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Old 08-03-2018, 12:54   #16
NasEvo
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Thanks Gav,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavalar View Post
U can tell as the brown glass drip should sit the same distance up from bottom of bar in your pic right hand unit is lower then lest suggesting ridge needs packing off from wall slightly to square . When u put paper on glass socket at bottom where ring beam is , line it up on the glass next to bar on the wall . It will probably ope up as it goes up the glass
I'm Good to use 3,4,5 and checking the bars are square. I didn't quite understand what you mean by putting paper on the glass socket..

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Originally Posted by Gavalar View Post
More pics of full length of bars so I can see how glass is sitting . Ali bar sits correct distance in one pic but house wall pic u can see bar has slid down lower . This is Because bolt does not go through bar it slides in the Chanel
I'll be posting as soon as I get home later So the bar has slide down from the top? I'm hoping I can make a list of things to discuss with the manager when he comes tomorrow and try get them to do do as you are suggesting. If not i'll get my DIY hat on

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That leadwork is terrible
Including yourself I've had 3 others tell me the same thing - What leg should I stand on when i talk to the manager ?
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Old 08-03-2018, 13:10   #17
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Lead work . Minimum splash upstand is 150 mill . When ie u get a square piece of anything it should when laid on the glass internally touch the edge of bar and the bottom or top socket ie be square imagine putting a square on ring beam it should then be perfect at the edge of bar . Ie square . If your really stuck I will pop (lol) round I’m Heathrow . I can sort anything mate
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Old 08-03-2018, 13:16   #18
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Lead height is not to protect leaks , if it is correct at any height it won’t leak . What it does as splash from water hitting Surface can bounce up on to wall above is stop damp . Even if u did not have a leak but house was plastered and cavity trays were not installed on pouruss bricks the rain splashes up above 100 mm lead hits wall then soaks through naturally creating damp . Hence 150 minimum . I use 240 or nine inch lead 25 mm into wall 30 mm into glazing socket still leaving over the 150 mininmum . Lead is very expensive hence the fact people cut 240 mm down the middle
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Old 08-03-2018, 13:45   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavalar View Post
Feel free to look on web site your roof is at seal or global both same but diff supplier it will show u section . If company are being complete ***** I might be able to help but Iím near Heathrow . 26 years of window and conservatories
Thank you, I really appreciate the support and help you have given me. Just had a look at the global technical brochure and it makes sense how it's all constructed now and just confirms my suspicions that the fitter bodged the jobs to make it fit.

For example the conservatory was supplied with a wall rafter for the lead so that when the top cap goes on it looks neat and tidy. Whats the point if the rest looks like poo.

I see what you mean though at the end of the day, what matters now is how the glass sits in the rafters and the glass closest to the house is not level or equally positioned and the lead although re-done aesthetically looks poo. (which i'm hoping when i repaint the render will tidy it up a little) As for the Gap between the wall rafter and wall i'm guessing although not ideal my best option is to get them to pack it in and equally position the glass on the rafter?

CAB consumer advice said it's i have got grounds for poor workmanship and although i was reluctant to say who the company is I accidentally said the company name and they logged the call and said to call back if they give me **** and that my consumer right is if i need to get the work re-worked i have the right to use someone else and charge them for it so I'll be more than happy to pay for your time to drive up to me although it's not ideal for you, i feel like i'd owe it to you first for helping me and to get first dibs.

Gav, You don't happen to have any pictures of a conservatory where the house is partially rendered by any chance do you?

Hopefully, your advice should pull me through this stress and I appreciate the time you have already given me. I'm getting married in a few weeks and it's not something i really wanting to be dealing with at the moment
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Old 08-03-2018, 14:12   #20
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im no expert he but this looks like a right mess all round, that lead flashing looks like its been down by the builders dog ,that looks properly amature
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Old 08-03-2018, 17:20   #21
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Sadly moody lead work will not create a leak on bar two as in pic it would have to track a long way . Have leaksbeen resolves from there new lead .i would sayno
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Old 08-03-2018, 17:22   #22
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U can tell a lot from a photo send more . I think u will still get leak on rafter no 2 .donít think lead caused that .time will tell keep me posted mate . Weather nearly good I could blast there only 100 miles �� and 100 back

Last edited by Gavalar; 08-03-2018 at 17:24..
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Old 08-03-2018, 21:04   #23
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Hi there
Firstly can I point out that the ring beam will and is correct to the size of the roof to allow for the 15mm of render difference to the house also the lead work looks ok on the wall rafters this is not where your problem is.
On your last pics the wall rafter cap does not look like it has been knocked in to place correctly.
The major concern you have here is as you have a glass roof fitted in a rosewood conservatory which over the summer months and warm weather will expand and contract which in turn will move the glass roof especially as there should be anti slip glass blocks fitted to all glass to bottom of every rafter left and right the little nylon l shaped block in your pic. This prevents the glass from slipping down also keeping all the glass level and correctly squared sitting in the same position after such events of expansion and contraction.
This brings me to the leaking roof you have from your picture with the glass block in on the left and silicone on the other side what the hell if these guys worked for me it would be there last conservatory they would be fitting.
Filling the end of the rafter with silicone seals the end of the rafter which should act as a channel to let any water capillary action or jetted in with hose to naturally flow back out into your guttering.
This silicone will be the reason why your roof is leaking through the rafter bolts as your pic your rafters are filling up.
My advice would be take all rafter end caps off to check if blocks are fitted.
If ends have been sealed with silicone then this needs removing and blocks fitting correctly which will need a complete reglazing of the roof to do it correctly. The rafter caps are aluminium which come off quite easily take one off and see for yourself they just knock back on when your done with a mallet.
Also another thing to point out you have active blue glass ! There should be no silicone at all near the outer coating of the glass as it will ruin it.
And 1 final point the manager is correct you should not be jetting the roof with anything like a hose your just driving water into it



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Old 09-03-2018, 01:23   #24
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He only got it fitted nov so not had a summer yet . As said above all should have glass stops there left and right and when rafter cap is off. There should be a nylon wedge shaped packer which stops any left and right movement . They actually slides down between the glass and the glass stop u can see in your pic . If nuts are not tight then the whole bar can slide down . This has already happened . Internal trim won’t move as bolts drop through a whole in it . But bar can just slide down if bolts are not tight or bar was not being pushed up correctly in the first place
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:00   #25
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Composed a letter

Quote:
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1 final point the manager is correct you should not be jetting the roof with anything like a hose your just driving water into it
Hi Daz, come on, don't you think thats just stupid? - I have a high level of logical common sense Just to clarify I used a hose pipe to spray high up in to the air and on to the house and used gravity to simulate rain. Does that clear why i mentioned that?

Hi Gav,

Using yours and Daz's advice I have compiled a letter which i will be handing over to the manager later.

https://spaces.hightail.com/space/fPJB3sVqz7

Please let me know if I've missed anything? other than I would like a refund
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:22   #26
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Had quick read , this proves my biggest fear . Glass is not fitting into roof correctly , ridge beads packing out from the wall at top to square up as I guessed . This will always cause issues on any square sealed unit . Siliconing doen bead onto glass is a bodge and will not adhere to active blue glass for long and as mentioned by daz damage surface layer which has an oil on
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:27   #27
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At a guess I would also bet that if a level was placed on ridge from inside it won’t be level the front will be lower . This again will be due to roof bein out of square . By pushing back out from wall at top ( ridge ) this will push front of ridge up . Correctly packing glass during installation will stop any movement in the future . Good luck
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Old 09-03-2018, 15:51   #28
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had a a very long meeting with the MD not the service manager and he was very keen on all of the points raised and acknowledged the problem and they will re-do the work and supply new parts (ring beam, bar, glass, lead) he was suprised (thanks to you both) that i was able to educate him about things such as using silicon on the active blu and squaring and flashing. he even called the fitter to stop what his doing and come over did he look worried is an understatement to explain why parts were missing, glass wasnt square and apparently he put a 3" lip on the leading and he used silicone on the top caps as a precaution lol i told him that every problem cant be resolved with silicone and that if there is a leak it needs investigation. The MD said he will reply in writing for my records everything we discussed that will make it right and us happy and genuinely think they will sort it out.



Again i would like to thank you Gav and Daz will all my heart as it has helped to light up the dark tunnel i was walking through. ill be sure to buy you both a drink and and a meal when possible
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Old 09-03-2018, 17:43   #29
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As said im100miles away and always willing to help bro good luck
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Old 09-03-2018, 18:25   #30
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Back to ring beam length . I agree survey on 15 mm to allow for render and as said above it’s fine but I have had jobs that require 100 or 50 mm . All trims internally r pre cut . Point I’m making is when I survey I would stipulate roof start point and a void to make sure trims fit
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