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Evo V resto.

6K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  felix2566 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

Been a bit of a lurker on here since I bought my first Evo, silver Evo 5 in 2017.

It was previously owned by a member on here, this is the original for sale thread. I didn't buy it from the original owner or the guy who bought it in that thread.

https://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=478986

When I bought it, it was pretty much in the same state as the advert.

I took it straight to Lee at Dynotech. The seller had tried to convince me it was making good power, but I wasn't convinced......it made about 260 at the first run. They did their best with what the engine was fitted with. I drove home with a safe 300 odd and a long list if things to sort before trying to get the best out of the engine.

I will post some pictures of what I started with and the progress to bring it up to date once I've worked out how to attach images......
 
#3 ·
So, initially the guys at Dynotech gave me a list of things to fix.
Exhaust manifold was cracked and a really cheap one, so replaced it.
While I was in there had the turbo rebuilt by Owen developments, not much was left original, was heavily worn. The intercooler pipe work was made from bits of exhaust pipe. So made up some proper aluminium pipes. Lots of wiring needed tidying up and old immobiliser was removed. Loads of the electrical connectors were bizarrely missing their metal spring retainers and would obviously keep falling off.

I wasn't keen on the styling of the car, much prefer the standard look. Took off the carbon cill extenders, aftermarket front bumpers and headlights.

Had to replace the springs in the waste gate so it would actually stay shut......

Then about 6 months later I made another trip to Dynotech to get it mapped again. After a few hours work they worked their magic and the car was producing a safe 520 bhp, 475ftlbs at 1.7 bar.

To say I was happy was an understatement, car was transformed. Such a fun car to drive, just makes me smile when ever I'm in it!

Lee did say that being a GSR, the diff was now living on borrowed time........I think we can all see where this is going.....
 
#5 · (Edited)
Few pictures that were in the original post.
There was a lot of wiring in the engine bay to sort out and tidy. Removed the after market catch can and header tank, prefer a more OEM look.

Bought an original front bumper. Did the prep work on it and had it painted up. The bumper brackets and mesh grills were all sand blasted and powdercoated black.



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#8 ·
Thanks, there is more to come, will post some more this evening.

it is by far the most fun car I have driven, so engaging, great feel of what is going on. That was with rubbish dampers and old bushes, hope to have it back on the road next week after nearly 2 years....excited to see what it is like!
 
#9 · (Edited)
So once the car was reasonably sorted and mapped for the 2nd time by the guys at Dynotech I drove it around for a year or so pretty much problem free, just changed the oil and put lots of fuel in it, then one day driving home the rear diff decided it had had enough and wanted to see the outside world for a change.........

Had to slowly drive in 2wd home.....

So that went in the bin and an RS diff was bought with drive shaft and mounting bars. The seller told me it had been rebuilt by a relatively reputable garage. I wanted to be certain of its condition so sent it to Clive. Strangely enough it had never been apart and was pretty much an open, US spec diff........Clive then built it up properly with the maximum amount of plates inside. It will be a bit clunky at slow speed but that's not what it for right??

I don't have any photos of the diff to hand, but we know what an RS diff looks like.



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#10 · (Edited)
At this point with the diff off the car it was pretty obvious that the chassis rails would need changing.

I had already decided before then that I was going to give it a bit of a resto underneath and had been slowly collecting Ralliart bushes for everything, new hardware for all the subframe and suspension arms, propshaft etc.

To try and keep some level of costs under control I bought a complete evo 8 floor with perfect condition chassis rails and full set of suspension arms.

I then cut/drilled the floor off the chassis rails to leave them in a condition for them to be fitted to the car. They were sand blasted and primered before fitting to make sure they were as good as possible before going on. This took quite a few days, but saved me quite a bit of money compared to buying brand new rails.

I had the rails fitted by a well-known, on here, business. The chassis rail fitting I am very happy with. There are some as yet unresolved issues with the condition of the 'restored' floor which I'm hoping to resolve with them once the car is road worthy.



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#13 · (Edited)
So before I put anything back onto the car I have been slowly refurbishing everything I can.

Calipers were sent off to Bigg Red for refurb/rebuild. Really great job they have done on them. Sorry for the crap picture quality, but the callipers are plain silver with a clear lacquer over them and the decals



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#14 · (Edited)
Next up, prop shaft, both bearings needed to be changed and one of the UJs was notchy so they got changed too. All mitsi parts.

I pin punch marked all the joints so it was all aligned the same once I put it all back together again. Had it an powdercoated too.



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#16 · (Edited)
Rear subframe and diff support bars got the same treatment as the rest....Bit of a theme here.

Yes I know I'm working outside on the car, but I don't have a car garage big enough to fit it in and store/prepare parts. So built a car port between the house and the garage. So it's pretty well protected from the weather. Just the best I can do right now....



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#17 ·
Drive shafts had a total rebuild too. The RS shafts don't have ABS rings on them. I wanted to retain this feature, so swapped out the original GSR ends onto the new RS shafts.

I split them down to be powdercoated. Got the best match green for the ends. The rubber gaitors were in great shape so reused them.

Clive W recommended the grease that I used. GKN-MS9U025 for the tripod end and GKN-MS9U024 for the CV end.

Was way too messy to take any pics of the assembly process. The grease gets flipping everywhere how every many rags you use. I'm sure there is a clever way of getting the balls into the CV but I don't know what it is.....happy not to do it again!



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#18 ·
The dampers that came with the car were an old and pretty worn out set of Teins. Way to hard for my liking.

Two options from what I could see, Onlins or Bilsteins. Budget wouldn't stretch as far as Ohlins. Plus the car will be 99% a road car so couldn't justify them.

I managed to pick up a set of 2nd hand but un used Bilsteins. Added a set of Eibach Pros from Ross Sport, new ralliart top mounts and rubbers. Powdercoated the part between the spring and the top mounts and assembled.



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#19 ·
Fuel tank had similar treatment. Cleaned, rust removed, painted.

The fuel pump housing and rigid hoses on my car had been butchered to fit an aftermarket fuel pump. I'm guessing that to get the pump housing out of the tank without dropping the tank the tidied pipes are cut to allow the housing out the tank and through the hatch in the floor. This means that there are 2 short bits of rubber hose joining the remains of the rigid pipe together. Predictably they started to leak.....not good enough for me. Surprisingly hard to find undamaged units with decent pipes. Plus found out that the E6 and E5 ones are not the same....assuming what I was sent was an E6 assembly.

The fuel filler pipe was totally rotten. Ordered a new one through Amayama. Have used them several times for bit for the evo. Really top service every time. All genuine Mitsubishi parts. I wasn't very happy with the paint finish, looked like it had been done with a rattle can, was super thin. So had it powdercoated too. I also didn't like the idea of the protective guards allowing loads of water and road debris to sit under them and start to rot things again. I used a sealant from work to seal all these gaps and hopefully prolong it's life a bit longer.

All the rubber hoses, pump and sender gaskets are new OEM.



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#20 ·
Rear uprights were stripped down, bearings replaced with SKF units from Autodoc. I didn't see the point in paying a premium for bearing with the drive flange pressed into them. I can easily do them myself.

Brake backing plates were powdercoated too.

All the hardware used on the car is either original stuff that I had treated and replated or new OEM stuff.



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#21 ·
Ive reached the image upload limit for Tapatalk. Will finish updating the thread in Jan when Im allowed to. All the restoration work was started in Sept 2019 and is pretty much complete. Hopefully this week I will get the last few jobs done for the MOT which are bleed the brakes, oil change and fix the rear fog light.
 
#23 ·
Making huge progress mate. Nice one :)

I left the guards off my filler pipe completely, I thought the same as you.. they are just a moisture trap
Cheers, yes,I can see why they fitted them, but is asking for a rust trap to form.
I have been working on it on and off over the year. Will do a load and the have to take a break, gets a bit much! I have always wanted to do a resto of this level, but never had the time and money to do one. Learning as I go.

Have laid it out in a much more organised way on here than it was in actual life. Work on some parts while waiting for other bits etc. Or get distracted by new shiney parts you want to put together!

I have only restored up to the front fire wall, apart from front dampers and callipers. Front will have to wait a bit, want to drive it now. I think when I do the front I will be a lot more organised in terms of sending parts away for powder coating all in one go, making lists of parts I need to buy while I am stripping it down etc to make the process a bit more streamlined.
 
#32 ·
Yes was very happy it passed the test. Not driven it much since. Been chasing an annoying miss fire.

Think I've traced it to cam position sensor. Not driven it yet. But running it stationary it seems way better! Fingers crossed

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