so badly understood and/or executed. Therefore, in the interests of keeping things as simple as possible it is helpful to have a "one size fits all" rule, which in this case I believe is single value torque setting ie of 110Nm. And as such would indicate the use of steel wheel nuts without the need to create the anti-sacrificial corrosion barrier in the form of something like copperslip.
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Old 27-07-2017, 23:41   #29
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Porsche has a history of using alloy wheel bolts on high end applications. Nothing wrong with them they're absolutely fine. Provided they're correct grade, etc. As already noted.
I know a few owners of 944's who changed to steel nuts due to the aluminium ones corroding and breaking. I don't think any motorsport regulation allows aluminium wheel nuts, and that's for a reason. They corrode, fatigue quicker, wear out quicker and are more likely to loosen due to differential expansion of the nut and stud. They also have a lower tensile strength compared to high tensile steel ones.

In reality, the issues are more to do with removing and fitting rather than them failing and the wheel falling off!

There are plenty of lightweight steel nuts available, so there really should be no need to use aluminium ones. There is no way on earth I'd use aluminium nuts, regardless of their spec, due to the issues I mentioned.
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Old 28-07-2017, 07:34   #30
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And as such would indicate the use of steel wheel nuts without the need to create the anti-sacrificial corrosion barrier in the form of something like copperslip.
I always use copperslip because even the stock studs and nuts will corrode and the grease will allow for more precise torque on the nuts.. (sounds like BDSM po%n doesnt it.. hahaah)
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