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Evo 6 tme lhd – work log

42K views 188 replies 39 participants last post by  Pushpex 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

New in the world of Mitsubishis, I bought an Evo 6 TME in red, was my dream car when it came out, finally managed to buy one. It is 100% standard, and I will keep it this way!

It needs a good service tho, so I am in the hunt for good service parts (filters, oil, spark plugs, timing belt, etc.), to make her good for next spring!





Cheers.
 
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#97 · (Edited)
Few updates:

2.75" M2 Motorsport elbow: looks good, but fitting is CRAP. Cannot fit the downpipe as the distance between the 2 holes on the elbow are not right, so had to enlarge them. Then there a stud on the turbine housing that needs cutting as it would hit the elbow. I know it was cheap, but did they ever try to fit it on the car before selling them?

Eibach wheel spacers: didn't fit over the Ross Sport hubs, as the hubs are not 67mm, but actually 69mm at one point, so I had to machine a bit the inside of the spacers. Not happy, but couldn't find a better solution.

I am gonna fit the Innovate LC-2 wideband, just need to find a ECU pin where to hook the LC-2 output so I can read it in Evoscan.

Otherwise the car is now running.
 
#98 ·
So the car is running well, I still have few minor issues with it tho:

1) Replaced the throttle body seals, but guess what: they still leak when I force laterally on the shaft. Don't really know what to do, its not major, and honestly a lateral movement on this shaft is unlikely, but its annoying.

2) Still have that nasty knock in what I think is the steering rack over some random bumps. Haven't had the chance yet to investigate, but surely its a known problem. Bit scary sometimes. I had all the rods and rod ends replaced last year, but it didn't solve the issue.

I fitted the LC-2 and it works fine, gonna fit the GM 3bar map sensor I bought as well as the 3 port boost control solenoid and have a bit of a play with fuel and timing maps on Evoscan and see how it goes. Replaced the old and tired boost circuit hoses with Samco ones just to make sure the engine can perform at its best.

"Bad" point with this car is that on open roads its impossible to test its cornering capabilities without putting myself/the car/someone in danger. Its just too fast. Road was damp this morning and on few slow corners the car was all over the place. The AYC makes the car a bit unpredictable, but its also most probably because I don't have much experience with it driving at the limit. Will have to go on a circuit next year to really see where the limit is at. Finally, if anyone cars, I weighted the car at 1392kg with full tank.

For this year I really want to sort out the steering rack (?) issue, and optimize the engine before adding more power, which means I will also be fitting a COP kit, and swap the battery and airbox position to get rid of the twisty factory air intake. I also want to get an uprated front diff (advice needed here, I thought about the Quaife ATB option but not sure) and eventually replace the discs/pads by something a bit better, but not by something that is too noisy or dusty!

And here is a pic of today:



Love the car. And I always get signs of appreciation by people on the road! :mhihi:
 
#101 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! :) babou you brave taking your car on the Nordschleife. I would be too scared someone crashing into my car (or making a mistake haha).

I actually have an open front diff (my Evo 6 TME is GSR model but with manual AC, electric windows, big brembos), which causes me (among things) corner exit understeer (before AYC kicks in).
 
#102 · (Edited)
Ok so I decided to take the car out for a chassis inspection/wash, and here are the pictures after the wash (its dripping water):























It was already that clean before the wash. All were taken with the flash on purpose, just to better see the rust. Now what I see isn't bad, just surface rust I would say, however please feel free to let me know your opinion!

The reason I'm posting this is that I want to start driving the car in winter, which means here, salt :mad: and snow :coolsm: .

At one point I want to strip down to bare metal, but its too soon for that. I've done some research and I found out that I should just spray some Dinitrol to protect the chassis, but I need advice here. I won't drive the car all winter, just few times, but I want to protect what I think is a very good chassis!

Please share your honest opinion, don't be scared to say if things are bad!

Many thanks! :)
 
#104 ·
Alright! What would be a good course of action from here?

1) Remove all underneath but keep front end
2) Strip to bare metal and inspect for potential rust going through the inside
3) If rust through remove interior, otherwise leave it
4) Apply rust bullet, seam seal, cavity wax
5) Paint
6) Put everything back?
 
#105 ·
I would agree with this ^^^^^^

I was looking at the photos and at first, i was thinking that doesn't look too bad, but then i was thinking if i was you i would start to clean it up as it is starting to get a little bad in places. When i say bad i don't mean bad, as bad is "a lot" worse than that. I mean thats a better than average clean car all said and done, but it needs cleaning up sooner rather than later otherwise you just create a lot of work for your self later.

But life is not ideal and so see here at my thread if you want to push on and drive ...

Cavity Waxing ... https://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=506243&page=6

Through to undersealing... https://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=506243&page=10
 
#107 · (Edited)
Thanks guys!

The smartest thing would not to be driving the car this winter, so I won't. I don't drive the car much anyway during the year unfortunately, so I think this can stay for another year.

Winter 2020-2021 would then see all front, rear, inside of the car out, to strip to bare metal the whole underside and the engine bay. Car paint is great so I won't touch it. Interior is great too, so will leave it. However, while everything is out, might forge the engine to take a bit more power in the future, and powder coat all mechanical parts, take care of the rusted bolts etc.

Just throwing out ideas here, as I cannot do it this winter, I will have time to think about it and make a proper plan.

:)
 
#108 ·
Woke up early to have empty roads, managed to do few pulls using Virtualdyno. I did them in 3rd gear with correct tyre size and gear ratio, all rest of Virtualdyno parameter default, here are the results (I didn't use the exact same stretch of road, but they were all pretty much flat):



And because I woke up so early I could see the sun rise, perfect occasion to take few pictures. Here is a try at a HDR photo:



Next step will be fitting 3 port boost solenoid to try to improve turbo spool, and a GM 3 bar map sensor. Then I will turn the boost up a bit and see what happens!

Happy! :)
 
#110 · (Edited)
Had a bit of a surprise today while removing the intake hose to fit the 3 port boost solenoid:



Turbo has some axial and radial play. Nothing too bad, I don't have oil consumption or smoke, and car is making great power so its not on its last leg, but I don't think oil there is normal :cry: Its quite artistic however haha. I planned to rebuild the engine end of next year, so this turbo will probably get replaced then

As for the 3 port boost solenoid, I didn't notice any improvement in turbo spool. Quite surprised actually considering what I've read or heard. Even with wastegate duty at 100% until 3500rpm the boost curve is the same as with the factory solenoid. :confused:

P.S.: What would be a safe boost to run the car at? I am running 1.1bar at the moment.
 
#112 ·
Ran into 2 issues with the car last weekend:

1) Removed the suspension to replace it, and found out that the 2 front top mounts have play in them. They are Ralliart items I fitted 2 years ago. They have about 3000km in them. Is it normal? :mad:

2) I have a seized component using the auxiliary belt. Either alternator, bearing, pas pump, or ac compressor. When turning the engine on I hear loud and bad hissing noise, smell rubber, and battery light goes on. Will have to investigate which component failed :wallbang:

Not a good end of the season!
 
#115 ·
What suspension are you fitting to it? Would of thought top mounts be fine,little play?
Lot of pulleys on the aux belt side,tensioners can be bad for seizing up and also the water pump pulleys crack,not a bad idea to replace that to for peace of mind.Bottom pulleys also fail.Just have to strip it down and see.

Did you do anything with your plan to underseal the car?
 
#119 ·
Small exhaust yes because of legality here. And I would think 2.75" should be able to cope well with 400bhp.

Regarding the intercooler and piping, I have seen people running factory parts with same power figures that I'm looking for so I think it doesn't really need changing. I don't want to change parts "just because", so please feel free to add your inputs to what I wrote! :) I don't have as much experience as you guys on Evos.
 
#120 ·
Regarding the issue with the aux belt slipping, and potentially having something seized up, I found out that the belt is just not tight enough :confused:

The tensioner is fully "released" and yet the belt is not tight, and therefore slipping. :confused:

Everything seems to be in place, nothing seized up, but its weird.
 
#122 · (Edited)
Well, I'm baffled. I've just replaced the aux belt tensioner (MD355488) and when placing the aux belt as the picture below, it won't tension enough:





The tensioner goes its full stroke but the belt is still loose. Any idea what could be the problem? :wallbang:

EDIT: I've noticed a portion of the pulley is missing! Problem solved! :blah:
 
#124 · (Edited)
Well, now it seems kind of obvious, isn't it:



Still wondering how on earth did the missing part fell off without breaking or taking out the aux belt. Well, it broke in 2 parts and fell off but that's... remarkable.

:mhihi:

Took the car out, now on std Evo 6 suspension (so 10mm higher than stock TME) while waiting for my uprated one to be installed. Having issues with it at the moment.



The ride is really not good. Car is too high, too soft, and geometry not made for this 10mm height increase, but that will do for now. I know its not very exciting but its all I can post here for now. Oh and I've put new discs and pads all around, as expected it breaks fantastic, and no vibrations! :)
 
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