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Old 11-03-2020, 19:50   #1
Mita
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Can belt change

Evening all..

Can anyone tell me what special tools are needed for a cam and balance belt change? Iíve not done a 63 before. Had a quick look last weekend. Looks bloody tight getting to everything. Any hints and tips? Looked to me itís easier to take the whole engine out
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:51   #2
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Are you just changing the belt, or tensioner too

Main thing to know and understand is the balance belt timing, as its geared 2:1 with the crank, you need to know how to get that right

I would also suggest if you are re-using the tensioner, you take it off and close it up to get the pin back in, in a vice, dont do what I did using a threaded bar type tool, and let in bend by winding it in too quickly on the tensioner, so the bar bends and wont come back out again

IIRC i think I also wished I had the small 2 pin tool for tensioning the balance belt, though I managed it without

Stu
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:14   #3
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Thanks Stu,

will be getting new tensioner, AUx tensioner all the belts and pulleys. So no need for tensioner tool. But yes did want to get the 2 pin one. Can’t find it at Ross ? So not sure where to get them? I have impact tools so shouldn’t be any need for a flywheel tool for crank bolt.

Yep I have a good understanding of front balance , the screwdriver trick can be used. But I’ve also seen that it should fall back towards the crank side if correct also.

My main concern is room to get at it all! Looks bloody tight, and my hands are not the smallest

I was half considering engine out as it’s literally just handing on 2 mounts at the min with no transfer, or sub or north south!

Spoken to Martin (Willox) whos given some good tips. I’ve done loads of other cars, just wanted to check on the 63 .


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Originally Posted by stu8 View Post
Are you just changing the belt, or tensioner too

Main thing to know and understand is the balance belt timing, as its geared 2:1 with the crank, you need to know how to get that right

I would also suggest if you are re-using the tensioner, you take it off and close it up to get the pin back in, in a vice, dont do what I did using a threaded bar type tool, and let in bend by winding it in too quickly on the tensioner, so the bar bends and wont come back out again

IIRC i think I also wished I had the small 2 pin tool for tensioning the balance belt, though I managed it without

Stu
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:29   #4
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space wise its not too bad once you get in there, i'd rely on the fall as well as the screwdriver, though getting to the screwdriver hole is a little awkward, use the fall as the check

I didnt have the 2 pin tool, used a decent sized pair of circlip pliers

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Old 12-03-2020, 11:18   #5
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Nice one Stu, good stuff
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Old 13-03-2020, 09:02   #6
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It's not too bad, I still think the worst part of the job is getting the covers off, closely followed by the 15 min wait after 3 rotations at the end to check the hydraulic tensioner is still where it was! The 4 bolts for the water pump are a bit fiddly but not rocket science. Otherwise it's pretty easy with the OS jacket up and wheel off.

Given you need to drop the engine mount I'd consider dropping the engine if it's only 1 more mount.

Have you downloaded the workshop manuals and looked through the instructions?

I personally didn't bother dropping the main crank bolt out as if you carefully rotate the crank a few degrees you can get the balance belt past the standard trigger disc when you have removed the CAS. If you're doing the idlers you need to pull the PAS pump bracket out of the way and lower the engine down or the bolt will not be coming out!

Also get a cam locking tool if you can. Unlike almost every other engine I've played with the inlet cam doesn't want to naturally stay anywhere near TDC. Ross sells them but I have one you can borrow, as well as the 2 pin tool to set the tensioner. You can get by without both, sure I saw a thread where someone used 2 spanners on the cam nuts and cable tie to lock the cams.

As for the oil pump gear/ balance weight there's a bolt on the front of the block you can put screwdriver or 1/4" extension bar in to verify the oil pump is timed correctly. Alternatively you can go full on country style and do what I did last time (turns out the TT elbow prevents access to said hole) and put a small pair of mole grips on the oil pump nut to give a position reference (see the pic on the multi-tooth wheel thread) as the aim is to prevent a 360 turn.
You don't need the threaded bar IMO, that's only there to reset the hydraulic tensioner and as Stu said go slow winding it down, I did the same as him on my first time. It's standard M8 thread so a piece of studding and 2 nuts locked together if you decide you do want to wind the tensioner back in before removal.

Looks like the last question is are you going HKS purple, TODA red or Gates/ Cosworth blue belts


Thought I was having a sense of deja-vu... https://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=537681
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Old 13-03-2020, 13:19   #7
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Great info, thanks

Probably will go gates
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