New Evo IX Owner - Compression Test Results Not Good!!!

[famz]

I am not really shocked nor surprised at that 'comprehensive report'. Is now even a report on huge BHP and money instead.

The cost of purchasing an IX MR at that low mileage aint worth it if you are to overhaul the engine already. Unless you intended to do so from the onset regardless of current state. Refund is what I would be promptly demanding. No ifs no buts. Alternatively seller offsets costs to overhaul that engine to an acceptable state.

Was in this position at the end of last year and I even took pictures for reference.

Your compression figures are similar to my own wet test results and mine were after more than a decade of use.

I wouldn't trust them bore scope images as they tend to exaggerate the depth and size of small things (debris looked huge in them).

If those compression figures are wet test, then the dry ones are horrible. Mine were 90+2 across the four cylinders.

The car drove alright usually but lacked power. The BOV, that usual emphatic oomph was gone.
Oil consumption was 0.5 litre across a service cycle and the vibrations on high load were what made me overhaul it.
Well that and a grandpa in a skoda passing me and angrily gesturing at me to move over :-O

I got quoted for those silly amounts by almost all garages and they even lost interest when I said I am looking to return the engine to OEM spec.

Those amounts quoted, I considered these as cheaper and better options for me:-

- Import 2 clean engines from Japan
- Rebuild my current engine myself x4 attempts with the added bonus of owning engine building tools and valuable experience at the end
- Import another MR and get rid of the current one
- Start with option 2 and then if at least attempt 2 is successful then switch to a new block on attempt 3, new crankshaft, new pistons

Option 2 and 4 and I don't regret my choice so far.

In the end the engine was to my pleasant surprise still within spec and only these really needed to be addressed:-

- Carbon deposits on valves and seats (they were non existent)
- Worn out piston rings
- Slight glazing at the bottom(piston slap area)

[Dave-Cee]

If you really love the car this is what you should do.

Purchase a decent usable ix motor a short engine will do to get you back on the road and run it as stock.

Put the other engine aside for now.

Enjoy your car, get some use out of it and then if you decide to go for the forged route etc, you have your original engine to build at leisure.

It's a win win situation.

[Corsica13]

Thanks for all your replies, I appreciate all the feedback given.

In regards to purchasing another stock engine, I don't really have the knowledge to do the work myself or more importantly, the time, so most of those options aren't really feasible for me.

I went for a second opinion and had another leak down carried out, the result was very similar give or take.

Therefore the next stage is to strip the engine and as of now I'm working with the seller to have this work carried out, either the engine will be rebuilt and brought back to healthy "Stock" form or potentially forge the engine and upgrade some of the components.

I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome and developments.

Thanks again!

[plip1953]

Originally Posted by Corsica13

I went for a second opinion and had another leak down carried out, the result was very similar give or take.

Was any attempt made during this second test to pinpoint whats'really causing the leakage ie valves, rings etc

But in general I think the course of action you are now following is the right one, and I very much hope you get a good outcome :-)

[RaeTurbo]

Originally Posted by plip1953

Was any attempt made during this second test to pinpoint whats'really causing the leakage ie valves, rings etc

But in general I think the course of action you are now following is the right one, and I very much hope you get a good outcome :-)

Indeed, makes me wonder why they’re not trying to find the answer, surely the more you know the better and if it is just a couple of valves need lapping in the engine can stay in the car.

[rayquan.camaron]

Originally Posted by Corsica13

Hello all,

I've recently purchased a new Evo IX MR FQ-360 which Nox Vidmate VLC I'm super happy with but having just taking it to 'Auto Torque' up in Oxford, they've carried out an exhaustive health check, of which a compression test is included. The results are as follows:

Piston 1: 10.5 Bar / 152 PSi
Piston 2: 10.5 Bar / 152 PSi
Piston 3: 8.5 Bar / 123 PSi
Piston 4: 10.5 Bar / 152 PSi

They have confirmed that by using a Bore Camera, they can see some scoring on the inside of the Bore Housing on Piston 3 which has an alarmingly low pressure.

The car has done 22k miles, they have also confirmed that the rest of the car is in very good condition but it's likely it's been pushed hard in it's short life.

It's worth noting that the car has been re-mapped with 3 maps:

1.2 Bar - Low Boost
1.5 Bar - Medium Boost
1.7 Bar - High Boost

I believe the re-mapping was done at around 10k miles.

I was wondering what anyone else's experience is with Evo IX's and their engines running low compression?

From research and speaking with Auto Torque, they suggested the compression should be reading around 12.5 Bar / 181 PSI.

Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

it would be good to know what approach they took, what the results were when they diagnosed it and what they did to fix it plus the cost, would be great to have this kind of information.